Steering assembly removal/Bulkhead

Hicap phill · Feb 20, 2024

This shows the fuse box side.only photo I got

Seaswood · Feb 22, 2024

Any advice getting the wiring blocks apart?
Otherwise I pull on them daily add some oil been fourty years since installed.

Hicap phill · Feb 22, 2024

Seaswood said:
Any advice getting the wiring blocks apart?
Otherwise I pull on them daily add some oil been fourty years since installed.

That’s the way…..

Seaswood · Feb 29, 2024

Just about ready pull it all through.

dag019 · Mar 1, 2024

Seaswood said:
Just about ready pull it all through.
View attachment 311578

Being prepared enough to label things is cheating. You need to be trying to remember where everything goes from blurry photographs and matching wiring colours from a black and white wiring diagram to get the proper wiring loom experience.

Seaswood · Mar 1, 2024

If you read wiring diagrams they change colors at the blocks sometimes, so be it.
I pulled those wires through bulkhead will be able to unwrap check all wires.
I was looking through boxes & boxes of unmarked parts looking for door hinges 2 got lost.

Seaswood · Mar 5, 2024

Is there a good place to break steering shaft, does it matter which spline they all appear tight fitting into a split fittings. Maybe I just need different tool to spread joint.

Hicap phill · Mar 5, 2024

Chisel in the split of the joint. You can then knock the steering thing(between the 2joints)
To shrink it and remove from steering box

dag019 · Mar 6, 2024

Seaswood said:
Is there a good place to break steering shaft, does it matter which spline they all appear tight fitting into a split fittings. Maybe I just need different tool to spread joint.
View attachment 311987

Hicap phill said:
Chisel in the split of the joint. You can then knock the steering thing(between the 2joints)
To shrink it and remove from steering box

As above remove the clamping bolt, and chisel the joint apart. you need to remove both bolts and chisel both halves of the joint so that there is enough movement to slide the joint on the shaft to remove from either the box or the column. It is also important to fully remove the bolt not just loosen as there is a notch in the shaft the bolt sits in to will prevent the joint moving even if the clamp has been removed.

Seaswood · Mar 6, 2024

Okay my mistake as I did not remove the bolt it was just loosened.
I work with wood chisels but I get the idea something to spread joint.

Seaswood · Mar 7, 2024

Screw driver worked, next accelerometer
I did need to get wheels off ground to turn the shaft/wheels.

Seaswood · May 30, 2024

This shows corrosion water intrusion eats metal.
A Metal friend is going to remove the arch above the clutch housing with attachment points for diaphragm in front of transmission cover.
To be installed on replacement TD-5 bulkhead.

Seaswood · May 30, 2024

Door sills the lower galvanized is britpart, does not include the outside sealing lip on original.
Is that lip riveted onto the sill or are they welded.
Either way not included with the Britpart version.

shaynecm · May 30, 2024

the newer doors moved the lower seal to the door - i fitted puma style lower seals to my doors as found them a bit better as they go up each side a little way.

the older ones think are rivited on but would glue them on as its galv.

Seaswood · May 30, 2024

The door seals I have are sides & top, bottom seal should be on sill I thought?

I will see if that edge is riveted on?

Hicap phill · May 31, 2024

Seaswood said:
The door seals I have are sides & top, bottom seal should be on sill I thought?

I will see if that edge is riveted on?

Get the lower seals that go on doors.
The ones on the sills can get dirty & leave marks on the trousers when you leg touches them.

shaynecm · May 31, 2024

Seaswood said:
The door seals I have are sides & top, bottom seal should be on sill I thought?

I will see if that edge is riveted on?

it's these ones

Land Rover Defender Puma TDCI Front Door Lower Rubber Seal GENUINE LR029309LR | eBay

LAND ROVER DEFENDER 90 110 130 GENUINE PARTS FRONT BOTTOM DOOR LOWER SEAL Suitable for.. - Defender 90, 110, 130 models 2007 onwards AS FITTED TO 2011 ONWARDS MODELS TO FIT TO MODELS FROM 2007 FIXING HOLES FROM ORIGINAL SEAL NEED ENLARGING Contents / Part numbers.. - 1 x GENUINE PARTS DOOR SEAL...

www.ebay.co.uk

they changed the design so the lower seal was on the bottom of the door and not the sill rail - was a bad design get ripped as you get in/out - they. initially just had a rubber strip on the bottom of the door (crap also) but by the time they got to the puma they had what looks like a proper seal that went round the bottom of the door - you can fit to the older doors by drilling new holes but have to pull it round at the corners carefully as the old doors are not curved like the puma doors.

same for the strip that goes round the sides/top, buy geniune rubber anything massive difference in quality.

Seaswood · Jun 9, 2024

Old bulkhead was removed & the arch for clutch diaphragm on bulkhead cut of for fitting to replacement TD-5 version. And under Left side wing the frame needs welding need pulling out of wooden shed.

Hopefully this will be finished this week & frame can be welded.
Friend does good metal work worth waiting for!

Steering assembly removal/Bulkhead

Hicap phill

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Land Rover Defender Puma TDCI Front Door Lower Rubber Seal GENUINE LR029309LR | eBay

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