Freelander 1 Tailgate Window - anyone sick of these problems yet?

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xpuser8334

Active Member
Posts
471
Location
Nottinghamshire
OK.. I know I've asked this as some point... but..
I press the rear handle and the window drops, and I can open the door.
the light comes on as is should etc. etc.
while the door is open, I let go of the handle (button) and the window goes back up.
If I press the alarm fob, with the door open, the horn sounds, because it knows the door is open.
I have to press and hold the door handle (button) until the window drops, and shut it with the button pressed - letting go when it is in the closed position for the window to raise again.
Today I have:-
Disconnected the battery for 45mins
Replaced the Windows Regulator and Motor and Tailgate Wiring Loom
Stripped the door handle, checking wires and switch movement
The door locking mechanism has been exchanged for a second hand unit, but give the same results.
Started the engine - revved at 1800rpm for 30 seconds, recalibrated the window while revving, then let the engine settle for a further 30 second before turning off...
also tried the book calibration procedure too..
please note - it works perfectly with the dash board switch... just when opening and closing the door it's a pain in the a55.
Apologies... this thing is doing my nut.....!!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
What does the door open light (the one on the dash, not the courtesy light) show if you open the door?

If it shows it closed then the open/close sensor is duff. This would explain why it's rising again.

If it shows it open...dunno.
 
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Sounds like the lock mechanism you fitted had the same fault as your first one. I think it is a pretty common fault as my car had the same issue and a new mechanism fixed it.
If you take the handle off you can stick a multimeter on the connections to monitor what is happening.
As far as I can figure out when you lift the handle a signal (approx 5V) is sent to the ECU. It then sends 12V to the window for half a second or so to make it drop and at the same time sends 12V to the door lock solenoid to make it unlock the door. The voltage to the solenoid will be maintained until you release the handle. The microswitch in the mechanism should now be open (or closed, not sure which) therefore telling the ECU that the door is still open but the microswitches are often flaky causing the issue your having.
It might even show as correct when you try to meter it but has been wobbling enough for the car to think the door was closed but is now open again hence the window going back up, yet the internal light being on.
If you have motorised valves in your home central heating system, you'll know how reliable microswitches are.
 
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Light comes on when the boot is open and goes off when the boot is closed.
Alarm will sound when the door is left open and the button is press on the fob.
Definitely going to be getting a tried and tested mechanism.
 
Light comes on when the boot is open and goes off when the boot is closed.
Alarm will sound when the door is left open and the button is press on the fob.
Definitely going to be getting a tried and tested mechanism.
Whats happening with this? Did you get it fixed?
 
Not repaired yet.- I bought another freebie, hoping I could try the door locking mechanism on my existing one... but the handle is bust on this too. and can't open the door at all.
The disadvantage with this one.. is the commercial has different plastics in the boot and they are a pain to remove... they are one piece from the door, up to the sunroof - only splitting on the roof cross bar!! - not like std 3dr 4/5seaters!!
 
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