Steve's Land Raft

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dag019 said:
I know a little late to comment as you have fitted an moved on, but vented discs fill with mud and stop being vented if you venture off road any more than occasionally, but not a problem if mostly road worked. I would also always recommend fitting stainless pistons to new callipers to ensure you never have to do the job again. I may cost almost as much as the callipers but they should never seize again and hopefully never need seals as you don't get the old worn chrome catching the seal when it is pad change time. As you even stripped them down to clean it would have been the ideal time to do it!



I know you have painted with bed liner which claims to be nice and hard wearing but if you are planning on throwing lots of work type things in the back you cannot beat a piece of stable matting fitted upside down (bobbles down) as the hardest wearing bed liner money can buy. and fitted upside down the drain channels work to aid sliding things in and out and drain out anything that spills, less of an issue on a 90 but makes a difference on my 110!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the comments, all of that makes complete sense. I bought this, as I can repair it and parts will be available for the foreseeable. A Transit would have perhaps been better, but they are rotten piles of trash you can't fix and wouldn't want to ...
I won't be off road, apart from the odd bit of fishing, but I'll be able to get to a couple of places where the tracks have deteriorated to the point where a Landy type vehicle is the only way to get there.
Never thought about stable matting, that is a good idea. I was genuinely surprised by the dust seal design of the calipers, useless to be honest. It would not be a good idea to let pads wear down on these, that said they are not expensive, so can be changed regularly.
This Landy will be Looking a bit different by the time it is finished, I am posting up about 2 months of work in a week to get to where I am now with it, so that when I start asking questions, there will be some context to what's going on.
Primarily I got it as a general carrier and Tow vehicle, a 110 would be a better Tow car, but space is a real premium where I live. It's surprising how small a 90 is compared to today's cars. It just looks bigger as it's taller.
It will be towing this

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Shouldn't stress it....
 
Close. A Queron Dauphine Replica. The only one in the UK. Georges Queron Built about 30 cars in St. Etienne in the late 60's-Early 70's
As car Modifying was not permitted for highway use in France (mind you they shut the public roads and compete on them every weekend) Queron Dauphines were listed as such on the Carte Gris (Reg Doc) They originally were Dauphines with Renault 8Gordini Mechanicals, but later cars were more like Gr4 Alpine A110 (still R8G based)Mechanicals.
Mine is base on the No Holds Barred GR5 Aproach. It's about 730kg with the fat end of 200hp Heaviest thing about it is the Driver!!!
Hope to get out to a few hills and sprints. I did Circuit race My 8G for many years, but the costs are through the roof, so my pukka racing days are over, Maybe, never say never.............
 
Having put the Ass back in the Landy, It was time to move forward, from the front of the rear tub to the Bulkhead. Several hours of Grinding, drilling and impact Driving left me with this

The Landy (53).jpg


It's a Fred Flintstone special. Good news is the Chassis is all fine, pity about the rest......

The Landy (45).jpg


This was the motley collection of Trash removed.. Seatbox is ok, just the ends are shot.
The old and new battery boxes. The old one weighs about 25kg, God knows how many dodgy repairs have been done to this. Makes no sense when compared to the new light Alloy replacement at about £65.00

The Landy (46).jpg


I painted the battery box and end panels before tackling the seatbox proper

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Yes it was a PITA to prep.

The Landy (48).jpg



Remember heavy duty clothes line always

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That's all looking good, so we turn back to the Landy now.

The Landy (55).jpg


You can see how the dodgy battery box repair has done for the sill rail (the frame that ties the tub to the A post and holds the sill piece) I have ordered two Galv replacements. you can see how the seat belt Brackets have corroded the tub lower front, Luckily a repair piece is available.

The Landy (58).jpg


Just need to transfer the mounting point holes and bond it all in. I will use Foam tape on the alloy/steel surfaces.

Finally the view underneath which is all saveable, without too much Grief.......

The Landy (59).jpg


Famous Last words EH........
 
Dauphproto said:
you can see how the seat belt Brackets have corroded the tub lower front, Luckily a repair piece is available.
Click to expand...

I need to do this on the hardtop tub as it has gone in the same place where the seatbelt brackets are at each end. do you have some more details on how this is fitted as it does not look like full width repair panel? does that mean it just glues/riveted over the top?
 
The Part is from YRM pt no. 122 and comes as 2 halves, mine was thin and had a couple of small cracks, so I bonded the new parts to the original with Sikaflex 431. I had removed the seat belt brackets and used a piece of boxsection underneath, and about a half dozen G clamps till it was cured. YRM also do a steel structure frame which can be fitted up underneath and through bolted. As mine was still complete underneath, I cleaned it all up, painted it and used the foam tape between the steel/alloy interfaces, with new Galvy brackets. It's a strange (possibly normal for Landys) set up where the seatbelt points are bracketed to the Chassis, but have to pass through the tub. The tub plays no real part in supporting the Seatbelt Anchorages, but I would suspect any MOT tester would not be happy to see corrosion around a Seatbelt Mount.
 
Well that was a bigger job than I thought. It's nearly back together again. To be Honest it went together fairly easy, it's just that I renewed a load of bits, Tub front, Brackets, Sill rails and brackets and the seat box ends. I have also rebuilt the folding steps, which now work as they should. They were totally rusted, but it is the powdercoating that is the issue. These bits are cheap to buy, but the quality suffers, so no point in replacing them, as I'll be back in the same place in no time.

The Landy (51).jpg

Just one of them stinking jobs where you can taste rust for the rest of the day.....

The Renault Gearbox bits are scrap, waiting for me to pluck up the enthusiasm to dump them...

The Assembly..

The Landy (60).jpg


Before anyone asks.. Yes all the screw heads point the same way. Modified the front mount, so the floorplate can be removed without unbolting the step. Just reverse countersunk the floor plate so a button head is flush fitting.

In the parked on the street position

The Landy (61).jpg


Might save personal injury to passers by.

The Landy (63).jpg


Rear tub front much tidier.

The Landy (62).jpg


Almost seems a shame to cover it all up.
Need to paint the front Diaphragm and Sills and they go on next, make a battery clamp and were off......
 
Finally Starting to catch up to Reality on here .
I Don't like Chequerplate, just a personal choice thing, but there you go. The young Lad who sold it to me said `Please don't cover it in Chequerplate.
It only had sill covers and the bit at the rear end, but the sills weren't straight and looked bad. I have been impressed with the fit and finish of YRM Metal Solutions parts, so decided to get a pair of Sills from them. 3mm thick, well made and finished. Fitting was straightforward an they fit better than the originals did.

IMG_20240525_161929040_MFNR.jpg


and the other side

IMG_20240525_162350385_MFNR.jpg


I think that looks much better. I gave them a scuff with 180, a Drop coat of Etch, a full coat of Etch, Grey Scotchy and on with the colour. They come well finished indeed.

Inside I bought a Britpart seat retrim kit. Icouldn't make my mind up between Exmoor or Britpart, so decided to Go Britpart for the Passenger Seat Reasoning it is less used and if I didn't like it I hadn't bought 2....
Have to say very pleasantly surprised with it. All the other cars I have Rebuilt have been for competition, so have had their interiors removed. This was the first time I have done anything like this and I'm calling it a win...

IMG_20240525_161938790_MFNR.jpg


The seat base looked like it had been used as a wedge or something, so I had to chap it flat and weld it back together. I really can't believe how good it looks and Feels. Will have to get another for the Drivers seat.
Unfortunately I have also had my first purchase that I feel was a mistake. I don't want a Plush interior, Landy's leak, so no carpet for me. I bought Lucari's Seatbox cover which was the closest to the original I could find. But I have ended cutting it down to match the original Wrap around, as I just could not get it to fit right at all. It may have been Me, but I don't think so. It is truly written `You can't win em all'
That's where we're at as of tonight, so the pace will return to something more normal
Thanks for reading, more soon.....
 
Pretty sure you are correct about the headrest. Project Hardtop is next, so the seats will go further back. Anybody got a Safari rear door????? That's the only outstanding bit I need
 
Just looking in on your restoration and can see you are doing a great job and thinking of long term anti corrosion. I see you have fitted the correct for year foam bulkhead vent seals. They are awful at trapping water and promoting rust.
It is possible to fit the rubber seals of previous series 110 90 models which are glued to the bulkhead. Cheers.
 
tottot said:
Just looking in on your restoration and can see you are doing a great job and thinking of long term anti corrosion. I see you have fitted the correct for year foam bulkhead vent seals. They are awful at trapping water and promoting rust.
It is possible to fit the rubber seals of previous series 110 90 models which are glued to the bulkhead. Cheers.
Click to expand...
That's something I didn't know. I had the idea they were not interchangeable. To be honest I'm plucking up the courage to order a Bulkhead. This one could be repaired, but to do it properly will mean stripping it down to the point where it's not much more work to change it.
Discuss.......
 
Bulkhead…
Source a good one and refurb then swap all over. You will only be without the motor for the weekend at your speed.

Or source a galvaniseds/stainless one if the motors a keeper. More expense but worth it in the long term.
 
I may have Started this thread in the Wrong place. If one of the Mods can move it into the projects group it would be better, my Fault for putting it in the wrong place to begin with.
Bulkhead pondering continues.........
As I Had only bought one seat refurb kit, I had also bought a Cubby box, the only really worthwhile development in Passenger Vehicles in the last 25 years is the Cup Holder.. I now find it hard to live with a Vehicle when there's nowhere to put my insulated Mug.
I see the fitting is a please yourself arrangement, so I elected to put M6 Rivnuts in the centre seat holes and make bearers out of some 20mm black hoop that was lying about. I made nylon spacers up to keep the bottom of the box just above the centre access panel, so it can be removed quite easily

IMG_20240527_141231564_MFNR.jpg


All was well until I refitted the Drivers seat and got in to try it. I thought it was about an inch too low, then I remembered the seat rails. Undeterred I then made a couple more 30mm spacers to fit between the box and rear support bar. This seems to have done the job and it is still 4 easy to access bolts to remove the whole thing.

IMG_20240527_143656384_MFNR.jpg


If the weather would cheer up a bit I can get my sides and roof prepped.
cheers
 
This week, Oi 'ave been mostly sanding..........
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The Blue respray smelt like synthetic as it was coming off, so I carried on through it and the layer of primer/surfacer underneath.
This got me to the original white which was showing micro blisters through to the original etch primer on the Aluminium, pretty much it all had to come off. A real fun job....
The sidepanels also had been victim to a dodgy respray (is there any other kind on a Landy) so had to get taken back to the original topcoat, at least there is less of them to rub.
Thankfully the inside was original, so just needed a good scuff before painting with Bedliner paint tinted Alpine white.

The Landy (73).jpg


Looking fresh.
The roof was etched, primed and re-sealed as I had removed the 3 tubes worth of silicone that had been used on it. I still don't know why though...

The Landy (77).jpg


Rain had stopped play at this point.

Today Sun 9th Jun has now got the returned edges of the roof in topcoat.

168bb65b-7f79-4d24-afce-73d70b66991f.jpg


The foam soundproofing is dry, intact and well stuck on, so it stays for now. I want some kind of headcloth for the cab area, so it doesn't drip on my head in cold weather (ever an optimist)
I have painted one sidepanel to see what like, as I only have a small touch up gun and a primer hose. Neither suitable for topcoating larger areas.

The Landy (78).jpg


That'll do me. It's a Landy, I'm not getting all precious about it

The Landy (81).jpg


Thing is, was it a fluke or can I do it again, well I ran out of paint, so stay tuned for the next instalment.....
Oh. Can anybody help with a Safari Back Door ??? I guess it is probably better to buy new, as any secondhand will need repairing....
I await the wisdom.
 
Last edited:
SP4x4 are very good although i've not had a lot of comparison to be fair ...

Land Rover Defender Rear Doors Full Range Made in UK - SP Panels

SP 4X4 sells Land Rover Defender rear doors as well as manufacturing high quality galvanised rear doors to suit Defender models from 1983-2016. We also supply the doors glazed with plain glass, heated or heated high brake glass. Buy your Defender door here.
www.sp-4x4.com
 
miktdish said:
SP4x4 are very good although i've not had a lot of comparison to be fair ...

Land Rover Defender Rear Doors Full Range Made in UK - SP Panels

SP 4X4 sells Land Rover Defender rear doors as well as manufacturing high quality galvanised rear doors to suit Defender models from 1983-2016. We also supply the doors glazed with plain glass, heated or heated high brake glass. Buy your Defender door here.
www.sp-4x4.com
Click to expand...
I had been looking at them for a door and a Bulkhead.
Just to check I'll need a door, hinges, a latch & keeper. Oh and a seal .
Anything else?????
 
Dauphproto said:
I guess it is probably better to buy new, as any secondhand will need repairing....
I await the wisdom.
Click to expand...

It depends entirely on your budget, how much work you are willing to do and how long you are willing to wait for a good second hand one. There are second hand ones that are advertised at the same price as a new one so I do not know who is buying them! But I bought a very good condition second hand one recently which was cheap because it did not have any of the wiper mounting but it required no welding. I drilled a couple of holes and swapped over all of the wiper mounting bracketry form my old door and and got a very cheap very good rear door but I was probably looking for about 6 months while the rest of the vehicle was being rebuilt and travel with work so can easily collect form about 2/3 of the country!
 
dag019 said:
It depends entirely on your budget, how much work you are willing to do and how long you are willing to wait for a good second hand one. There are second hand ones that are advertised at the same price as a new one so I do not know who is buying them! But I bought a very good condition second hand one recently which was cheap because it did not have any of the wiper mounting but it required no welding. I drilled a couple of holes and swapped over all of the wiper mounting bracketry form my old door and and got a very cheap very good rear door but I was probably looking for about 6 months while the rest of the vehicle was being rebuilt and travel with work so can easily collect form about 2/3 of the country!
Click to expand...
That's so true. Living in the frozen North. I'm not near anything, which doesn't help. The 90 is a keeper and I'm trying to press on, so time is of the essence. I was looking at SP's all Galv rear door and actually fancy the no window option as a lifetime of larger vans has rid me of needing to see directly behind me when reversing, plus no wiper washer or heated wiring needed. That said it would be nice to keep it kinda original, so that if something happens and I have to sell it, it has broader appeal. Every other vehicle I have built has ended up unique and takes ages to find buyers. The plan is to have the Chassis, body and Mechanicals A1, the rest is just added on bits.
While on that subject, my pickup has no back door just the tailboard, where is the wiring hiding for washers, wiper and heated screen??? There are a couple of plugs on the harness where it crosses the rear cross member. What are these? Oh and is the Genuine 300 TDI manual worth the money. I find Haynes manuals a waste of time since the late 80's
 
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