suspention lift

jai_landrover said:

but remember bigger tyres, means:
More rotating mass,
Brakes need to be in good condition,
Steering lock is more limited,
Gearing is seriously affected,
Bodywork mods,
Bumpstop mods,
In some cases bumper mods,
The list is quite long.

Pros and cons bigger tyres do give lots of room under your diffs. Which always helps. But if you go too big can bring other problems. I think 900x16 Is the limit for me on rover axles any bigger and its stronger portals with diff locks. Even LR had different gear ratio gearboxes that are mega expensive for 1 tons. perfect for a trials motor. Jai

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Working the required modifications out was fun. I agree though 9.00x16 is as big as you can go, without really, really big modifications. Now where are those 12.00x16's?

Spyderman said:

Don't do spring over axle for loads of reasons.
1 ton shackles give about an inch of lift.
parabolics about 1-2 inches.
Don't do steering guard, the front leafs do just as well, guard reduces clearance and acts like a plough.
For more under diff clearance fit bigger tyres.

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I like the cage on the back door. Do you keep your hamsters in there?

Spyderman said:

Don't do spring over axle for loads of reasons.
1 ton shackles give about an inch of lift.
parabolics about 1-2 inches.
Don't do steering guard, the front leafs do just as well, guard reduces clearance and acts like a plough.
For more under diff clearance fit bigger tyres.

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with the 1 tonne lift did you do both front and rear ? if so was anything hard to allign etc on the front? i think the insa turbos are the way forward and just going to have a look at parabolic springs can these be done with the 1 tonne lift ?

I got a steering guard on ebay if you want it

250498241968

Excellent top notch piece of kit, a must have for any offroader

G

Right, at a P&P a while back, was watching a bunch of slitties trying to tackle a tough hill, and failing, so they challenged the 'Landy-Lads' to show them how it was done;
Three took up the gauntlet; two challenge prepped disco's and me in a bog stock Rangie.
One of the disco's gave up; other went over the other side of the field to get a run, and blasted a new path up it.
I tried the tricky section, and after a few refusals and a bit of work, found a path up..... just.
Then this ruddy Series One came along, bounced straight up and asked, "What you all doing up here?"

Right here, right now, the STANDARD Series III is almost certainly more capable thatn you are; you shouldn't need to do a THING to it except general servicing; make sure you have 'useful' tyres, and AT's for a novice are a better training tool than agressive muds, as they wont drag you as far into trouble, and will give you more oportunity to learn how the car behaves at the limit of the tyres traction, and pack some recovery kit to get yourself unstuck when you get it wrong.
DO NOT, start messing with the motor and trying all teh mods every-one suggests you 'Need'..... you dont, and the trouble is, it increases the number of variables.
when the car starts tiping and sliding and doing 'unusual' stuff on you, as you learn, thats either what it SHOULD do, or you're doing something daft.....
If you have a modded landie doing stupid stuff, could be thats what its supposed to do, could be you doing something daft, or it could be that its something to do with a mod, making it do something thats less than helpful.....
Which, as a newbie, you probably wont be able to work out.
FAR to many Landies (& other cars too TBH) get modded badly, in consequence to a previouse mod, and a driver not REALLY knowing thet what they did first time round was less than helpful...
WHEN you have some experience, and are certain you are getting stuck PURELY becouse you have got as good as the car...... THEN start changing stuff, and a set of more ruigged tyres is the first mod to make..... nothing more..... just tyres!
Having learned on small slippery hoops how to drive for traction and to avoid axle stopping obsticles, see how much easier it gets and how much further you can go on larger grippier rubber...... and get a feel for how the car behaves on it....
THEN if you are deturmined to go further, think about other upgrades.
Paras would be my preffered way of getting more suspension travel and better ride, and a small lift, but to be honest, as the trials buggies show, big lifts aren't as helpful as you may imagine, advantage of added clerance off-set by disadvantage of higher Centre of Gravity...... and by the time you have got to a standard of competence you could apreciate the difference, might be other mods that are more important to you, like finding more power, or lower gearing, or getting the CofG down.....
And while modding series is fun, its also expensive, so having used it as a learning tool, think long and hard before chucking dosh at it, 'cos you may get a lot more for your money trading up to a standard 90 and working from there, with mods.....

Teflon said:

Right here, right now, the STANDARD Series III is almost certainly more capable thatn you are.

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Or that driver is more capable than "all the gear - no idea"

fenby1976 said:

I like the cage on the back door. Do you keep your hamsters in there?

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It's for recovery gear when they're covered in crap to save everything on the inside from getting caked in mud.

saxokid18 said:

with the 1 tonne lift did you do both front and rear ? if so was anything hard to allign etc on the front? i think the insa turbos are the way forward and just going to have a look at parabolic springs can these be done with the 1 tonne lift ?

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I haven't got paras or Insa Turbos, but I fitted 1 ton shackles on the front and rear axles. Rocky mountain do a wedge that fits between axle and spring to correct the alignment if 1 ton shackles are fitted. I haven't got them yet, but haven't had any problems either. Shackles were an easy fit and can be used with paras.
Insas aren't that tall, even the biggest ones. If you want the same tread pattern, Fedima make a 9.00 equivalent.

I have a fairly well thoght out 90, (Very tatty) winch, and big tyres not too grippy on the tricky stuff, detroit rear locker and salisbury rear axle. This has taken me approx 7 years of doing bits here and there. I have learnt alot along the way and grew up dooing trials and comps so I had a bit of an advantage I suppose. The only thing I want to do now is better front shafts and some travelling mods sound proofing etc other than that its as I want it. The 90 is never going to win any comps its far too heavy for a start. its got a heavy Tdi engine thats not the most powerful power plant in the world but I can afford to run it and keep it in good order. My 90 will be mainly a road/tow vehicle that is used alot for camping at comps and recovery work while there. It doesn't look all that good especially compared to many other 'tricked' up motas and even comp motors but many a time the driver of such comp vehicles have been pleased with its ability to get near them so they can be recovered to somwhere less embarrising. I don't like fancy bits and bobs I just want somthing that I can jump in know it will take me where ever I want to go and do what I ask of it. Of late It has been neglected due to other commitments but Im sure will spring back better than ever in a couple of months time.

I think half the battle is knowing your mota, realising its, and your own limitations. When you can look at somthing and say Yes thats doable and nope that will need propper tyres light vehicle and a growling V8 difflocks ect to do that you are halfway there because you understand the physics and know from experience what will happen at every stage of the drive. Its people that do not understand what will happen and just 'go for it' that end up in trouble.

Another thing that makes me laugh ALOT at pay and plays are people using their winch when quite simply a rope would be far more effiecient and easier to get a motor out. Its kinda I brought it I need to use it syndrome.

Obviously there are times when winches are needed: Last year we were at a pay and play day mainly for my neices then 13 and 15 to get in another quick practice go before the tyro comp the following weekend.I had a call asking to go to the other end of the site. There laid in a pool of mud a submerged was a 90 pickup bloke in tub up to his knees in water. Actually it was a TD5 and just for giggles he removed his rear dixon bate because he kept getting stuck with it on. (You kinda wonder what these people are thinking when they are grinding the heads of the tow bar bolts off 'Now I'm Invincible!') Anyways it took 2 motors with 2 winches doubled up to even shift him. Eventually we got him out and he was very thankful but often we often wonder if he has now fitted his dixon bate back on or not.

My Series was standard when I got it, found it's limitations and improved on them over the past few years. I still get stuck, but a lot less often and only normally when I'm trying something where I know there's a good chance of not making it.
It'll go pretty much where any other Landy can go and quite often to places where they can't. 13" of clearance under the diffs is a huge advantage.

Both myself a Jai have seen challenge motors driven by idiots getting stuck in parts we've just driven straight through no problem. learn what it can and can't do, then you'll have a better idea on what if anything you want to improve on.

I loved their faces at Whaddon when both of them were trying to get across the water and up that ridge their motors were about 15K each easily defenders all stickered up simex tyres challenge spec rollcages warn winches front and rear difflocks etc. I had to drive over to them, off the drop (which made everyone laugh)! back wheels hanging in water cos the spare wheel got hung up on the bank for a second. Was quite a drop if i remember rightly. After that slight hangup I drove up to them, around them give a little wave and then drive back over to you spyderman up where they had spent at least 20minutes trying. Lol I do believe they buggered off after that hehe.

The wise old men speak from experience

G

thanks for the comments and realy appreciate them i will take it down my local offroad place SPONDON OFFROAD and see what it can do its been stood 2 years just put a battery on it and its all fine that realy suprised me and mot next week then i can use it without using the trade plates i have realised that this is only going to a local runabout and an offroad toy as it aint fast enough for my motorway driving. back comes the saxo for daily use to work n back i am realy grateful for comments and realised i dont need the gear at the moment . just need to learn the basics first me as a young lad thought offroader all the toys and make it look good but you can do all that and could still be at stage 1 so will do mods as and when i have learnt cheers

There is no better feeling than being the underdog and coming top I can tell you.

It seems when people are talking about
Mods on aus they worry an awful lot
About impairments made to the turning circle, steering and ride.

If these members are that worried about these things should they not be in a modern 4x4. Leave the old girls for us MEN who don't care about that and drive them with our big beefy arms whilst drinking beer in our stained wife beaters??!!;-)

I'll tell you exactly what difference bigger tyres Made to mine- it looks awesome now and is better off road.

Then in two weeks time I'll tell you about the 1 tonne shackles lift and paras

Then maybe I'll tell you later in the year about the rrc spring over axle conversion- which will make my articulation legendary at the rtv club and it might impair road driving but I'm a man and not worried about such things!!

Small dick syndrome. .

dr pepper what **** are you on? Saxo kid try just fitting a set of GB parabolic springs and + 2" gas shocks this will give you about 30/40 mm lift due to the slightly different sprig profile. Oh and have fun getting all the shackle bolts n bushes out. Me if it sits ok and doesnt sag I would leave well alone. If you jack it up on the chassis and let the springs go to full articulation spray plenty oil n paraffin on em drive about for a week then jack up again and use spray grease on the springs it will possibly lift half an inch or more on its own!

dr pepper what **** you on ? Saxo kid if your motor sits ok and dont sag jack it up on the chassis to let springs on full articulation spray plenty oil n paraffin on em drive about for a week then jack up again and use spray grease get it well into the leaves then use the motor, it will most likely raise itself half an inch or more. Or try fitting a set of GB parabollic springs and + 2" gas shocks. Oh and have fun getting all the shackle bolts n bushes out.

4 year old thread WTF?

as relevant today as its always been :rofl:

i found it an interesting read though