TD4 Clutch Bleed Tutorial

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Hi, Theres no fill level, just make sure there its about 2/3 full and refit the cap.
It's worthwhile putting a sheet of thin card between the resevoir and the sound proofing behind it to stop crap getting in whilst your bleeding it.
i bled mine six months ago and it's been fine since. Mine had shifted to one side where it connects to the clutch pedal making it hard to get in gear and allowing clutch fluid to drip on my carpet so I bled it and used a nylon washer and circlip to keep it in place.
 
ok great cheers for that info, as my clutch pedal in now against the floor with no pressure pushing it back up do you think bleeding with resolve this??? just on past cars the pedal feels spongy when air is in the lines.

cheers again
 
You need to check that the connector is ...well...connected properly as when your bleeding it you have to pull the lever back up by hand so there may be a leak on the connector, and if it's still not right have a go at bleeding it as it can't do any harm.
 
hello

after removing the battery tray and several other parts out the way finally got to the bleed nipple, i followed joes instructions (thanks joe) the colour of the fluid thats in the bottle is black, so done it till it was running clear. tried the pedal and still nothing,pedal hit the floor and stayed there.

this was with the master cylinder i borrowed from a mates recently written off car and it was only on a few weeks and was working fine before removal.

so i bodged up my old one with a drilled hole just behind the circlip and put wire through to stop the clip popping out and i have clutch, but it doesn't engage properly, when placing into gear it pulls slightly and is hard to get it in.

so i'm assuming the slave is ok, i have no leaks around the connectors or out the bell housing.

do you think that my master cylinder is completely dead and my mates was somehow damaged on removal?? or is it a more serious issue within the box??

cheers
 
bandit600 said:
hello

after removing the battery tray and several other parts out the way finally got to the bleed nipple, i followed joes instructions (thanks joe) the colour of the fluid thats in the bottle is black, so done it till it was running clear. tried the pedal and still nothing,pedal hit the floor and stayed there.

this was with the master cylinder i borrowed from a mates recently written off car and it was only on a few weeks and was working fine before removal.

so i bodged up my old one with a drilled hole just behind the circlip and put wire through to stop the clip popping out and i have clutch, but it doesn't engage properly, when placing into gear it pulls slightly and is hard to get it in.

so i'm assuming the slave is ok, i have no leaks around the connectors or out the bell housing.

do you think that my master cylinder is completely dead and my mates was somehow damaged on removal?? or is it a more serious issue within the box??

cheers
Click to expand...

anyone with any advice on the above please???

cheers
 
black oil is from master cyilnder seals etc they are allways bust if black oil or sediment maybe working just before removal but wont take bleeding, one thing that can help is pushing fresh fluid down bleed nipple i use special kit for it but can be done with squeezable bottle with good connection for pipe,will fill master too so watch you dont over fill ,once reasonable pedal it tends to come good on its own during use if parts in good nick
 
did your friends master cyclinder get emptied before he gave it to you? it only takes one or two compressions of a dry master cylinder to knacker the seals..for the peace of mind i'd get yourself a new master cylinder and try that!
 
joe27979 said:
did your friends master cyclinder get emptied before he gave it to you? it only takes one or two compressions of a dry master cylinder to knacker the seals..for the peace of mind i'd get yourself a new master cylinder and try that!
Click to expand...
hi
no it was removed complete, i have ordered a gen new one off ebay for £60 del should be here tomo so i'll try that and report back

cheers
 
part came and fitted it back on the road, would like to know what was wrong with the one i borrowed but just pleased i'm mobile again and for only £60

cheers for all the help guys
 
invariably it's wiper seal on the piston was passing...or you had air in pipe or the quick connector joint was knackered.. doesn't take much to knacker them chief.

glad your sorted
 
sorry guys but need a bit of help again

went out in it today after fitting the new master cylinder and noticed a light kick when going into first or reverse, the gears are fine on the move or when going into a rolling first but when i have to stop and go into first it kicks

is this a slave problem or a bleed problem, dont really want to mess with the new master cylinder if i can help it.

cheers
 
Hello all
Yesterday I placed a new master clutch cilinder after I could press the pedal to the floor
while nothing happened. There was enough brake fluid in the cup.
Today I drove around and after each km the gear switching was getting worse.
I bleede the slave and all worked perfect, but once more after e few km (miles) the switching was bad again. Now I put some toilet paper under the bleeding pipe and what happened.... yes there is a large spot with brake oil on it. Is it normal that you can turn the 13mm pipe with the 8mm nipple thight to the 13 mm pipe?
I loose brake fluid there. Or is it a new slave cylinder?
Piet
 
if you are losing hydraulic fluid into the footwell then I would look at replacing your master cylinder...is it square in the plastic bracket? if not the piston will push down in-squarely and cause piston seals to leak
 
you shouldn't be able to turn them both at same time, bleed through and tighten them up more
or is it leaking out top of bell housing that pipe goes into?

a pic would be easier to diagnose ;)
 
I think he describes the 13mm fitting turning in the plastic pipe.
Had a few cases like this but none have shown anything other than a faint oily mark.

Try bleeding again.
Unless it leaking really bad there should be enough positive pressure from gravity of the fluid above to stop air entering.
 
Looking at the photos of everyone else's bleed nipples, there appears to be a bigger gap between the bleed spur and the input pipe than on mine, and getting anything onto the nipple itself is just about impossible, it's so close to the gearbox mount. To make things worse, no adapter in my pressure bleeding kit will fit the master cylinder and I can't use a vacuum pump as it won't seal on the nipple, and just pressing the pedal by hand has not done a good job.
I saw that Bandit600 had removed his battery and battery tray, did everyone else have to strip bits off to reach theirs?
 
hi oodbob

that was my impression too, no room to bleed. However the bleed pipe seems fexible. I found after removing the top cover and intercooler with hose to the EGR, looking through the maze of pipes it was possible to swing the bleed nipple away from the gearbox mount enough to put a flexible bleed pipe on the nipple.I also found it essential to hold the main pipe with a 13mm open ender while unscrewing the bleed nipple. I ve used a vizibleed kit which has a non return valve in the end of the tube which sits inside a plastic bottle. Didn't cure my floored clutch pedal so now ordered a new master cylinder thro ebay. Can't complain after 125,000 miles
 
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