Steve's Land Raft

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What intercooler are you running? I have a full width in the 110 which I picked up s/h but am in the market for one for the station wagon.
 
I found that one in the World's Dustbin (Ebay) I was pleasantly surprised with it, but it is a tight squeeze.
 
Day 12......
It'a a grind this. Would be great if it were just `re-assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly' but of course it isn't. Every bit that came off has to be examined, assessed, replaced or worse still dismantled, de-rusted, Painted and re-assembled then fitted. This is why I did it myself, to pay someone hours to go through all of this would end up in a bill I couldn't Pay...
One bit of good news was that I decided to get my inner wings re-galvanised. I took them to Forfar Galvanisers in Forfar, as it happens. Great firm and service, came back looking like new and £55.00 all in! you couldn't paint them for that kind of money.

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Minimal flash to clean off. Well pleased with them..

Some pics of the re-assembly.

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The more Eagle-eyed among you will have noticed the new suspension and it has had a new de-cat frontpipe as well.

Is it just me?? As I have been writing this I keep getting an Ad for `single Women seeking older Men' what is that all about ? I've got an old Landy, so I already have a Needy, High Maintainance thing in my life!!!!
Thanks for looking..
 
Well it's back on the road and, sadly it looks the same as it did before I started.... However I do feel much more confident about next months MOT.
Now that I'm allowed. Ido have some Rusty Tat to sell on, so check out the for sale section.....
More soon
 
Bringing this up to date is the last of the pictures.

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I did sort of fall at the last fence with this. The Bulkhead was a great fit and it all went back together as well as it was before.
Problem started with fitting the bonnet which was now touching the wing at the osr??!!
I did have the presence of mind to check that the bonnet rotating blocks did fit into the brackets on the Bulkhead (which they did) but the brackets were not quite the correct shape and as a result the bonnet did not sit on it's hinges correctly.
Sadly I had to make a Half mil oversize nylon insert to put in the hinge and then Adjust it in Brutal style with Vicegrips !!
Bad news is that I will have to repaint the hinge brackets on the Bulkhead, but the good news is that with the bonnet catch properly adjusted the Bonnet fits, opens and closes beautifully now. It sits nice and does not rattle. RESULT

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My Mate also gave me some left over black carpet from his new project, which I used to retrim my roof panel, it had been covered in foam, which is good ,but looked kinda rough.Think this is much better and free......

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Need to get some better pics, then it'll be time for the MOT - then see if I'm still happy....
 
Sadly I had to make a Half mil oversize nylon insert to put in the hinge and then Adjust it in Brutal style with Vicegrips !!
I had to do exactly the seam with mine, and also the vent hinge. However you have just reminded me I should go and touch them up as I am currently painting oother parts. It’s job that has been on the to do list for nearly 12 months!
 
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Been distracted lately. I put it in for it's MOT, which it failed for a split TRE boot round the back where I didn't spot it. Easy to fix and pass. The tester said it was looking great otherwise, so that's all good then .
I've been picking off odd little jobs, I intend to keep this up over the next few months, which means I'll be left with the big issues on Bodywork, wings and doors. Then there's the possibility of driveline and Motor upgrading, but I'll need to do some homework next and probably ask a few questions on here first.
This month's pocket money went on a new Galvy Military bumper, rear step, a drivers seat re-trim kit and a pair of Gwynn Lewis front mudshields (so simple it's Genius)
I guess the cut out in the Inner Wing is to cover the front wheel being at full lock and bump at the same time, but it means the front tyre hoses all the muck of the day all over your bulkhead and outrigger. I may put the rear shields on the to do list.
The interior is much improved

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It's nice to have a bumper without holes in it (rusty ones)

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I'm also trying to trace a bit of a whine it has had it since I got it. I thought it was just the tyres, but in the first round of service work, I found a US front wheel bearing which cut the volume in half, when I replaced it. I have checked and adjusted all the others and all seems well, but there seems to be a little movement on the front propshaft flange on the transfer box. The noise starts about 30mph and rises to about 50mph when it starts to quieten off. It will do it in 3rd, 4th and 5th. the pitch doesn't change with gear selected, just roadspeed, so its definitely downstream of the gearbox. I need to get a mate to help lever and rock on bits of the driveline to try to confirm this. The front propshaft is not very old, by the look of it, so a potential area of interest. There is minimal backlash on the rear axle/prop, but there seems to be quite a bit of slack on the front
Any advice/tips gratefully recieved
 
Bumper looks good,where did you purchase this from? Any links Thanks
It's just the Britpart Galv version, prepped and painted with Tetrosyl Chassis Black, obtained through Vitesse Land Rover. They were very keen on price on all of the items, which was a bonus as it also meant free carriage. I have used several Land Rover Specialist suppliers and have had good service from all of them. A mate who worked for Land Rover years ago gave me the TD5 endcaps, he must have had them for Donkeys in the bottom of his toolbox.
Just need to sort out a pin to put in the toolbox, we have a couple of places which are like Agricultural Factors. I'll be able to get a Pin there, like I did for the towbar, made it slightly oversize to take up the wear, much less noisy than it was.
 
It's just the Britpart Galv version, prepped and painted with Tetrosyl Chassis Black, obtained through Vitesse Land Rover. They were very keen on price on all of the items, which was a bonus as it also meant free carriage. I have used several Land Rover Specialist suppliers and have had good service from all of them. A mate who worked for Land Rover years ago gave me the TD5 endcaps, he must have had them for Donkeys in the bottom of his toolbox.
Just need to sort out a pin to put in the toolbox, we have a couple of places which are like Agricultural Factors. I'll be able to get a Pin there, like I did for the towbar, made it slightly oversize to take up the wear, much less noisy than it was.
Military bumper pins are available on eBay.
 
Still working on the Driveline noise. Wheelbearings have all checked out ok. The front Drive flange on the transfer box has movement on it. I wonder if it was driven with a damaged front prop u/j, which failed in such a way that a new front prop was reqd. Instead of just a new centre piece.
Having checked Ashcroft's website a new front output shaft, bearing plus a new flange and all the bits is not expensive. I can see it is a single ballrace which will rock from new it's security is governed by how snug the shaft splines are in the front Diff. Not unlike an old Renault swing axle. The only way to know for sure is to take it to bits and see if the bearing is smooth or not.
If you drive like an old woman there is no roughness and the noise starts about 30mph and is loudest about 50mph it fades slightly as the speed increases, although the general ambient volume increases. If you dip the clutch at 50 and knock it into neutral it is much quieter. If you step on the throttle at 30 in 4th the roughness is quite pronounced.
Any wisdom gratefully received.....
 
Been keeping a low profile, the weather's not helping either, plus my Son and partner have got a Pup, a Labsky, so it has been Doggy Daycare this last few weeks during office hours, which if I'm honest, I've been enjoying.
I've got the front output for the Transfer box, so just need to get it fitted. I also have the Gwynn Lewis Rear Mudshields to fit. I have fitted the MUD centre console and have my EGT, Boost Gauge and Usb socket fitted up. I was originally not too happy to see that you were supposed to cut out the original lower Dash panel, but have discovered that you don't have to, unless you want to cram your centre console full of stuff, which I don't, so it's all ended well. I'll get some pictures.
EGT is interesting it shows Between High 300's to low 400's cruising and high 500's working hard uphill in 5th gear, so that all seems normal to my thinking, means I can keep a check on things if I have a meddle with the settings.
Happy motoring, while you still can.......
 
A couple of pics of the latest additions

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If these had been a Factory fit then the Chassis would last a lot longer, so simple it's Genius.

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Finally the console, well made and strong. If you don't use the lower cut outs, you don't have to cut the lower dash panel, so it's all good.
 
A couple of pics of the latest additions

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If these had been a Factory fit then the Chassis would last a lot longer, so simple it's Genius.

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Finally the console, well made and strong. If you don't use the lower cut outs, you don't have to cut the lower dash panel, so it's all good.
Are these the little mudflap editions that go onto the footwells? I was far to cheap to buy the fancy moulded ones you have and made some out of old conveyor belt! I also made some for the rear to replace the underside light covers which I then extended down to the bottom of the crossmember to add protection to the rust trap there! It is dark photo but you can see the idea.

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Yes. That's the very thing. Normally for me, I wasn't really paying attention and after doing the Bulkhead and getting it all together, the hole in the inner mudguard just looked like a problem waiting to happen, so I got the front ones, which I thought were reasonably priced, without realising there were 6 shields as a complete set. I have just bought and fitted the front part of the rear guards, which were much more expensive, but have to say that the quality is good. If I'd known more when I started, I may have done it more along your lines. Which works just as good for a fraction of the cost..
 
What are the rear guard set, I will have to look into that and see if I can copy them with some more belting? I was only aware of the ones you have pictured and the little ones that stop mud flicking up the sides behind the front wheel?
 
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