Steep learning curve

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Dixie1985 said:
I don't know much in regards to pressurised equipment so probably wrong but I thought the fact that the tanks were cylindrical had something to do with it's effectiveness. Also if you could/did pressurise a section of sill and then ruptured it while off reading wouldn't the resulting pressure release be dangerous for any occupant?
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If I am busting through 3 layered welds and 3.6mm wall I think the rapid escape of 100psi through that split is the least of my worries, but having said that the pressure would be beneath the vehicle and there would still be a floor pan and carpets between us.
 
dieseldog69 said:
If I am busting through 3 layered welds and 3.6mm wall I think the rapid escape of 100psi through that split is the least of my worries, but having said that the pressure would be beneath the vehicle and there would still be a floor pan and carpets between us.
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If your that stuck that your smashing up that box section maybe you could do with a little lift :D
 
dieseldog69 said:
If I am busting through 3 layered welds and 3.6mm wall I think the rapid escape of 100psi through that split is the least of my worries, but having said that the pressure would be beneath the vehicle and there would still be a floor pan and carpets between us.
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At this point I'm sure your knowledge surpasses mine in this area. So please correct me if im incorrect. But after reading a little yes the cylindrical effect of the bottles does make a difference of not causing a concentration of force as a cuboid would. Now however unlikely it would be to rupture 3.6mm with layered welds is. Sometimes the oddest s**t happens. And yes pressure would be beneath the vehicle but 100psi bursting out is likely to cause damage and possibly shrapnel and a piece of metal flying with 100psi worth of pressure I'm sure would be capable of puncturing the floor pan and carpet.
I'm not trying to slate this idea as I think if doable safely it is pure genius. But as I've not had a sill apart on a disco yet. Is there enough size to have a cylindrical vessel slid inside of the sill? Would provide extra thickness to prevent a rupture also removing any concentration of pressure created by a Cuboid configuration.
 
From what I can see on the froggats image the outer sill overlaps the rear mount repair panel. So how do I avoid a gap between outer and inner?!

Screenshot_20180706-183215.jpg
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Dixie1985 said:
At this point I'm sure your knowledge surpasses mine in this area. So please correct me if im incorrect. But after reading a little yes the cylindrical effect of the bottles does make a difference of not causing a concentration of force as a cuboid would. Now however unlikely it would be to rupture 3.6mm with layered welds is. Sometimes the oddest s**t happens. And yes pressure would be beneath the vehicle but 100psi bursting out is likely to cause damage and possibly shrapnel and a piece of metal flying with 100psi worth of pressure I'm sure would be capable of puncturing the floor pan and carpet.
I'm not trying to slate this idea as I think if doable safely it is pure genius. But as I've not had a sill apart on a disco yet. Is there enough size to have a cylindrical vessel slid inside of the sill? Would provide extra thickness to prevent a rupture also removing any concentration of pressure created by a Cuboid configuration.
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I'm doing it now just to see what happens :cool:

resto_d1 said:
No it doesn't. Ignore me
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I think you've been out in the sun too long. :p
 
Haha I was looking at a froggats picture somewhere and was sure I saw an overlap but it's not possible. Again, making a landrover more complicated than it is in my head! Going to match the sill lengths to mount then but repair panel up to it. You Think I need to cap them the sill then put the lower repair panel over That? Might aswell as wouldn't hurt.
 
resto_d1 said:
Haha I was looking at a froggats picture somewhere and was sure I saw an overlap but it's not possible. Again, making a landrover more complicated than it is in my head! Going to match the sill lengths to mount then but repair panel up to it. You Think I need to cap them the sill then put the lower repair panel over That? Might aswell as wouldn't hurt.
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Yeah, cap the sill, then seam weld the panel onto the cap.
 
Had a hungover afternoon on it. Chassis welding doesn't look too pretty. I think it was due yo awkward positions. I smacked it with a hammer and it's solid, just ugly. Sills went way better. Wish I'd managed that on chassis. Did a bit more resisting too. Got another bilt hamber order on the way. I didn't weld the shock patch on the chassis up as I'm going to fill the thing with wax first.
20180708_174241.jpg
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20180708_165923.jpg
 
resto_d1 said:
Chassis welding doesn't look too pretty.

I didn't weld the shock patch on the chassis up as I'm going to fill the thing with wax first
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1) Grinding and flap discs hide a multitude of sins ;)

2) I wouldn't if I were you, it's hard to put out when it sets itself afire inside the chassis rail, patch it and use the dinitrol/waxoyl wand through one of the holes in the chassis rail to protect it from the inside.
 
That was after flap disc lol. Never mind. I just like things to look nice. I did wonder if it was flammable haha I will wait until afterwards cheers. Feels like it's starting to get somewhere now. I have to do those boot box section bits I showed you, a patch in the roof, a patch around that window, finish the arch then the rear near is done!! I thought other side was worse - may be on chassis but the body repairs don't look so bad. Far less arch to do
 
I dont know how big your welder is, but smaller non fan cooled ones can't do much om higher settings before they get warm inside and splutter. I used to have a clarke mig 90 i think and on max settings you could only weld around 6" before it needed 10 mins to cool down again
 
It's one of the 160 te Clarke jobs. It seems up to it and hasn't gone to cool down mode. In hindsight, I should have done all I could to make myself comfy as possible. It was the awkward leaning etc that made it look rubbish
 
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