- Posts
- 9,105
- Location
- Roaming the UK on assignments
Remember the template making from earlier?
Use the body mount and work your way back, you can still use the string line and your mounts as a datum line to centre your template.
Steep learning curve
- Thread starter resto_d1
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Remember the template making from earlier?
Use the body mount and work your way back, you can still use the string line and your mounts as a datum line to centre your template.
- Posts
- 9,105
- Location
- Roaming the UK on assignments
Essentially, yes, if you then use the string line as a means of transferring the centre line to the template and then all you have to do is match the lines to ensure it is level.That's 9ne of those things that's hard to understand in text
What you have just made me think is I butt a template into the outrigger base and find the holes then transfer to other side?
Gotcha. I can do that. Don't know why I didn't think of card lol. I was scratching me head for ages haha.
Welding went beautifully. Gloves are bang on, clamp is good and new reel feeding perfectly. You can see where the inner fillet dug in
- Posts
- 9,105
- Location
- Roaming the UK on assignments
Not quite yet but not far off!! Need to fab up my boot supports and get a rear crossmember inclusive of the rear body mounts. I also have to chop out and re weld cross member and get a new mount for it.We did the card template for the nearside
Boot floor next.
- Posts
- 9,105
- Location
- Roaming the UK on assignments
I've got some quick patch work to do on the rear cross member to get it through the MOT but it really needs to be either removed and repaired properly or replaced, am airing on replacement but I would rather just get it through the MOT and do it properly in the summer, or at least when the weather is better, although, at the speed I'm going with it there is a good chance it will be summer before I get the boot floor and off side sill welded up
I've got some quick patch work to do on the rear cross member to get it through the MOT but it really needs to be either removed and repaired properly or replaced, am airing on replacement but I would rather just get it through the MOT and do it properly in the summer, or at least when the weather is better, although, at the speed I'm going with it there is a good chance it will be summer before I get the boot floor and off side sill welded up
Mine barely exists!!! Just a shadow of its former self lol
- Posts
- 83,282
- Location
- Embasinga stocæ
I can recommend the YRM rear xmember, however it can be a bugger to replace.... acro jacks and rear qtr panels off .
I paid someone to do mine - £700 labour to do xmember and ns sill.
.I paid someone to do mine - £700 labour to do xmember and ns sill.
- Posts
- 9,105
- Location
- Roaming the UK on assignments
I can recommend the YRM rear xmember, however it can be a bugger to replace.... acro jacks and rear qtr panels off
I paid someone to do mine - £700 labour to do xmember and ns sill.
I have to money but being tighter than a ducks arze, I literally squeak when I walk, besides, takes the fun out of ownership if I don't do it myself LOLZ
My rear quarters are off anyways and I am 50% there on talking myself into just getting on with it
- Posts
- 83,282
- Location
- Embasinga stocæ
its not only the doorframe splaying, its the back dropping as well, and needs to be supported, hence accroprops to support thru rear quarterlights.
Lots of messing then hot stuff...
Turns out the britpart seat doesn't match the existing seat who'd thought it - britpart part not being exactly the same..
What matters of course is the ID and top plate. Which worked.
I measured and tweaked over and over. It worked out 145mm from underside of seat to my string line.
I took a measurement off rear x member from the other side then got the centre of other side. I then transferred centre line to new side. I did my best. I hope it's pretty accurate. The springs won't even notice if I'm a couple mm out.
I tacked it on, measured again, was happy enough so blazed it in. Both sides of the t joint. The silver is just so I could see my lining up marks.
Turns out the britpart seat doesn't match the existing seat
who'd thought it - britpart part not being exactly the same..What matters of course is the ID and top plate. Which worked.
I measured and tweaked over and over. It worked out 145mm from underside of seat to my string line.
I took a measurement off rear x member from the other side then got the centre of other side. I then transferred centre line to new side. I did my best. I hope it's pretty accurate. The springs won't even notice if I'm a couple mm out.
I tacked it on, measured again, was happy enough so blazed it in. Both sides of the t joint. The silver is just so I could see my lining up marks.
- Posts
- 83,282
- Location
- Embasinga stocæ
Superb work.
Thank you. Glad the welding went so well at such a crucial stage. This was the scariest part of the build for me. Hopefully I've got it right!
- Posts
- 9,105
- Location
- Roaming the UK on assignments
Top man, looks good, see that my guidance was of some help after all
- Posts
- 9,105
- Location
- Roaming the UK on assignments
Looks good from here, if you are in doubt then over lay some beads and use the current weld as a root pass
Yes thanks for help. No doubt with the welds - they went perfectlyLooks good from here, if you are in doubt then over lay some beads and use the current weld as a root pass
Just been thinking about next move. I can't carry on where I am without replacing the outrigger bush and perhaps mount on sill (haven't checked but bound to be shot). Then I can chop out my out rigger and relocate knowing it lines up.
I'm thinking I'll do my crush tubes next and put a lid on that which takes me to the trapeze on round rear member.
I
I'll then attack the fuel tank cradle section. Bottom feels crispy and make up a new bracket. That then means I can shut the chassis up and get wax in as soon as possible
I'm thinking I'll do my crush tubes next and put a lid on that which takes me to the trapeze on round rear member.
I
I'll then attack the fuel tank cradle section. Bottom feels crispy and make up a new bracket. That then means I can shut the chassis up and get wax in as soon as possible
I should have taken a few more pictures today. The defender was sat there and it was a nasty morning so I went to work on it. There was a pile of yrm parts there. All folded and welded to a lovely standard. Will definitely be using their gear on disco.
I drilled out the spot welds holding the n/s outer vent surround in then chopped away. The inner skin isn't great. I'd planned to weld in the outer skins today but, I'm going to build up the inside then out. I'm working from top to down. I don't know if that's how you lot have done it but it was the only order I could see working the meant I wasn't doing sacrificial welding.
I've no z piece so did the following with the metal I have. I'll then weld another angle in to make the z. I now have clean metal to run a whole section off corner to corner.
I drilled out the spot welds holding the n/s outer vent surround in then chopped away. The inner skin isn't great. I'd planned to weld in the outer skins today but, I'm going to build up the inside then out. I'm working from top to down. I don't know if that's how you lot have done it but it was the only order I could see working the meant I wasn't doing sacrificial welding.
I've no z piece so did the following with the metal I have. I'll then weld another angle in to make the z. I now have clean metal to run a whole section off corner to corner.
