TD4 Auto Fluid change - Prices?

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Hi.

I've just hit 62k in the 2002 TD4 Auto. The fluid need changing, but very few garages are willing to touch the Jatco auto box. This leaves me finding a main dealer or good indy to do the work. Anyone had this done recently & know how much both Independents & main dealers charge? I know the fluid has to be up to temperature (35-45 degrees), and overfilling can be a major headache with these boxes so I don't mind paying to have it done right. It's about time it was done because gear changes are getting rougher.

Thanks in advance.
 
easy enough to do yourself it only needs to be at running temp to open oil cooler ,both drain and level are on underneathe of box ,level has a 3 inch tube going up in box,dont undo bolts or what look like bung on rear or reverse brake band will become dislocated
 
I can't do it myself at the moment. I'm house hunting so all tools in storage and the house I'm staying in with family only has on street parking on a main road so not climbing under it with cars doing 30mph by my head. I'm hoping I can get it done pretty cheap as I'll be doing 1200 miles next weekend Scotland to london and back with stops all around the country.
 
My local garage did mine along with my ird a couple of years ago for just under £100. Took a couple of days because initially his oil supplier said he could provide then realised he couldn't so the garage had to go to Landrover for supplies. It made a huge difference to how smooth the box changed after that, so much so that I'll be doing it again every 30k miles.
 
Perfect chromium. Mine has started hesitating changing gear then surging forward after a rough change. Used to be smooth as silk. I'm sure the fluid change will make a world of difference. I'll try to find a good independent up here around Dundee. If not it will be a main stealer. All my tools, jacks, stands etc are in storage in merseyside. Never missed them so much.
 
Thanks Hippo. I've been reading your threads for days, already checked & cleaned all the electrical contacts, tried driving round with the maf disconnected, but it definitely seems to be pointing to the fluid. The road is just to busy to work on the car, and as all my friends with drives are 300+ miles away (I'm staying with inlaws) I can't borrow a driveway or any good tools.

Perhaps a local garage will let me use their pit/tools for a reduced rate. Will let you know how I get on.
 
If you do it, you need to start from cold. Then warm up the temp 35 to 45 degrees then do the level check. Hence why gagares will ask you to drop it orf the night before, to allow it to completely cool over night. Then they have control over the warm up process. Good luck.
 
When I had troubles wiff mine, it was the suggested thing to do by many different garages. Main dealer refused point blank unless cold. I would assume it’s the only way they know the real temp of the auto, and it’s oil, when warming up from cold. I assume natural convection comes into play – outside edges of the auto cool before inside when it’s hot. Never taken the risk myself as it’s said that the level needs to be spot on. Not sure if something special happens in the auto like a space opening to allow a wider oil circuit. You’d think on an auto which specifically states a certain method, bearing in mind the level plug being underneath etc, they would have put a dipstick on it instead. Un yer has ta take it apart to get to the oil filter. What was they thinking… Probably won’t do enough miles to need an oil change wiff it being a Freelander… I leave mine in the garage overnight with the sump guard orf. Then change/set the oil level when cold in the morning. I did email Jatco years ago and they said follow instructions I’d listed, from cold. Change only swaps over 42% of oil. I’m tempted to try sucking some more out wiff a hand pump, then measuring it to double check what I fill it wiff to correct the level again.
 
temp is only important in that oil will remain in cooler and not circulate or be drained out when cold ,so that box reaches running temp asap ,its underneathe so easy for checking on ramp for service guys,when you drain it you do get all thats in box itself ,but not t/c or the oil in valve block ,clutch pistons etc,i was doing citreon with peugot box the other day similar to jatco design ,i asked dealers for info but they gave similar info and when questioned it was clear they had no idea why ,which is poor for supposed technicians, level isnt critical to 1/2litre or so as long as filter pick up sits in oil a\nd not too much that clucth packs are running in it and they are fairly high up ,it has its merits as most clutch packs are accessible through side cover with out removing box so that alot of faults including valve block dont require box out,
 
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