Disco 2 Stig at the dump

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Gingermgf

Member
Posts
75
Location
Ilford
Had a bit of a fright at the local dump ! My L2 td5 refused to start!! After I got back in the disco I pressed the door unlock to restart her turned over wouldn't fire up ? Had I pressed some magic button on the key fob to switch the fuel off ? Scratched my head for a bit ! Then I remembered a thread on here about the fuel cut off switch ! I pressed the fuel cut off button to reset her turned the key and she started first time!! Thanks to landyzone I was able to get out of trouble !
 
I understand what your saying so you can't immobilise the vehicle with out locking it so perhaps it's the fuel cut off playing up? I went over a few humps that's all! I never felt the fuel cut off click or anything when I pressed it ,it just wouldn't start turning over fine ..
 
My 2000 TD5 did it a couple of times over the few years I had it. Never bothered looked into why, just reset it and away you go.
 
My 2000 TD5 did it a couple of times over the few years I had it. Never bothered looked into why, just reset it and away you go.
Yeah I agree as long you solve the problem! Got lots of others the bloody oil leaks abs lights flickering transmission light that red thermostat looking light on the right of the dash clocks !! But glad to be back in a l2 Td5 plus I notice the creeping crud on the front wheel arches where the under splash Guard meet had that on my last one ...
 
Just wondering has any one tried gearbox leakstop? My transfer box got a bad leak between the gearbox, it splashes on the exhaust and stinks !!!
 
Just wondering has any one tried gearbox leakstop? My transfer box got a bad leak between the gearbox, it splashes on the exhaust and stinks !!!
Leak stopper additives are usually just a "get you home" solution, although I do use some of the BarsLeaks in the engine.
This stuff usually works best with rubber based seals around rotating shafts by slightly softening the compound but doesn't work that well with paper type gaskets.
If the leak is bad enough to actually drip, then it's bad enough to require a proper repair.
 
Leak stopper additives are usually just a "get you home" solution, although I do use some of the BarsLeaks in the engine.
This stuff usually works best with rubber based seals around rotating shafts by slightly softening the compound but doesn't work that well with paper type gaskets.
If the leak is bad enough to actually drip, then it's bad enough to require a proper repair.
Thanks Brian , Beadles changed the transfer/gear box seal in 2013 then it done 3000 miles till I acquired the disco in June leaking so much the cross member is covered in oil asw as the centre box , I reckon they damaged the seal while coupling the box,I rebuilt a few gearboxes so not a big issue for me just wondering how heavy the transfer box is ? It's ep90 that's leaking not the mtf stuff ..
 
The bars leaks clog the heater be carful,I had an Mgf once the same k series engine in the freelander 1(petrol ) used to overheat changed the head gasket radiator drove me nuts was a jiggle valve and pipe in the heater hose conundrum guess what full of bars leaks as the thermostat used to leak..
 
The bars leaks clog the heater be carful,I had an Mgf once the same k series engine in the freelander 1(petrol ) used to overheat changed the head gasket radiator drove me nuts was a jiggle valve and pipe in the heater hose conundrum guess what full of bars leaks as the thermostat used to leak..

Thanks for that, but I don't think that radiator leak stopper is going to work too well as an additive to stop an oil leak.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Stop-Leak-BARS-Rear-mains-oil-seal-repair-11-99-Free-postage-/152695273137?hash=item238d58f6b1:g:IDYAAOSwcp1ZkeTF
 
I didn't know there was a fuel cut-off switch. Where is it please (in case I end up in the same situation)?
On the D2, the inertia fuel cut off switch is mounted on the bulkhead in the engine bay, just towards the passenger side of the centre line;
OK, the picture is a Hippo, but the position is the same:-
Fuel cut off.jpg
 
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