Freelander 1 TD4 Black smoke puff and P1e30 SOLVED AGAIN !!

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andyfreelandy

andyfreelandy

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Was pulling a couple of horses the other day, they were in a trailer!! On hills, probs because the trailer was behind, I noticed a puff of black smoke but only when pulling hard.

Today checked all the obvious, hoses, sounds of leaks, tight clips, vacuum hoses. Also checked live data which looked fine but a P1e30 had been stored, showing as 'boost system performance deviation'.

I've not seen the engine light on and the fault cleared OK.
With the car not moving smart pumps on the go pedal give a black smoke ring.
Vehicle has done 180k miles.

Anyone had similar please? Doesn't seem to affect the way it drives.
Haven't been under to check turbo actuator yet. That's next. Thanks.
 
Could the code be historic? maybe after a boost pipe has split previously?

It's not uncommon to see a small amount of black smoke under sustained full power operation.
 
So it's not well, the TD4 that is. Been out for a long run today power is down, not massively, black smoke on hills when not really pushing it and worst of all the brake servo seems to be intermittantly failing to provide assistance which is a bit alarming!!

So defo looks like a vacu problem. All pipes checked again and not that old.
How to test? Does anyone know what figure of suck should be in the line from the vac pump?
I'm thinking vac pump or leak in servo causing partial failure of the boost system. Fault code has reappeared fter clearing OK.
 
Test the servo first, as a split diaphragm will reduce the vacuum available for the whole vac circuit.

From memory, the vacuum pump should be able to pull a vacuum greater than 25hg, which is comparable to a petrol engine at idle.
 
Thanks John, what is simplest way to test diaphragm in servo? Could insert gauge and clamp all other pipes to see if vacuum is maintained. Could apply an air pump and see if it holds pressure?
 
andyfreelandy said:
Thanks John, what is simplest way to test diaphragm in servo?
Click to expand...

Stop the engine and wait 10 minutes. Then without starting, press the brake pedal and see if there is assistance, and an audible hiss. If so release and repeat, the pedal shouldn't go down so far next time, and even less a 3rd time, which proves the diaphragm is air tight, and the transfer valve is working.
If the pedal is hard after the 10 minutes, then there's a vacuum leak in the diaphragm, transfer valve or the vacuum pipes and the non-return valve in the servo has failed.
 
Passes pedal test after an hour and so it's pipe check (again) and vacuum gauge check. Suspecting vacuum pump as the repeated brake and hardening pedal has been there for a while.
Thanks for the pointers.
 
So started out getting a reference. Connected vacuum gauge to output of vacuum pump. Getting 26 to 27 HG. Good.

Reconnected all pipework with vacuum gauge 'tee' d into the system. Getting 5 HG.
So then all I had to do was disconnect each circuit in turn and blank it to see if the disconnected circuit was the one at fault.
Lack of power being the main symptom I disconnected the turbo servo solenoid and blanked the connection. Back to 27 HG.

At this point I thought I had a leaky servo solenoid but just to check I removed the long vacuum pipe across the engine and blanked the end. Reconnecting the hose showed 5HG. This was a new pipe a year or so ago.
Replaced the pipe and problem solved.
Pipe looked new and undamaged.

Just to conclude, I blanked one end of the suspect pipe, fitted a foot pump and put the hose in water.

See attached photo. The pipe has failed internally.
Seeing as I did the engine in the same pipe, I shall look for a better replacement and renew them all. I have fitted the tatty 20 Yr old pipe from my old engine, it doesn't leak!!!

So interesting, cheap to fix and another annoying example of how no one can make rubber last anymore!!

Thanks to all for the input, a gauge is invaluable and cost a few pounds.
IMG_20210924_160202.jpg
 
I'm glad it was a simple one Andy, and tested using good old fashioned test equipment, which makes a pleasant change in this computer diagnostic age.
 
Revisiting this again!

Have MOTd the 2002 TD4 ES for the winter to allow me to do some jobs on the Sport. Headlining etc.

Brakes work fine but running out of servo assistance after 2nd press. Vacuum gauge test shows no leaks and a good 24 inhg on idle.

Press brake and vacuum gauge shows 5 or less and cannot sustain vacuum.

Am I looking vacuum pump or servo diaphragm??

Ideas please.
 
Does the vacuum drop immediatly after switching off the engine ? And how long does it take to build up after starting ?

If it's slow to build vacuum and eventually holds at 24, maybe the pump is weak, and cannot keep up with braking ?
 
Good questions !

Will get back on those.

I have checked that the servo holds vacuum if left for a few hours, so unlikely to be diaphragm.

Not much in pump to fail though, either works or doesn't I would have thought.

Anyone had a 'weak' pump ??

Thanks
 
So tested vacuum pump against a working vehicle.
Both identical in response. For reference the pump pulls 24 -25 in hg Vacuum.

2 stabs on brake pedal reduce it to 15 in hg.
Recovery to 24 -25 in hg takes about 15 seconds.

So, not that. Before turning attention to the brake servo, which held vacuum ok, I thought about what else could cause a hard brake pedal. The vehicle has been little used for 8 months.

Stripping the front brakes revealed seized rubber slides on both sides. Resolving this and fitting new pads while in there has completely resolved the problem.

Not 100% sure I know why. Maybe the slide moved on first press and then no more??

It certainly presented as a vacuum loss or leak.

Might help others out !?!??!

196k miles and back on the road !!
 
andyfreelandy said:
So tested vacuum pump against a working vehicle.
Both identical in response. For reference the pump pulls 24 -25 in hg Vacuum.

2 stabs on brake pedal reduce it to 15 in hg.
Recovery to 24 -25 in hg takes about 15 seconds.

So, not that. Before turning attention to the brake servo, which held vacuum ok, I thought about what else could cause a hard brake pedal. The vehicle has been little used for 8 months.

Stripping the front brakes revealed seized rubber slides on both sides. Resolving this and fitting new pads while in there has completely resolved the problem.

Not 100% sure I know why. Maybe the slide moved on first press and then no more??

It certainly presented as a vacuum loss or leak.

Might help others out !?!??!

196k miles and back on the road !!
Click to expand...
Nice solve!
 
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