TD4 Crankcase Filter

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changed my crankcase filter today to the BMW one as mentioned in previous posts. Anyone notice any real benefits except for stopping the extreme oil blowouts?
 
the only benefit is that you no longer have to renew filters.....

And thus avoiding the risk of breaking off one of the plastic overflow pieces (as some members had in the past) which are to be removed in order to take the cover off the filterhousing.:)
 
Managed to fit mine today. Bit of fiddling about but completely do-able :) I plumped for the full £40.42 bmw replacement part/housing/new seals off ebay. My Sport just coming up to 40K but the old filter very black and gooey. (see pic). What with the egr cleaned out and some Millers ecomax fed in to the tank I'm expecting to stall a lot less :)

Failing that, will actually bin the egr valve for the bypass.


Many thanks to those who have gone before, made it a brains-free operation (nearly dropped an alan key down the back of the engine though!).

Good feeling to be hands on with my beastie...er, my car ;)


Cool!! :clap:
 

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So this egr valve causes mpg issues, engine stalling and excessive smoke from the exhaust by any chance. Only saying this as my landy absolutely stinks atm, stalls whenever it bloody well wants and I seriously need to tow a trailer full of diesel behind me as it has a serious drink problem!!!
 
So this egr valve causes mpg issues, engine stalling and excessive smoke from the exhaust by any chance. Only saying this as my landy absolutely stinks atm, stalls whenever it bloody well wants and I seriously need to tow a trailer full of diesel behind me as it has a serious drink problem!!!

Are we possibly a little confused here?? The EGR valve and the crankcase filter (or oil separator, as BMW call it) are two different things.

Cleaning the EGR or better still, throwing it away and fitting a by-pass, plus the BMW vortex, cyclone part will reduce smoke and improve mpg.

Neither of these items are in the LandRover service schedule.

Turbo hoses need checking for splits too.
 
When I fit the new BMW vortex to mine, I stripped the valve housing down to see what was in there.
The round lid is held on with spring clips, only one way it can fit due to clip positions.
All that's in there is a spring and a diaphragm with the valve seat and face underneath, again only one way it can fit.
Simple job to strip, clean, inspect, and reassemble.
 
When I fit the new BMW vortex to mine, I stripped the valve housing down to see what was in there.
The round lid is held on with spring clips, only one way it can fit due to clip positions.
All that's in there is a spring and a diaphragm with the valve seat and face underneath, again only one way it can fit.
Simple job to strip, clean, inspect, and reassemble.

Exactly what I found - definately not worth the extra £40 to get that bit too! :D :cool:
 
The diaphragm on my crankase filter had started to perish (started to go soft and sticky) when I fitted the BMW mod so I would imagine that's why BMW recommend fitting the complete unit every 3rd or 4th service. Will get round to changing mine in the next few months.
 
Just checked my freelander. And it already has the updated bmw part already fitted. Now back to square one to see what's causing my problems.....
 
The diaphragm on my crankase filter had started to perish (started to go soft and sticky) when I fitted the BMW mod so I would imagine that's why BMW recommend fitting the complete unit every 3rd or 4th service. Will get round to changing mine in the next few months.

That's the first I've heard of this, so although it's not good news, it's good to know that it is something to check on at some future point.

Thanks for posting that info.

Happy New Year to everyone. :cool:
 
That's the first I've heard of this, so although it's not good news, it's good to know that it is something to check on at some future point.

Thanks for posting that info.

Happy New Year to everyone. :cool:
Pleasure, mileage was 103,000 though so lower mileage cars should not be a problem.
 
Hi
I purchased a BMW crankcase oil separator based on the excellent information on this thread. I too also needed to cut a small slot in proximity to the existing one in the mod kit to enable it to align with the slot in the Freelander's existing plastic chamber assembly. However, I erroneously put aside the three gaskets supplied; two irregular and one 'O' ring. I disregarded (but fortunately didn't bin) the irregular ones because the ones in situ looked OK. But, in my haste I overlooked fitting the supplied 'O' ring. The mod kit (less 'O' ring) is now in place as are the covers etc, etc...
Can you advise where exactly this needs to be fitted - I do not want to road test my Freelander TD4 until I am sure this is fitted correctly. Glad I re-checked the forum threads before I cranked it over!). I have also undertaken a full service and can wait a day or so before I use the vehicle. Hope you can help.
Mike
 
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