Freelander 1 TD4 (completed) & V6 (completed) Rebuild Projects

The donor Td4 gracefully gave up its power unit this evening. Included are some pictures of the disconnections I made to keep it simple. Note that another person had already removed IRD and gearbox so we start from that point !
Remove 2 couplers from the electronics box and the cable clips.
Remove 2 connections from battery lead to fuse box. This saves firking about in the engine taking off leads.
Remove flow and return fuel lines.

Remove 2 water pipe connections at bulkhead.
Remove PAS hoses, you could wait, lift the engine and remove PAS pump and leave connected - saves a fluidy mess but this is the donor car !
Remove header hose.
Remove PAS hose bracket from lifting lug on engine.
Attach crane with secure chain and lifting shackles. Remove exhaust to turbo bolts -no picture as we all know how to do that and I couldn't be arsed to get underneath with camera !
When all securely fastened on the crane remove RHS engine mounting. Jack is under engine supporting gearbox missing mount.
Start to lift looking carefully for any connections missed. Arrrr - there it is - the brake servo hose ! Remove quickly and lift.
Safely up and out - tight fit against bonnet - could remove bonnet or alternator to provide an easier time. Stretched bonnet to max with a bit of wood (a Nodge mod) to gain just enough access to exit the engine bay.

So - what does this engine look like when out? Air filter not too bad, turbo filter has probably never been changed, EGR is a mess !

And for those of you who wake in the night wondering what the bits of your TD4 that you can't see look like:

Eagle eyed will have spotted that the crank pulley and belts and air con unit had been removed prior to this work. I simply removed the air con and left if floating and took the bottom pulley and belts off to try to remedy my car with the rattle before deciding to do the engine swap.

So to end this evening's session, some questions !
How to clean the engine - mostly mud and little oil (which is good) - don't want to fill it all with water - steam ??
What to replace as it is easier with engine out - I'm thinking HP pump, water pump, thermostat, water rail 'O' ring and then obviously EGR bypass and BMW cyclone filter mod from my current vehicle together with K & N air filter plus full service of all fluids. Any other good ideas while I can get at it - seems odd to be able to reach everything easily now - might leave it out and just mount it on a bit of polished wood to play with !!!

Couple of hours work all in - hope it goes back in as well - Dual Mass Flywheel came off a treat - anyone want it cheap ?? PM please.

See what I mean by tight !!!!

andyfreelandy said:

View attachment 153801 See what I mean by tight !!!!

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I think I'd be taking the bonnet off

I wish I had the kit, and ability to do stuff like this.

andyfreelandy said:

tight fit against bonnet - could remove bonnet or alternator to provide an easier time. Stretched bonnet to max with a bit of wood (a Nodge mod) to gain just enough access to exit the engine bay

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Good work so far.

Plenty of room with a suitable length of wood holding the bonnet up at maximum hight. I squeezed a V6 through that space and the V6 has to be at a 45° angle as it's too wide to fit between the slam panel and bulkhead.

GrumpyGel said:

I think I'd be taking the bonnet off

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No need to remove the bonnet. It's like it was designed to lift up high enough to get the engine out without removing it.
If I can squeeze in a V6, then the M47 is no problem.

andyfreelandy said:

View attachment 153801 See what I mean by tight !!!!

Click to expand...

But it fits. If you have the crane at full extension, then it'll be at a shallower angle which will help.

Brilliant work mate, you don't hang about! Looking forward to the next instalment.
That air filter is positively spotless compared to the one I took out of mine.

Thanks for all the encouragement. Any guidance or views on the questions above please??

andyfreelandy said:

How to clean the engine - mostly mud and little oil (which is good) - don't want to fill it all with water - steam ?

Click to expand...

If you have a steam cleaner, then use that. Otherwise just some Gunk and a pressure washer will do the trick. Make sure you fill any holes into the engine first.

andyfreelandy said:

I'm thinking HP pump, water pump, thermostat, water rail 'O' ring and then obviously EGR bypass and BMW cyclone filter mod from my current vehicle together with K & N air filter plus full service of all fluids

Click to expand...

I wouldn't touch the HP pump unless you have a perfect one to fit in it's place. It makes sense to replace coolant components that are hard change when the engine is installed.

andyfreelandy said:

might leave it out and just mount it on a bit of polished wood to play with !!!

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I always planned to make a coffee table out of a KV6 block. Sadly the wife had other ideas.

Nodge68 said:

If you have a steam cleaner, then use that. Otherwise just some Gunk and a pressure washer will do the trick. Make sure you fill any holes into the engine first.


I wouldn't touch the HP pump unless you have a perfect one to fit in it's place. It makes sense to replace coolant components that are hard change when the engine is installed.



I always planned to make a coffee table out of a KV6 block. Sadly the wife had other ideas.

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Bloomin wimmin! No taste.

As an interim, as I think and plan stage 2 and clean engine etc. I have cracked the 'reprogram a fob' problem raised by many. I have read (and tried - although not convinced) the many "press this, then that" type instructions and, not surprisingly, there is no easy way to fool the CCU into reading an alien fob. I guess that car parks would be more interesting places if this happened and everyone's car / fob changed places !!! Anyway, I have an old (but still available) Chinese made T300 programmer than I used on my old MGF (you could tweak the mixture settings at MOT time etc!) I found an OBD lead and followed 'programme a fob' instructions on the T300. It works and I now have a fob for the V6. Will be trying it again to check the reprogramming process is robust and can include screen shots of the process if anyone is interested.

andyfreelandy said:

I have an old (but still available) Chinese made T300 programmer than I used on my old MGF (you could tweak the mixture settings at MOT time etc!)

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That sounds like a neat tool. Will it tweak the V6 ECU too? I doubt it as it's a different setup completely. It would be nice if you could make it run a bit richer at full power. The KV6 runs a but lean for full power to be developed.

andyfreelandy said:

I found an OBD lead and followed 'programme a fob' instructions on the T300. It works and I now have a fob for the V6. Will be trying it again to check the reprogramming process is robust and can include screen shots of the process if anyone is interested

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Very useful for others to see, especially if the T300 is still available.

Had another look. The T300 can read the ECU version and date etc. It can also provide the security unlock code (can't remember what it is called). There is no other options for the engine on the Land Rover option. What Rover had the V6 fitted ? Was it a MEMS system - I could pretend it was a Rover and see what that provides!

It wasn’t MEMS but EMS2000 - the V6 was fitted to Rover 800, 45 and 75 (plus MG equivalents)

Thanks.
Some more progress today. Turned my attention to the sick Td4 and started to prepare it for the engine extraction ! Thought I'd do all the crap jobs first - there are so many to choose from ! Drained fluids, removed front prop connection and fixed safely out of the way, removed front section of exhaust - good fun with the nuts there but they gave in. Now to start the prep for the IRD removal - what a design, only need to remove this to access engine/box bolts and to the little window to disconnect the Torque Converter. If these were accessible I could leave the; front subframe, IRD and most of the front suspension in place. Before I start, just checking that this all has to come off - any shortcuts??? Can't see a way to access where I need without IRD at least coming off - did think about sitting it on the front subframe - would this give enough room to dis the box and TC ??

The failed engine will be subject to an investigation, I did drop the sump cover plate after listening to the crank being turned by hand. A nasty knock at one point, no swarf in oil or bags of nails in sump though. Sounds like crank, big end or a con rod?? Knocks and goes hard to turn, rocking the crank gives a repeated knock at the duff spot. Will conclude this when engine out - neither the time nore energy to do it first - suffice to say I have concluded an engine change is the way to go.

Meanwhile, drained fuel tank on donor car - false fed pumps and then got a filtered output to put into mine ! About 3 gallons. Will be dropping off rear subframe and tank support to use on the V6 - may as well take out the tank. Happy with progress so far and time for a break.......................advice on the above please???

If you drop the front subframe it will help big time. Also if you drop the engine first before removing the IRD it will also make life much easier for disconnecting the coolant connections.

Thanks. Planning engine out top and gearbox staying put. Will be shortening crane chain to improve clearance.

After a short break to do some other stuff - continuing on from above.................spent far too long trying to undo an IRD bolt (see separate thread) but now have suitable wiggle extensions and also some 3/8 inch hex impact sockets on order, my 3/8 stuff is conventional multi-tooth type. So - 3 bolts loose on IRD and left this for now. Today removed starter motor, all water pipes, electrics and vacuum pipes from my car (duff TD4 engine). Used same process as removing the donor car engine (photos above). Noticed (not sure why it hadn't crossed my mind) that the auto has a cooler and some additional pipework and so have left that all in place to receive the manual donor engine.

Not sure whether the starter motor is the same in the auto and manual, but have decided to keep the auto starter as it has been used with the drive plate that I shall fit. Before fitting it I shall replace the solenoid contacts as a matter of course - it is not much fun to get out at a later date !

Have tied the air con compressor out of the way below the engine and left this connected up. Will also be removing the PAS pump and leaving that in the car complete with fluid to bolt to the replacement engine - saves mess and I know it works.

Have loosened all the engine to box bolts, one that was tricky to find top bulkhead side (once I had looked for it with my trusty camera on a flexi) was found to be missing - probably never been fitted. Have a spare from the donor car to replace it.

So, when the new tools turn up the IRD is coming off, still planning to leave it on the front subframe to remove the last engine to gearbox bolt and see if I can do this without dropping the subframe - I may regret this but if it can be done it makes a TD4 engine swap much easier (for an auto anyway). Will feedback how this goes.

Then both engines will be put side by side and will swap the newer bits from mine (alternator etc) then drop it back in.

Thanks to everyone with help on the IRD bolt problem. The starter is almost as hard to undo - for anyone doing a TD4 auto starter the bottom bolt has a nut on it and is not tapped into the gearbox casing, the top bolt is tapped into the starter motor and can be reached with a 6 inch extension from the gearbox side and a breaker bar applied quite easily.

Meanwhile sold quite a few bits off the donor 3 door 2003 to pay for all this work and new tools ! That is what it is all about - new tools for free