Steep learning curve

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Which outrigger is it? I can't remember which one/s I keep thinking that your rear R/H body mount outrigger needs attention as does the back of sill outrigger?

I've just searched through 55 pages and can't find the pictures :oops:

If I am right I would say that you can better lop the back body outrigger off entirely and plate the chassis and then re-weld the outrigger once located via the bolt, and it it is the rear of the sill then slice out the grotty bit and weld in a new piece and dress it to suit.
 
Thank you. You are correct and this was my thinking also. If I prop the rear sill heavily and keep the chassis propped as is I can unbolt mount chop it out at factory joins then weld back on. Cheers
 
Cradle bracket made. The tabs are so I can weld little straps to underside as per oem. However, instead of going flat under the dinitrol hole as standard I have decided to go right up onto the cross member and cover it. I've just measured up and I'm circa 2mm out on mounting holes. Should be enough give in the aftermarket cradle to suit this I hope. What do you expect modelling the lot from card lol. I also beefed up te angled straps and made them little shark fins.
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3 passes on that centre weld as per @dieseldog69 comment earlier in thread. Started with a root and banged one overlap above and one below
 
You got it. Don't know how good they'll be but will it through mot atleast haha. I've just been painting and priming bits last night as got a parcel today. What is odd is the rear suspension bolt kit I got seems to have two massive bolts and nuts left. Big black ones that are thicker than the radius arm bolts? I have my a frame bolts, top mount bracket bolts but not sure on these. Thing I need some washers got shocks too. Shocks can wait anyways. I haven't checked that mount that bolts to sill mounted out rigger. Might need an other froggats kit and do same as near side. I haven't been on fender for some time so will probably take my welder up there this weekend
 
dieseldog69 said:
My mate Paul had them on his D1 for years, only ones that wore were the panhard rod but no drama as they can be changed with no special tools on the drive ;)

Ticking along nicely :)
Click to expand...

Am I alright with a standard panhard? In the past I've bought white line adjustable for lowering vehicles but guess the lift would knock out panhard alignment too? @Hicap phill do you use red rubber grease on your bushes? I've smeared a little silicone but they're obviously only light fitted to arms at the moment to stop bits getting lost
 
dieseldog69 said:
My mate Paul had them on his D1 for years, only ones that wore were the panhard rod but no drama as they can be changed with no special tools on the drive ;)

Ticking along nicely :)
Click to expand...
That's good news - James seemed to think they were ok too. Full set was under 100 quid. Have you any pics of the shock washer and bush makeup? I know the conical ones go in top to replace the hour glass shaped bush then two cylinders in bottom just not 100 on washer locations
 
resto_d1 said:
That's good news - James seemed to think they were ok too. Full set was under 100 quid. Have you any pics of the shock washer and bush makeup? I know the conical ones go in top to replace the hour glass shaped bush then two cylinders in bottom just not 100 on washer locations
Click to expand...
 

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I only smear copper grease on every thing. Nuts/bolts/rubbers anything not internal to engine/gearbox.
Don't worry about an adjustable panard hopefully your not going that high to cause probs ;)
 
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