Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,237
- Location
- Wiltshire
This shows the fuse box side.only photo I got
Steering assembly removal/Bulkhead
- Thread starter Seaswood
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Seaswood
Active Member
- Posts
- 231
- Location
- Falmouth New England
Any advice getting the wiring blocks apart?
Otherwise I pull on them daily add some oil been fourty years since installed.
Otherwise I pull on them daily add some oil been fourty years since installed.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,237
- Location
- Wiltshire
That’s the way…..
Seaswood
Active Member
- Posts
- 231
- Location
- Falmouth New England
Just about ready pull it all through.
Being prepared enough to label things is cheating. You need to be trying to remember where everything goes from blurry photographs and matching wiring colours from a black and white wiring diagram to get the proper wiring loom experience.
Seaswood
Active Member
- Posts
- 231
- Location
- Falmouth New England
If you read wiring diagrams they change colors at the blocks sometimes, so be it.
I pulled those wires through bulkhead will be able to unwrap check all wires.
I was looking through boxes & boxes of unmarked parts looking for door hinges 2 got lost.
I pulled those wires through bulkhead will be able to unwrap check all wires.
I was looking through boxes & boxes of unmarked parts looking for door hinges 2 got lost.
Seaswood
Active Member
- Posts
- 231
- Location
- Falmouth New England
Is there a good place to break steering shaft, does it matter which spline they all appear tight fitting into a split fittings. Maybe I just need different tool to spread joint.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,237
- Location
- Wiltshire
Chisel in the split of the joint. You can then knock the steering thing(between the 2joints)
To shrink it and remove from steering box
To shrink it and remove from steering box
As above remove the clamping bolt, and chisel the joint apart. you need to remove both bolts and chisel both halves of the joint so that there is enough movement to slide the joint on the shaft to remove from either the box or the column. It is also important to fully remove the bolt not just loosen as there is a notch in the shaft the bolt sits in to will prevent the joint moving even if the clamp has been removed.
Seaswood
Active Member
- Posts
- 231
- Location
- Falmouth New England
Okay my mistake as I did not remove the bolt it was just loosened.
I work with wood chisels but I get the idea something to spread joint.
I work with wood chisels but I get the idea something to spread joint.
Seaswood
Active Member
- Posts
- 231
- Location
- Falmouth New England
I did need to get wheels off ground to turn the shaft/wheels.
Last edited:
Seaswood
Active Member
- Posts
- 231
- Location
- Falmouth New England
Seaswood
Active Member
- Posts
- 231
- Location
- Falmouth New England
Door sills the lower galvanized is britpart, does not include the outside sealing lip on original.
Is that lip riveted onto the sill or are they welded.
Either way not included with the Britpart version.
Is that lip riveted onto the sill or are they welded.
Either way not included with the Britpart version.
Seaswood
Active Member
- Posts
- 231
- Location
- Falmouth New England
The door seals I have are sides & top, bottom seal should be on sill I thought?
I will see if that edge is riveted on?
I will see if that edge is riveted on?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,237
- Location
- Wiltshire
Get the lower seals that go on doors.
The ones on the sills can get dirty & leave marks on the trousers when you leg touches them.
it's these ones
Land Rover Defender Puma TDCI Front Door Lower Rubber Seal GENUINE LR029309LR | eBay
LAND ROVER DEFENDER 90 110 130 GENUINE PARTS FRONT BOTTOM DOOR LOWER SEAL Suitable for.. - Defender 90, 110, 130 models 2007 onwards AS FITTED TO 2011 ONWARDS MODELS TO FIT TO MODELS FROM 2007 FIXING HOLES FROM ORIGINAL SEAL NEED ENLARGING Contents / Part numbers.. - 1 x GENUINE PARTS DOOR SEAL...
www.ebay.co.uk
they changed the design so the lower seal was on the bottom of the door and not the sill rail - was a bad design get ripped as you get in/out - they. initially just had a rubber strip on the bottom of the door (crap also) but by the time they got to the puma they had what looks like a proper seal that went round the bottom of the door - you can fit to the older doors by drilling new holes but have to pull it round at the corners carefully as the old doors are not curved like the puma doors.
same for the strip that goes round the sides/top, buy geniune rubber anything massive difference in quality.
Seaswood
Active Member
- Posts
- 231
- Location
- Falmouth New England
Old bulkhead was removed & the arch for clutch diaphragm on bulkhead cut of for fitting to replacement TD-5 version. And under Left side wing the frame needs welding need pulling out of wooden shed.
Hopefully this will be finished this week & frame can be welded.
Friend does good metal work worth waiting for!
Hopefully this will be finished this week & frame can be welded.
Friend does good metal work worth waiting for!
Similar threads
