Freelander 1 TD4 2.0 Diesel Cut Out & No Start

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
My Freelander has twice died on me. Both times caused by fuel pump failure. Looking into the engine bay from the front it is mounted on the right hand wall. First time it died with no warning signs, it just cut out and that was it. I'd had the car for 28 days and as it came with a month warranty got the garage I bought it from to replace it. Can't say if they replaced with new, used or bodged the original. It failed again just over a year later but this time hitting the pump would get the car running again. That time I did get what would feel like a misfiring engine a couple of times before it left me at the side of the road. Hitting the pump got it working enough for me to get it to a local garage for repair.
 
PotteringPaul said:
My Freelander has twice died on me. Both times caused by fuel pump failure. Looking into the engine bay from the front it is mounted on the right hand wall. First time it died with no warning signs, it just cut out and that was it. I'd had the car for 28 days and as it came with a month warranty got the garage I bought it from to replace it. Can't say if they replaced with new, used or bodged the original. It failed again just over a year later but this time hitting the pump would get the car running again. That time I did get what would feel like a misfiring engine a couple of times before it left me at the side of the road. Hitting the pump got it working enough for me to get it to a local garage for repair.
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul. I don't think this is our issue as we've replaced the fuel pump (our TD4 is a facelift so it's in the rear wheel arch). Also after cut out it starts again straight away.
 
Ok so had the car in at a main dealer who were unable to find any issues with the car. A few bits have been removed and rebuilt and it had a hard reset done so hoping this will all help. Drove the car today and although it didn't cut out there were a couple of occasions where it chucked out white smoke for a bit and felt a little rough. I now have the fault code/description pictured below. Any ideas?

IMG_3702.JPG
IMG_3703.JPG
 
Elsaetka said:
Thanks Nodge, any ideas how I can determine if your theory is correct? I have the updated harness from the ECU to the fuel rail pressure sensor?
Click to expand...

Maybe the sensor has failed? They have a life expectancy of a few thousand hours iirc.
 
Elsaetka said:
It's had 2 fuel sensors in its lifetime from what I can tell. Last one in 2016? Do you mean the high pressure sensor on the fuel rail?
Click to expand...

Yes. The rail sensor is what I was talking about.
Maybe the latest sensor is a duff one? Was it a genuine Bosch part?
 
I've checked the invoice and it looks as though it was a Bosch sensor; Part No. F 00R 002 914

Suppose it could still be duff but equally guessing that it's unlikely this is our problem?
 
Hi,
Can you help me.
I have just read this above post and everything that you have had go wrong has happened to me.
My TD4 cuts out at random points and when you turn the Infiniti on off then crank to start all is good again. Until the next stall. Again ignition off then on to crank the engine and it starts and runs perfectly.
What part did you find faulty ? ?
I have spent loads of money now changing parts at a Land Rover garage. New pressure switch kit C/W loom. Used but good working injectors.
I’m running out of money and time.
Can anyone help me out
 
Chocolate40 said:
Hi,
Can you help me.
I have just read this above post and everything that you have had go wrong has happened to me.
My TD4 cuts out at random points and when you turn the Infiniti on off then crank to start all is good again. Until the next stall. Again ignition off then on to crank the engine and it starts and runs perfectly.
What part did you find faulty ? ?
I have spent loads of money now changing parts at a Land Rover garage. New pressure switch kit C/W loom. Used but good working injectors.
I’m running out of money and time.
Can anyone help me out
Click to expand...
What rationale did they have for changing the pressure sensor? You can unplug it and the engine will still run. Bad injectors causing cutting out and immediate re-start with otherwise perfect running? Pretty unlikely, I think. Sounds like they’re wasting your money.

Any diagnostics done? Live data?

What year is your Td4? The wheelarch pump failing is a very common cause of Td4s cutting out. This is usually with a loss of power and check engine light, though. Could be the relay starting to fail.

HP pump regulator O-rings another candidate.If you unplug it, the engine will stall, so check wiring too.

Dodgy ignition switch? Try fiddling with it. Common problem with heavy bunches of keys.
 
Hi and thanks for the reply. Yes way too much money spend on it now. It has been in at an independent Land Rover garage.
New Bosch pressure sensor kit with loom changed. Still the same.
Four replacement injectors fitted from a good known running engine. Still the same.
Live data shows the low pressure to be in the correct spec as well as high pressure.
4496 fuel pressure deviation is the only code to show. MIL on but will go out once you key the engine off and back on.
2003 year build.
Replacement low pressure pump fitted again from a good known running vehicle.
Removed the checked the suction side inside the tank. It was like new.
Removed the return fuel pipe at the tank and plenty of fuel was flowing engine off ignition on.
New in line diesel filter fitted.
Inlet manifold was taken out and washed to death. Full of Black Death.
Engine breather filter done as well as a full service and clutch kit. Single mass kit.
When the engine stops you can key it off and crank it to start even when you are fee wheeling and off she goes to run no problem. Slight lack of power at all time, but it can still be driven.
I was going to have a look at the MAF sensor next as I have taken it away from the garage now. Labour cost was too much with the guy wanting to keep changing parts until he found the fault. Poor show at £72 per hour labour.
I was going remove the MAF sensor and check it next.
I’m thinking it is electrical and not fuel pressure as the vehicle will start straight away once it has splutter then stall. Key off then back on to crank the engine and away she drives again.
Load or no load town driving as it seems to not do this when motorway driving. That said it is a little under power.
 
I have replaced the vacuum pipe that operates the EGR valve as it was rubber through.
Also replaced the turbo vacuum pipe as the outer canvis had rubber But not holed the pipe.
You can see the turbo rob moving when you look passed the right wheel. The intake hose pumps up with turbo air pressure.
The vehicle was running sweet until we drove it from Glasgow and took the cut off at Carlisle. Once offf the motorway and on the low speed roundabout all my problems started. MIL came one and from my previous story it hasn’t changed. The garage told me that he Had to change the high pressure sensor to allow him to fix a known LD fault. Even after the live data showed high pressure to be within the spec.
EGR is connected and the valve does open and shut. I have only driven it for around 150 Miles.
From the other member post I had similar faults.
However I didn’t see as I looked on.
WHAT WAS HIS SOULUTION
Help Help.
Garage was a waste of time and money, he said it’s an old vehicle and you need to change known parts to diagnose the true fault. Got some labour discount.
Will sell my known old injectors as I know they are not the problem. Get some cash back.
 
Hi,
If the ingnition does fail.
Does it kill the power to the stop solenoid on the high pressure pump ?
The restart after a stall is instant every time.
 
Wow - lots of info. Yes, you don’t need to pay someone £72 an hour to throw parts at it without a diagnosis... You can do that from the comfort of your own home. However, intermittent faults are tricky to diagnose.

MAF fault won’t kill the engine. It can run without it.

Ignition - try to get it to cut out by wiggling the key about. There isn’t a stop solenoid as such, but there is a fuel pressure regulator on the HP pump.

Fuel pressure deviation code - the ECU will kill the engine if the LP supply pressure drops too low (or appears to) to preserve the HP pump. Tap and fiddle with the LP sensor.

Tap and fiddle with the HP fuel regulator on the back of the HP pump.
 
OKay
Thanks for that
Yes the garage was as much use as a chocolate fire guard.
The only thing I’ve not touched is the high pressure regulator at the pump.
Seems strangle that it’ll start once you turn the key to the off position then crank it up straight away. It’s still free wheeling and off she goes again.
You don’t need to hit a bump on the road or change the revs.
At mid throttle position it’s a bit gutless, but when you use the gears you can get it up to speed.
I’ll try to remove the low pressure sensor multi plug and see what happens ie will it stil start / drive and does the stall stop.
Needle in hay stack with this one.
When I started to read the post from the beginning I thought great he has the very same problem, however I didn’t see any solution to his problem. Sad face
 
In summary
Bosch kit to include loom high pressure sensor.
Fuel filter
Replacement low pressure pump used but working. Plenty of fuel flow at return to tank.
Tank sender out all clean
Live data on high and low pressure switch with in spec.
Full service
New clutch
It stalls at random points then when you key it off and crank the key to start all is good again.
4496 fuel pressure deviation was making the mil light come on.
Why does it reset and run ok after the key off then back on ?
It also resets the mil light and it goes out until I hit mid rev range or load.
It drove 100 miles no problem on the motorway, then when we came off after that it all started. The 100 mile run was a dream.
 
This may help it may not i once had a car ordinary carb on it it used to do the same thing cut out restart was under power, stall
after many hours testing and lots of military friends helping mind you never spent as much money as you. Turned out it was
a blocked fuel tank breather pipe / could your fuel tank breather pipe be blocked ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

spacebrodie
Freelander 2 (LR2) Cut out - P0045-19
Replies
6
Views
656
Arctic2
Arctic2
P
Stuttering - cut out - cranks but won't start
Replies
1
Views
637
Arctic2
Arctic2
S
SORTED - Freelander 1 TD4, Cut out at speed not restart
Replies
13
Views
1K
Sly401
S
M
Freeland 2 SD4 HSE - intermittent fault ,wont go over 3000rpm
Replies
9
Views
1K
Rank Amatuer
Rank Amatuer
B
FL2 SCREEN DROPPING OUT
Replies
5
Views
390
Rank Amatuer
Rank Amatuer
Back
Top