Suspension again!!!!!!!

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philco

New Member
Posts
23
Hi all, bless her she's collapsed on one side

Fire her up and all four corners lift but not level drivers side is low front and rear
looks like drivers side is normal and passenger side is in wading mode, if you let her down to access mode she goes down but again unlevel, turn the key off and the back rear off side sinks straight away, right down followed but the front drivers side, passenger side stays exactly as it was, is this a problem with the Offside or nearside, any ideas
there are no codes thrown up

thanks in advance
 
Hi, checked the valve block dryer resevoir all the lines and replaced all four bags was wondering if previous owner may have connected the pipes to the valve block wrong any ideas where the pipes are supposed to go?? other than that thought maybe ride height sensors but theres no codes!!
 
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Valve block pipe positions and colour codes. Pipes maybe ok solenoids could be transposed.

PS When suspension rises rear always goes up first. If either front goes up first or one side rises first either pipes are in wrong place or solenoids are in wrong place.
 
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Immediate thought is a leaky airbag, but you say you have replaced all of those!

What happens if you put it into offroad mode? Does it rise fully and sit level?
 
Hi thanks for the pic wammers will go and check in the morning.... if she goes into hi mode she goes up but still unlevel other thing is the up light continues to flash till you open the door or shut her down, mate of mine has a solus pro he said put some 2x2 blocks between the bump stops and the axles let her down and that should recalibrate her to level...does that sound reasonable to you guys???
thanks again for your help so far
 
Hi thanks for the pic wammers will go and check in the morning.... if she goes into hi mode she goes up but still unlevel other thing is the up light continues to flash till you open the door or shut her down, mate of mine has a solus pro he said put some 2x2 blocks between the bump stops and the axles let her down and that should recalibrate her to level...does that sound reasonable to you guys???
thanks again for your help so far


That only works with Testbook were the calibration is done with two sets of blocks one for access and one for standard height. The other settings being extrapolated by Testbook from those presets. You could of course if you have EASunlock put the correct blocks in then take the readings. Then load those into the ECU. I quoted standard height settings in a recent thread, have a look for them and set accordingly.
 
Hi all, finally got round to looking at the range rover again, just wondered if anyone knew the size of the blocks needed between the bump stops and axles, bought a snap on verdict and it asks for large and small bocks guess the small are 2x2 but no idea what the bigger ones are...can anyone help??? doesnt matter what I do she ends up either too high on the left or too low on the right one or the other, dont want to give in and put springs on but its getting kinda frustrating....joys of p38 ownership eh???...thanks in advance
 
There is something mentioned about blocks in the manual, but damned if I can find it....

So lets work backwards...

We know the wheel arch to Wheel centre measurements.....

Access = 405mm
M/Way = 445mm
Standard = 470mm
High = 510mm

Sooooo.....Remove the Bump stops and let the vehicle sit on the axle....then measure that wheel arch to wheel centre height....now subtract that from the heights listed above and that will give you the height differential that the block would be....

As an example:

Vehicle on axle = 370mm from Wheel arch to Wheel centre
Known Standard Height = 470mm

Difference = 100mm - this is the height of the calibration block for Standard ride height....

Maybe the Wammer and Datatek have a better or more accurate method....
 
There is something mentioned about blocks in the manual, but damned if I can find it....

So lets work backwards...

We know the wheel arch to Wheel centre measurements.....

Access = 405mm
M/Way = 445mm
Standard = 470mm
High = 510mm

Sooooo.....Remove the Bump stops and let the vehicle sit on the axle....then measure that wheel arch to wheel centre height....now subtract that from the heights listed above and that will give you the height differential that the block would be....

As an example:

Vehicle on axle = 370mm from Wheel arch to Wheel centre
Known Standard Height = 470mm

Difference = 100mm - this is the height of the calibration block for Standard ride height....

Maybe the Wammer and Datatek have a better or more accurate method....

Don't have the block sizes anymore since comp crashed a few months ago. Blocks have a recess and cut away so they sit in bump stops. Motorway is 25mm less than standard and access 65mm less with high being 40mm above it. Will try and find correct sizes.

http://p38arover.com/rover/p38a/LRT_60-003.pdf Block sizes.
 
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You are so 'da man' Wammer....

Whilst my Wheel arch to Wheel Centre measurements are correct....my example uses theoretical figures and shouldn't be taken as red.....

But I have to say I was pretty close with 100mm though..!!!
 
You are so 'da man' Wammer....

Whilst my Wheel arch to Wheel Centre measurements are correct....my example uses theoretical figures and shouldn't be taken as red.....

But I have to say I was pretty close with 100mm though..!!!


Don't think it looked red more like a shade of pink.:D:D:D
 
Me and my spelling again....red should be read as 'read' not red....lol

But pink, whislt not a colour I am overtly fond of, I guess for the principle of how you meant it, pink will suffice....


No not a pink lover myself, indications of up hit gardening i think. But from the dimensions it's easy to see what goes on. The bottom 49.5mm sits in the bumpstop and either 86.5 or 21mm is the axle height above the bump stop on standard and access. I suppose if you had endless supplies of 50mm nylon and a lathe, you could make up a complete set with additions for all the height settings. I have the lathe but no nylon. Just fit them, drop the axle on to them and take the readings, then put them in the ECU for all the four settings. Simples.
 
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