TD4 Clutch Bleed Tutorial

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Hi I'm new here and new to owning Land Rovers, we have a freelander TD4 diesel and cannot for the life of me find where to top up Clutch Fluid.. Please can someone help me :)
 
Hi, i have a freelander td4 2005.

Some months ago i changed the clutch , slave cylinder and this big expensive wheel that its recommendable to change when you change the clutch.
For some months everything was ok, but last month my clutch failed again(pedal touched the floor and i was unable to change gears), so i changed the master cilinder and was ok.
Now after one month its not working again(cant change gears, pedal is touching the floor) and i dont know what may be the reason
as i changed everything and replaced with new parts.

Any help will be highly appreciated!
 
awesome, just googled this as my clutch has gone light and started getting difficult to get gears at times. great pics.
 
i have had the clutch reservoir pot open before out of curiosity of what it was, perhaps i didn't make sure it was on fully, made a psshhh noise when i opened it and empty!!!!

have topped up, pumped pedal with engine running and replaced cap fully, driven up road, much smoother gear change and bite point up half inch. so seems good. will have to keep eye on it and investigate further.

any suggestions other than a possible loose cap where i need to look for possible leaks?
thanks jason
 
Master cylinder is first place to look, or behind clutch pedal in Footwell.

If they are both dry it's your slave cylinder inside bell housing!
 
i'm so happy to find a moist pedal piston lol. bell housing sounds like a whole world of pain and money lol, i can get master cylinder of scrappy car i hope, if same. otherwise its ebay. scrappy = free as i look after owners nieces pony and her niece lol
 
have got a decent master cylinder from scrap yard, £0, quick release end of pipe cut when engine removed. i've managed to release pin under resovoir pot and remove the pipe that way.

I assume once i replace the cylinder i have to bleed regardless? one i got looks quite new so result there.

have now changed the master cylinder, pedal feels different than before, not sure if good or bad but all gears engage smoothly and slightly higher bite point but like it low as often have horse trailer with ponies in and easier to pull away with a low bite point lol
 
Last edited:
also, the fluid that came out was cloudy and some black like original post, have put a 500ml bottle through, thinking of redoing but been advised if it feels ok and working ok leave it, apparantly owner shouldn't open that pot on master cylinder, little symbol which you cant see in place ! suggests not opening lol, my garage mate told me , i looked when changing it
 
I gotta say a big thanks for this tutorial. My clutch pedal hit the floor recently - I just followed these steps today, and job done in about an hour. Great advice to assemble the bits before hand (though I had to improvise on the syringe). Would guess 6mm hose its whats required, though I got away with 9mm fish tank stuff and a bastadised grommet. Once the hoses and airbox were gone, I could see where everything had been moved out of the way on previous bleeds, and got the job done easily enough. The state of the crap that came out though - wonder it worked at all!
 
Roberticus said:
I gotta say a big thanks for this tutorial. My clutch pedal hit the floor recently - I just followed these steps today, and job done in about an hour. Great advice to assemble the bits before hand (though I had to improvise on the syringe). Would guess 6mm hose its whats required, though I got away with 9mm fish tank stuff and a bastadised grommet. Once the hoses and airbox were gone, I could see where everything had been moved out of the way on previous bleeds, and got the job done easily enough. The state of the crap that came out though - wonder it worked at all!
Click to expand...


Glad it's still helping folk out :)
 
Just wanted to add my thanks for this tutorial. I've got a problem with the concentric slave - told it's definitely that by mechanic I trust - but bled the system according to the instructions and seem to have got full clutch back. Whether it will stay back is another matter, but at least I can get to the shops while I work out whether I want to empty my wallet getting it done. Incidentally, Haynes only gives three spanners for the concentric slave replacement = that seems la bit optimistic, It's a freelander TD4, so everything has to come apart to get at it. Surely not a job for a relative novice?
 
Very useful info, many thanks. First major drive (from Thurso to Aberdeen) and noticed the lower gear changes becoming increasingly 'agricultural' as the journey progressed.

I've bled the clutch and ended up with a bottle full of cloudy muck with black particulates in suspension. It took more like 20 odd pumps to end up with 200ml of old fluid. It never got to the stage where there were two separate fluid types in the bottle like the photo, just a full bottle of cloudy muck.

Clutch marginally better and the bite point a wee bit higher, but 1 and 2 are a bit tough to select once the engine is warm.

Any ideas? The master, slave, fly and clutch were all replaced at 112k - odo now at 133k. The master looks like a Britpart.
 
Last edited:
Burntweenie said:
Very useful info, many thanks. First major drive (from Thurso to Aberdeen) and noticed the lower gear changes becoming increasingly 'agricultural' as the journey progressed.

I've bled the clutch and ended up with a bottle full of cloudy muck with black particulates in suspension. It took more like 20 odd pumps to end up with 200ml of old fluid. It never got to the stage where there were two separate fluid types in the bottle like the photo, just a full bottle of cloudy muck.

Clutch marginally better and the bite point a wee bit higher, but 1 and 2 are a bit tough to select once the engine is warm.

Any ideas? The master, slave, fly and clutch were all replaced at 112k - odo now at 133k. The master looks like a Britpart.
Click to expand...

Hi have a read here may help

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/clutch-low-bite-point-again.316351/
 
hi wifes freelander 1 facelift 2005, replaced master cylinder, connected up back bled system as had to undo the quick connect union, went to pump pedal, bit of resistance and then bang, pulled the guts out of the mc into footwell,?? any ideas
 
Is the quick connect coupler joined properly? Can only think the MC was forcing fluid to a dead head and that’s why it gave
 
Hey guys i just read thru the 3 pages as i just picked up a TD4 Freelander 1998 model 2.0L my clutch does not have a bleed nipple it is a sealed unit i have pictures but how on earth can u bleed such a clutch? the last owner had just installed it it looks to be the correct slave but no bleed nipple just one hose going to the slave that runs up to the master/reservoir at the fire wall
 
Had the dreaded clutch to the floor moment yesterday after a couple of warnings last week with the pedal not retuning. Bleeding and filling seems to have fixed it for now but it looks like the problem is the master cylinder. There’s evidence of a small leak in the cockpit.However I have a problem with the master to slave connector, I’ve found that the plastic ring that needs to be pushed in to release the joint has disintegrated and there’s nothing to push in. Any idea how to disconnect the pipes or a workaround? Thanks Martin
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Lej
Discovery 2 Clutch failure
Replies
2
Views
630
Lej
Lej
P
Clutch stuck 300 tdi
Replies
13
Views
584
portokali
P
S
Trouble bleeding clutch SIIa
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
Samoth
S
J
Td4 clutch master cylinder
Replies
0
Views
816
J. glasspool
J
Paul Coddington
P38A 2.5 DT manual Clutch Slave
Replies
6
Views
403
Paul Coddington
Paul Coddington
Back
Top