Steering assembly removal/Bulkhead

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Seaswood

Seaswood

Active Member
Posts
231
Location
Falmouth New England
all the bolts for steering are removed except the link to lower arm & bracket to bulkhead it is all getting loose.
appears the only other points of attachment appear to be the long bolts at bottom to frame & one bracket each side frame to bulkhead.
some other bits brake valve splitter accelerator need to remove.

What is the main determining factor of fore aft measurement when replacing bulkhead?
I believe there were washers on the long bolts bolted to frame.
or are the bracket’s from frame good measurement for refitting bulkhead?
IMG_4630.jpeg
 
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For the steering column you have the bolt inside behind the dash clocks as well as the outside ones you have highlighted.

To align the bulkhead you need the tub fitted as the tub as no adjustment and all alignment measurement is taken off the tub.

You have two planes of adjustment at th bulkhead itself. You have forward and backward movement as you have stated by adding and removing washes between the bottom of the bulkhead and the outrigger. Just note there is no guarantee you will need the same number on both sides so each side should be treated in isolation.

You can the adjust the “slant” of the bulkhead to make sure the bulkhead runs parallel with the rear tub by pivoting (only very slight) the bulkhead around the lower bolts using the slotted holes on the brackets that run to the chassis legs.

Britanica restoration has a very good video video on bulkhead and door alignment. Which I followed when I replaced my bulkhead recently. When I am not on my phone I will try and get you the link as I think I posted it to my rebuild thread.
 
I watch Britanica when ever I can a lot of information.
Steering bolts I took out I put back in to hold bulkhead until everything is removed.
then the wiring.
Thnx makes sense.
 
Yes I see those slots.

the TD5 ? Bulkhead I have for replacement does not have what would be nuts in bulkhead to bolt up the diesel fuel filter.
what is the best source to install nuts in steel?
these of which do not look original.
IMG_4632.jpeg
 
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Seaswood said:
Thank you

I got the wind screen off today 1984 PU I doubt it had ever moved.
One of the hinges broke aluminum corrosion the other will need to free up.
Click to expand...
You can get stainless rivnuts which is what I used for a couple of the places on my bulkhead replacement where they were missing. They are slightly harder to install than the ali versions as they require more force to rivet into place to start with but there should be no issues with the bolt seizing in them in the future and causing the fitting to spin rather than unscrew. I also used stainless bolts for non structural things like the filter.
 
dag019 said:
You can get stainless rivnuts which is what I used for a couple of the places on my bulkhead replacement where they were missing. They are slightly harder to install than the ali versions as they require more force to rivet into place to start with but there should be no issues with the bolt seizing in them in the future and causing the fitting to spin rather than unscrew. I also used stainless bolts for non structural things like the filter.
Click to expand...
Ah yes, the liberation of the captive nuts. As they are usually hidden not only behind the sheet metal but the component they are securing, it is best to draw a veil over the subsequent suffering.
 
Seaswood said:
these of which do not look original.
Click to expand...
Looking at the pic again the two rivnuts fitted may well be original as I am sure that is how it was fitted form the factory. (I am not as familiar with td5 so happy to be corrected but certainly tdi was). If they are in the correct place and fit the filter I would just reuse them and save any hassle trying to remove and refit. i assume the two larger holes had gromets fitted?
 
That picture is original bulkhead, those nuts I believe were added.
Unless there would of been a gas filter in same place as diesel filter.
Because when I got the truck over ten years ago I did remove a gasoline filter in R rear wheel arch.
I will post picture of replacement bulkhead later, of which I will need to cut a hole for the wiring.
The fastener for transmission tunnel will be cut off original bulkhead.
IMG_4067.jpeg
 
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the replacement bulkhead uses a full rubber insert as below TD-5 to use the older style the holes for the screws could be drilled out. Is there any benefit to using the rubber insert seems everything would need to go through the center hole?
IMG_4643.jpeg
This is older style in original bulkhead,
IMG_4641.jpeg
 
Seaswood said:
I was thinking that was a double wall would get stuck, well the hard jobs are easy the easy jobs are difficult.
Click to expand...
Main loom goes to the fuse box & other cables go up past the lower dash then run on top under plastic tray.
Cables inside engine bay are tied back.

No double wall as I remeber….
 
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