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Hi all, can you use an easy bleed to bleed the steering box? As I have no trusty assistant about.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Disco 2 Steering box bleed
- Thread starter Andy Warren
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Steering systems are self bleeding, so you only need to remove the return feed to the reservoir, diverting it into a container, then simply fill the reservoir from a fresh supply of fluid. When the return starts to flow clean fluid, you know its bled. Turn the steering full one way and repeat. Turn steering full the other way and repeat.
Replace the return hose to the reservoir, and top up with fresh fluid. Turn the steering left to right a few times, then top the reservoir to max level.
Job done.
Replace the return hose to the reservoir, and top up with fresh fluid. Turn the steering left to right a few times, then top the reservoir to max level.
Job done.
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Cheers, just the D2 has a bleed nipped on the steering box which the manual says to use that ( maybe just for the box? ).
Rave shows a specific method, which I've not used.
Maybe best to follow the official LR instructions. But no an easy bleed won't work, but a pipe on the bleed nipple will stop fluid spraying all over the place.
jamesmartin
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you really only need to do lock to lock a few times, the oil circulates from pump to box and back again so any air soon comes out
discool
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As it’s called a bleed nipple I expect that is what would be used if there was air trapped in the system.
Can say ever had air in the system in my 33+ with a Land Rover, so never needed to touch the bleed nipple.
If you wish to replace the fluid follow the procedure above, I replaced the PS fluid in my disco this earlier this year, and it was the first time it had been changed, I had the engine running to drive the pump and me feeding fluid into the reservoir at the same time as a container was filling up from the reservoir return, took nearly 4 ltrs to do the job. The exact amount of fluid in the system is stated in the workshop manual.
There was no difference if the vehicle steering with the new fluid so I wondered why I bothered.
Can say ever had air in the system in my 33+ with a Land Rover, so never needed to touch the bleed nipple.
If you wish to replace the fluid follow the procedure above, I replaced the PS fluid in my disco this earlier this year, and it was the first time it had been changed, I had the engine running to drive the pump and me feeding fluid into the reservoir at the same time as a container was filling up from the reservoir return, took nearly 4 ltrs to do the job. The exact amount of fluid in the system is stated in the workshop manual.
There was no difference if the vehicle steering with the new fluid so I wondered why I bothered.
But you know it's been done.
I think rack systems are more fluid fussy than box based systems.
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Thanks for that. I replaced the pump & feed pipe last June when I acquired this project just to stop it peeing ATF all over my drive whilst I fixed many a common problem & bled it like you say & whilst shunting it about the steering was fine. Since putting it OTR last Thursday the steering has become non power assisted when trying to park/ manoeuvre,basically at idle, hence the reason I want to bleed the box. Otherwise it drives/ steers fine. Fluid is returning great & there's no funny noises when you turn it from lock to lock (with the revs increased). So do you think I might be looking at a replacement s/box ? Thanks in advance.
jamesmartin
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oil isnt frothy ?
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Thanks nodge, I did notice there was no mention of fitting a pipe in the genuine w/s manual which would make it bloody messy!Rave shows a specific method, which I've not used.
Maybe best to follow the official LR instructions. But no an easy bleed won't work, but a pipe on the bleed nipple will stop fluid spraying all over the place.
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I know what you mean about doing things that don't seem to warrant the hours & care taken doing 'emAs it’s called a bleed nipple I expect that is what would be used if there was air trapped in the system.
Can say ever had air in the system in my 33+ with a Land Rover, so never needed to touch the bleed nipple.
If you wish to replace the fluid follow the procedure above, I replaced the PS fluid in my disco this earlier this year, and it was the first time it had been changed, I had the engine running to drive the pump and me feeding fluid into the reservoir at the same time as a container was filling up from the reservoir return, took nearly 4 ltrs to do the job. The exact amount of fluid in the system is stated in the workshop manual.
There was no difference if the vehicle steering with the new fluid so I wondered why I bothered.
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I'll check when I get home later & refit the battery box & inter cooler pipe that I had to remove to get the bleed nipple loose ready for bleeding, what a place to put a nipple I could think of far better places
. Cheers.
jamesmartin
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it unlikely to have trapped air if reving the engine improves the effort the pas makes it would likely be poor pump or poor control valve in the box, steering can become notchy /stiff if the ujs in lower steering colomn seize which they often do if car has been stoodI'll check when I get home later & refit the battery box & inter cooler pipe that I had to remove to get the bleed nipple loose ready for bleeding, what a place to put a nipple I could think of far better places
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OK, I'll just check for air now I've got this far & see if anything changes. I know it has a slight bit of back lash to take up so I'll sort that as well. I've shunted it about almost weekly since I've had it & as I say had no problem going from lock to lock on the drive. I'm not sure how long it stood before I got it in June 20, the mot had run out Sept. 19. Thanks again I'll keep you posted.
jamesmartin
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might be worth checking state and tension of the drive belt
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So I bled the steering box as per the manual but no air came out & as expected it made no difference to the heavy slow speed steering.
Today I popped down to Hereford, in my trusty FL1, to see my son & look at his D2 TD5 which was refusing to start after he changed the fuel pump, although he said he'd been through the priming procedure, when I did it today it fired up straight away so my 300 mile round trip was worth it. Anyway whilst it was running I looked at his power steering reservoir & the fluid was returning at a fair old rate compared to mine (after changing my p/s pump I did his with the same make as mine) I then looked at his tensioner/belt & also noticed the tensioner wasn't bobbing about like my new one does I also tried the steering & it's so light compared to mine.
As I said in an earlier post the steering was all right when I first fitted my pump in June 20 (the pumps done about 100 miles since fitting) & the only thing I've done since that could affect the p/s is a new belt & tensioner. So when I got home tonight I checked the belts & the old Contitech one is a 7PK 1867 & my new Gates belt is a 7PK 1870 which means it's a longer belt, does anyone know if the 1867 is the only one to fit (ace & air con) ?
So after all that rambling does anyone think the longer belt could be causing the tensioner to 'bob' about like it does & also be too long to keep the correct tension on the p/s pump pulley ? There are no sounds of a slipping belt & all the writing on the back of the belt is still perfect. Any thoughts, again would be much appreciated.
Today I popped down to Hereford, in my trusty FL1, to see my son & look at his D2 TD5 which was refusing to start after he changed the fuel pump, although he said he'd been through the priming procedure, when I did it today it fired up straight away so my 300 mile round trip was worth it
. Anyway whilst it was running I looked at his power steering reservoir & the fluid was returning at a fair old rate compared to mine (after changing my p/s pump I did his with the same make as mine) I then looked at his tensioner/belt & also noticed the tensioner wasn't bobbing about like my new one does I also tried the steering & it's so light compared to mine.As I said in an earlier post the steering was all right when I first fitted my pump in June 20 (the pumps done about 100 miles since fitting) & the only thing I've done since that could affect the p/s is a new belt & tensioner. So when I got home tonight I checked the belts & the old Contitech one is a 7PK 1867 & my new Gates belt is a 7PK 1870 which means it's a longer belt, does anyone know if the 1867 is the only one to fit (ace & air con) ?
So after all that rambling does anyone think the longer belt could be causing the tensioner to 'bob' about like it does & also be too long to keep the correct tension on the p/s pump pulley ? There are no sounds of a slipping belt & all the writing on the back of the belt is still perfect. Any thoughts, again would be much appreciated.
