Td4 Lack of power at 70mph - fixed !

MollyNomad said:

This 'owner' has, in the past not wanted to pay for 'genuine' parts...He still has to replace a weak battery that has been evident through several videos(filmed over several months)

'Bodges' are NEVER the ideal, if it was a sponsored channel whereby '****Part' or Bearmach were providing sponsorship sure I could understand that a brand new part would be used but as Leon(thats 'Bodgit and Legit BTW) has stated in most of his videos the client wants his vehicle back as soon as possible and doesn't want to pay through the nose for genuine parts(or wait for them to turn up) Whilst that garage isn't on the moon, it does serve a small community at the end of the earth in the Rep of Ireland...Now I would guess that genuine LR parts are 30 percent more there than they are in the UK and postage to the R of I is very expensive....you won't get many 'working' clients opting for a weeks delay in getting their car back nor paying a premium for parts. With regards to the 'right way' to change filter or access it I think you'll find that Leon used a lift....so why go through the wheel arch as a mere 'pleb' would. I would be a 'pleb' as I have a Halfords jack and some axle stands....That car was fixed...end of!!

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I'm with Nodge on the pipe replacement/repair. I've replaced those pipes with silicone on three cars and never had a problem getting the old one off so no idea why he made such a big deal of it. He probably charged more for labour than the pipe would have cost, even in ROI as Freelanders are very common there.
As for going through the wheel arch the reason for doing that is it the correct way to do it. You have full access to the cradle that holds the pump and filter. I watched his video and copied his method the first time I replaced a filter and it was a pig of a job, second time I went through the wheel arch and it was 10 times easier and twice as quick.

Alibro said:

I'm with Nodge on the pipe replacement/repair. I've replaced those pipes with silicone on three cars and never had a problem getting the old one off so no idea why he made such a big deal of it. He probably charged more for labour than the pipe would have cost, even in ROI as Freelanders are very common there.
As for going through the wheel arch the reason for doing that is it the correct way to do it. You have full access to the cradle that holds the pump and filter. I watched his video and copied his method the first time I replaced a filter and it was a pig of a job, second time I went through the wheel arch and it was 10 times easier and twice as quick.

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Roger that, it's good to know as I will be doing that next week. I don't doubt he would charge for labour, thats his 'business' and there is little in the way of 'profit' in parts. Regards the 'correct way to do' there is a tendency towards dogma in many walks of life. Rather than a correct way there is a 'better' way of doing things. I can imagine that having a 'lift' could actually make it more dfficult to complete a task, as in you may be drawn into having to use it!!...Luckily I don't have a lift so will be using trolley jack, axle stands and an old bit of cardboard myself and hopefully having a successful outcome. Hence my membership to this site. Whilst we seem to condemn mechanics and technicians on a daily basis(GUILTY!!) on here maybe we should understand that every car/car manufacturer/enthusiastic nerdy forum geek(Thats me!!) will have a set 'way' of doing things. No doubt, a Landy specialist, who may have been trained at the factory would carry out the procedures as per 'their' protocol.....someone who works on a multitude of vehicle types may have a different approach based on their experience and facilities. I myself have expereinced this whilst working on cars, only to find out that my way was in no way the best way of doing it. I doubt there is a 'generic' mechanic on the planet who subscribes to forums and the 'what not' on every procedure. Youtube has a comment section that many 'armchair mechanics/keyboard warriors' post their 'tuppence worth'..most of which is ****e BUT many do make suggestions on better procedures and generally these are acknowledged by the 'mechanic/technician' as a better way of doing things 'the next time'. This forum has the benefit of many experienced Freelander owners who have alot more experience and knowledge on that vehicle than most....hence why I am here. I LOVE reading members posts on here and because Freelanders are inherently 'rubbish'(Thats a joke) and I was stupid enough to buy one for my daughter (that, maybe isn't a joke? :-S) I would do well do 'heed' the advice given on here of how to do things a 'better' way....

Your right, Mechanics won't have time to research correct methods for every job they do so are bound to do some things the hard way.
As for the fuel filter, if you take out the two scrivets on the RHS of the wheel arch, the liner should pull out of the way and you can old it back with a bungy. From memory there are two bolts holding the cradle which will probably break. I think you can get away with just removing one and bending the bracket but don't quote me on that. Good luck with replacing it as they really are a pig to change.

Alibro said:

Your right, Mechanics won't have time to research correct methods for every job they do so are bound to do some things the hard way.
As for the fuel filter, if you take out the two scrivets on the RHS of the wheel arch, the liner should pull out of the way and you can old it back with a bungy. From memory there are two bolts holding the cradle which will probably break. I think you can get away with just removing one and bending the bracket but don't quote me on that. Good luck with replacing it as they really are a pig to change.

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I'm hoping for an easy time I think 'my' Freelander was owned by a hairdresser before me so I don't think it's been offroad and has had a fairly easy life. In reality I will no doubt be swearing/cussing bending and breaking things but hopefully not 'bodging' on my way to a successful outcome. I have quite a long list of 'to do's over a 10 day period...Lets see will post some pictures if I remember and will share my woes and experiences no doubt.

So a big thanks to kungfu0210 for this thread.

Servicing the missus' 01 hippo and couldn't find the turbo vent filter anywhere. On closer inspection there's an EGR solenoid with the little black box where the filter vent pipe should be. The whole thing hanging loose and swinging around in the engine compartment where the plastic bracket had broken too.

Not only that but the 'hose 2' from vacuum to the solenoid is actually falling to bits (see pic) - no wonder it's been sluggish for a while!

Hi folks, has anyone had this happen? I have read through and couldnt find anything similar.
I have been getting intermittent power surges, the engine sounds at idle like it is hunting a bit, needle fluctuates at idle.
When I put the foot down, the engine revs powerfully then I get a diesel crack and black smoke from the exhaust.
When I am running, it seems fine and then I get a stutter, a crack, black smoke and a power surge...

The EGR has been blanked off, crankcase breather has been changed, air filter has been changed to a pipercross, oil and filter done and I have changed the fuel filter.

Anyone any ideas?

Oh, its a TD4 2004 with 120 on the clock.....

fuel sensor wiring loom??
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fuel-rail-pressure-sensor-harness-change.154473/

tlo said:

fuel sensor wiring loom??
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fuel-rail-pressure-sensor-harness-change.154473/

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Exactly what it was, stripped, cleaned and put back together, all good.....

Thanks!!

I am glad you have sorted it, on mine I did the same i.e striped and cleaned it but the problem came back. It turned out for me at least there was a break in the wire

tlo said:

I am glad you have sorted it, on mine I did the same i.e striped and cleaned it but the problem came back. It turned out for me at least there was a break in the wire

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Oh I'm sure it will return! But at least I will know what it is then, this Freelander had not really been looked after, I am replacing bits as I go along, trying to make it a wee bit more reliable....hopefully I will have it for a while....

Hello everyone,
This is my first post. I have just purchased a 2005 freelander td4.
Upon taking it on the dual carridgeway when hitting 70mph the engine malfunction light came on (engine management symbol with an exclamation mark through it) and i was limited to 70 only. When stopping the light goes off and boost returns.
I have had the fuel filter replaced, the varible boost solenoid and still no luck. Any thoughts?

Regards
T

4x4 first timer said:

Hello everyone,
This is my first post. I have just purchased a 2005 freelander td4.
Upon taking it on the dual carridgeway when hitting 70mph the engine malfunction light came on (engine management symbol with an exclamation mark through it) and i was limited to 70 only. When stopping the light goes off and boost returns.
I have had the fuel filter replaced, the varible boost solenoid and still no luck. Any thoughts?

Regards
T

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You really need to have the live fuel pressure data being displayed on a diagnostic device, while the fault is occurring. It's most likely to be the low pressure fuel pump running out of puff. A quick live data display will prove that. The low pressure fuel supply should be above a minimum of 350Kpa at all times. Ideally the low pressure fuel supply should be 380Kpa under full power. This is to ensure that the high pressure pump can never outstrip the low pressure fuel supply. If it does, then the orange ! symbol will be displayed.

Really appreciate your advice, will try and update.
Seems im not the only one who has had this issue.
Thanks again

Wullie Simpson said:

Exactly what it was, stripped, cleaned and put back together, all good.....

Thanks!!

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Wullie, Just reading your comment regards your problem. My TD4 has several running issues that crop up from time to. time and have seen that you 'striped out', clean and replaced your 'fuel pressure regulator harness'. Was that a relatively easy job and how long did it take? Any issues you encountered? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for this thread, Kungfu. Been scouring the site for an answer to my issue and I'm hoping I've found it here!

Basically I noticed a slight noise, almost like a rubbing sound, a couple of days ago. Yesterday when I was on my way home from London I was struggling to get any acceleration from any gear past around 2000 revs. When I got on to the motorway at first I could just about get to 60, but nothing more. Every now and then it seemed to kick in and full acceleration was there, so I was able to overtake some lorries, then it would immediately cut out again and speed would drop back to 55-60, and the lorry drivers must have been slightly confused as they overtook!

Towards the end of the trip it started working fine again, and I had power in all gears. I'm thinking this means is likely not something more serious? Anyone think of any other possibilities before I order a new solenoid?

Oh I'm 04 TD4 btw, and have recently replaced fuel filters, EGR is blanked, etc

Well it wasn't the solenoid so back to the drawing board

ursinecotcher said:

Well it wasn't the solenoid so back to the drawing board

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It's probably the fuel rail sensor or its harness corroded.

Any update? I've got a 03TD4 thats doing something very similar. As soon as I get to about 52mph, the power just drops out.
Fuel filter is my next little project to see if that helps.
Strange when it does it, there's no engine warning light or fault codes showing up through the OBD.

Sadly yes. Had a couple of days of work in London and thought it would be OK for a couple of days as still had no warning lights and it was fine running as long as I didn't try to go over 55. Got to London fine. Next day I had to go from SE to NE and just as I was approaching the Rotherhithe Tunnel the fuel warning light came on, driving into the tunnel I lost all power, and right in the middle of the tunnel it cut out completely. Luckily the guy stuck behind me was a fairly burly chap so we managed to push it up on to the pavement so it wasn't completely blocking the tunnel. Used the SOS phone and they said police were on their way. Took them a solid half an hour to come and tow me out and ditch me on the side of the road nearby. RAC then took nearly 4 hours to turn up. I told him I thought it might be the fuel rail sensor, and thats what it showed when he plugged it in, but he eventually managed to get some revs going and there was a load of white smoke billowing from the rear right. Towed me to a garage where they had it for a couple of days and diagnosed the actual fuel pump. Being away from home and stuck in a garage I was kind of helpless, so had to suck it up and pay the £475.

My advice to anyone with this issue would be to get it sorted ASAP and not try driving it around like an idiot thinking it will be fine for another couple of days!