Steve's Land Raft

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I never went more than 16psi.300tdi ran a large charge cooler instead of intercooler.

Keep fiddling but you could get to a point where things get very hot quickly.
 
Don't touch the boost on the Turbo, the way the VGT works need a lot of setting up to get right and the 300tdi really doesnt need more than 15psi.

Altering the fuel screw will give you an immediate effect,
Unscrew it by 1/2 a turn and see what happens, there will likely be an improvement and you are looking for a little smoke on pedal to the metal on an incline.
having an EGT gauge (and knowing what you are looking at) gives you a big advantage.

I sent my FiP to Diesel Bob and told him of my setup. When it came back to car was quicker than a quick thing in a quick place. Some local lads said I was 'burning coal' when I pulled away from them, prompting me to turn my fuel screw in by almost 1.25 turns.
It's a 300tdi not a race car ..... 🤣
 
I wasn't going to touch the turbo, I understand how it works and they are factory set at 18-19 psi. Just confirmed that with Allisport. I'm going to try some adjustment on the pump to see how it is , but think the best long term solution is to get it rebuilt. The EGT'S are down meaning to get the last bit of boost, I'll need a bit more fuel. There's also a little tweak I can try on the timing from my reading on the various forums. Having the pump tuned properly would see to all of this. I need to get saving I suppose......
 
Been Quiet while my Wallet Recovers.
Have optimised my available settings and it goes very well indeed. 1/4 turn on Fuel screw, timing correct and aneroid set full rich. It flies, makes 19psi at full throttle and the EGT has still not breached 600 degrees, so I'm happy.
I am still getting the Trimphone on speed noise (remember them) above 3000 rpm and at full throttle, I thought it was a leaking bullhorn, but have sealed it up with high temp silicone and if anything it's slightly louder???? any ideas anyone..
I also had an issue with The Rear prop, rear U/J which has been the intermittent driveline roughness I had been getting, so that's fixed too.
It has shown up the shortness in the gearing though and so I collected a Disco 1 Transfer case up in Aberdeenshire last week.
A stripdown has revealed it to be in real nice condition with no polishing evident on the intermediate shaft and case, there was no evidence of any oil leaks, unlike my own unit.
Currently I am considering my options for rebuilding/upgrading this unit, leaning towards Sleeving the case, 300M Pin, big sump and an ATB.
Disco 1 LT230 (9).jpg

Casings for final cleaning

Disco 1 LT230 (10).jpg


Chunkier bits than I usually work with

Disco 1 LT230 (11).jpg


The only issue I found was the high/low selector fork grubscrew was slack to the point of failure, So did the right thing taking it apart to see what's what.

More soon.
 
The Sleeved casing and a big box of goodies is due to arrive from Ashcroft's tomorrow.
I have removed all the bearings from their various locations and cleaned up all the bits.

1000006961.jpg


I called in a favour and got the casings blasted, as I'm going to paint them to prevent further corrosion.
Also spent an hour making up fitting mandrels and splitting old bearing outer tracks for fitting new parts.

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I've had a read through the manual and decided on a plan of action. The box casings are all 1992 except the front housing which is 1993. it has a crossdrilled input gear suggesting it has been meddled with, as these do not appear until later circa 1997.
I'm going to not use the gaskets it had when I stripped it, working on the premise that I will have to start over with the shimming. I will start off by measuring the shims that were in it and subtracting the thickness of the 2 gaskets. then I'll take off another known amount depending on what is in the shim kit, assembling it and measuring the endfloat and working out the final shim thickness from there. I have all the basic equipment to do this, but not the Landrover specific tools, however I have been building custom renault transaxles for 20 years and don't have all of their special tools either.
Stay tuned to see me potentially tie myself in knots.... I need to get a move on as there is a Renault gearbox or 2 inbound, just when I could do without it.
Never a Dull moment..
 
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Up bright and early, Dog walked and the boxes arrived right after lunch Dandy

Disco 1 LT230 (14).jpg


Got it all unpacked and checked over and got started.
Gave the casings a whiff of silver to try to slow the oxidisation process
While that was drying I started to assemble the Diff/ mainshaft sub assembly and other bits

Disco 1 LT230 (15).jpg


Then start assembling
First track in and set 1mm below surface.

Disco 1 LT230 (16).jpg


Input bearing assembly was next I worked out the shimming and subtracted the gaskets and tried it, way too tight. Then I remembered, there was only one gasket, the PTO end was just Blue Hylomar, so someone had re shimmed it when the gear was changed, Adjusted 15 thou. and tried again, felt lovely, no endfloat and just a hint of Drag when turning. Left it there for now.

Disco 1 LT230 (17).jpg


Then the rear housing gets assembled and fitted, followed by the Mainshaft/ Diff assembly.

Disco 1 LT230 (19).jpg



I fitted the re-calculated shims and tried it, no endfloat and no resistance at all, Added a thou and a half and tried it, still no resistance. 0.0015 shim out and 0.003 in. Felt great. Left it there

Proper juggling job assembling the front housing and fitting it all up, took my time and had a think about what does what/goes where and fitted it.

Disco 1 LT230 (21).jpg


After that I fitted the Difflock and high/low selectors and checked the operation, Difflock is great, High/low is pretty stiff, will back off the detent and see, could be the shaft is a bit dry, didn't want it dripping oil over where the sealer was going, by the state of the bench it was time to call it a Day and wait on Junior arriving to give me a hand to turn it over, so round 2 can commence tomorrow.
So far, so good. It can't Last......
 
Started late today, so it was head down, ass up kind of day. I had used the same setting method on the input and mainshafts. I re-adjusted the High low detent and am much happier with how it shifts. I fitted the Difflock cover and then removed the primary gear to fit the intermediate shaft and gears. Lots of lube and saying my prayers as I fitted the new pin through the rotating assembly.Fitted the anti-rotation bracket and bolt and greased the faces of bracket and nut and began to tighten. I'm not a big fan of crush spacers, but making a fixed distance piece would involve several assemblys, so I elected to leave it as Land rover intended. A load of wrestling later had the endfloat removed and I have set the preload by feel. I understand that the correct preload should add 10lbs/inch to the existing reading. Not having a suitable torque measuring device and working on the principle that the whole intermediate shaft is all steel and not Steel /Alloy, I set it by checking the no endfloat/preload feel and tightening a few degrees when I could feel the drag just start to increase, I left it there. Alloy moves quite a bit when heat cycled, Steel much less so.
I refitted the input gear and buttoned it up, I have not sealed it yet as I suppose it will be easier to fit without the input gear in, then it can be fitted sealed and tightened up.
The finished article

Disco 1 LT230 (25).jpg


I Drilled and tapped the big sump 3/8 BSPT and fitted a nice Galvy tapered plug.

Disco 1 LT230 (27).jpg


I'm waiting on a Speedo insert to replace the very rusty thing I had a helluva job removing and were done.

Last point The hole in the selector shaft casting is for the breather tube to connect to????
Can somebody tell me..
Disco 1 LT230 (30).jpg


I'll whiff some paint over the end of the pin and sleeve to stop it rusting and put more grease into the join.

Finally if this were an old Rear Engined Renault this would mean something

Disco 1 LT230 (29).jpg



Need to organise some workshop space and a strong helper, better get some Weetabix....
 
There's always something, just when you think you are done. When I started To clean up the parts, I ran a plug tap of the various sizes through the various holes. This is Standard practice on old Renaults as they are M7 fine pitch and easy to strip out. There was no issue, but one of the main connecting holes was not M10, but M12. I thought nothing of it and tapped it out, noting that the tap went tight suddenly, I had a look and saw a reduction in diameter for about the last mm of thread. I assumed this was to stop you putting a stud or bolt that was too long in and fouling the Low Ratio gear, having noted from Mike's (Britannica Restorations) misadventures that this could happen.
Of course if I had more Land Rover experience, I would have known it should be M10... I'm trying to get a few bits together for the Swap over and need to ask a couple of favours, plus make an attachment for the big trolley jack to become the transfer box fitting jack, so it's not happening right now, luckily...
I ended up making an M12-M10 conversion stud from a High tensile bolt, a PITA job as the steel is not easy to cut, but it's done

6 Holes one hollow Dowel and one solid pin, the hollow dowel made me think there were a couple of M12 in this, teach me to not look carefully

Disco LT230 (31).jpg


A closer look reveals the work of a previous assasin.

Disco LT230 (32).jpg
Conversion Stud Made and now fitted

Disco LT230 (33).jpg


I've made the M10 bit stick out just shy of 40mm, anybody know if that's too long, too short or just right???
Put me out of my misery please
Thanks for watching
OH. Before I forget does anyone know what speedo gear I should use ?? It has a Brown coloured one with 22 teeth on it, think this is what LR call Yellow
I'm running 265/75x16 tyres and for what it's worth seems to read correct with GPS at the moment. use the one from the Disco box or use the Defender original ????
 
I like your stud ...
40mm sounds about right, i'm not near mine to measure at the moment.

What colour drive is a question and a half.
I fitted a blue one, tried a red one and then bought a silly expensive yellow one ... only one I haven't tried is a green one ...

Problem is it's been so long that i've forgotten which ones what ... :confused:
 
Does the 4WD switch work ?
I'm sure mine wasn't wound in that far (i could be wrong .... yours maybe shorter too).
There's only one wire to it to so I ran a short strap to the bolt that's almost hidden behind you super-stud.
 
miktdish said:
Does the 4WD switch work ?
I'm sure mine wasn't wound in that far (i could be wrong .... yours maybe shorter too).
There's only one wire to it to so I ran a short strap to the bolt that's almost hidden behind you super-stud.
Click to expand...
I checked it on assembly, working properly, depending on the wiring, I might pinch the Defender one if it's different. That's a few weeks away I think...
 
A quick question to all you knowledgeable people out there...
My Defenders Handbrake switch does not seem to do anything???? The switch itself is dodgy (intermittent contact) but grounding the wire on he switch doesn't bring any warning lights on and there is no voltage on the wire Ign on or off . Is this even connected on A 1997 Defender or is it model specific. Don't want to change the switch to find out it never worked.
If you know please shout out
Thanks
 
Thanks Mike. Now I know it has a Handbrake warning light I can fix it, the switch is dodgy and will need replacing, but there is no voltage on the wire meaning a blown fuse,broken wire or blown bulb causing the open circuit.
Can you tell me which lamp illuminates for the handbrake????
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Cheers
 
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