Starting problems

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In the words of James may "oh c_ck" its not that then.
Does any one know how to trick the car into thinking its -5oC so I could then test to see if it will start everytime with the glow light coming on.
Where is the engine air temp sensor fitted?
What is the sensor that is poking out of the intercooler pipe facing the radiator (in front of you as you lift the bonnet)?
The only reason I ask is this has some oil around it.
 
Pepe said:
In the words of James may "oh c_ck" its not that then.
Does any one know how to trick the car into thinking its -5oC so I could then test to see if it will start everytime with the glow light coming on.
Where is the engine air temp sensor fitted?
What is the sensor that is poking out of the intercooler pipe facing the radiator (in front of you as you lift the bonnet)?
The only reason I ask is this has some oil around it.
Click to expand...
poor starting on td4 is most common 1. . . .fuel filter blocked 2. . . .poor or contaminated fuel 3 . . . .glow plugs 4 fuel pump leccy bits 5 fuel pump [normally rear one or under rear wheel arch] 6 . . . . .cam sensor [gulp] 7 high pressure pump common rail problems [rare] bout sums it up really. . . .if you can pin it to one o list then we can help further earthling. . . .we are tryin ta help :) :) :)
 
Been doing some digging yes I have drove the bu*ger into the hole and filled it again !!
On some other sites i have visited a couple of other options have jumped out and I was wondering if these make any sense.
1) MAF sensor ?
2) Relay mounted behind fuse box which powers up when engine is cranking?

Ming..... Its a good job you don't have a TD4 in your spaceship !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Pepe said:
Been doing some digging yes I have drove the bu*ger into the hole and filled it again !!
On some other sites i have visited a couple of other options have jumped out and I was wondering if these make any sense.
1) MAF sensor ?
2) Relay mounted behind fuse box which powers up when engine is cranking?

Ming..... Its a good job you don't have a TD4 in your spaceship !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
poor startin un [1] no [2] no. . . . .
 
More questions,
What is the black plastic round shaped thingy next to the fuel filter mounted in the rear wheel arch ? is it a water trap for the fuel?
What is the little electric valve mounted to the chassis on the inner LH side behind wheel in the engine bay its in one of the fuel lines???
The car seems to have taken a turn for the worst now it sometimes does not start first time from cold. Glow plugs ??
Also what I have noitced it seems to always be correcting itself on the throttle it feels like something is pulling it back.

I forgot to mention last time I changed the fuel filter myself, the one mounted in the rear wheel arch what a cow of a job !
While it was down I checked the elec pump and yes it works so not that..............

How much does a freelander weigh? whats the price of scrap at mo?? :))
 
Its the later type filter and I have changed that again to see if it was the problem, but not !!!
Does anyone know if the glow warning light does not come on when you go to start do the glowplugs still work ? or do they only work with the dash light on ???
Is there a inlet manifold heater ?
 
Pepe said:
Its the later type filter and I have changed that again to see if it was the problem, but not !!!
Does anyone know if the glow warning light does not come on when you go to start do the glowplugs still work ? or do they only work with the dash light on ???
Is there a inlet manifold heater ?
Click to expand...

Interesting thread, I have had a similar problem with my 2002 TD4, changed the fuel filter, seemed ok at first, but problem is still there. Ran a tank well doped up with Redex Injector cleaner, no difference. Now filled up tank with BP deisel Ultimate, seems fine now, fingers crossed.

Note: not exactly same problem, but was dying on me at junctions & dodgy tickover. Hard to re-start & white deisel fumes on re-starting. Also it hated being in slow moving traffic, 20-30 mph, often died on me in that situation - nightmare!! Anyone else any other suggestions? I can here fuel pumps running, is it possible to check fuel pumps themselves by removing?

Cheers,
 
This is so interesting I have a TD4 04. I have only just got it 2 weeks or so and not had a problem starting from cold glow plug light comes on and it fires. My wife uses it in the afternoon and had many a problem starting from a luke warm engine.
I too would like to ask does the glow plugs come on even if the glow plug light is not on. If not how do I bypass the temp sensor so they will.
Ming I will go through you list as described. What I would like to add is that I have upgraded the ECU with a maff compensator and more BHP and the problem was stll the same so I don’t think “No O level in mechanics” its that. Its worth putting one on though when you get it sorted it feels a different car.

Stephen
 
cold comfort farm said:
This is so interesting I have a TD4 04. I have only just got it 2 weeks or so and not had a problem starting from cold glow plug light comes on and it fires. My wife uses it in the afternoon and had many a problem starting from a luke warm engine.
I too would like to ask does the glow plugs come on even if the glow plug light is not on. If not how do I bypass the temp sensor so they will.
Ming I will go through you list as described. What I would like to add is that I have upgraded the ECU with a maff compensator and more BHP and the problem was stll the same so I don’t think “No O level in mechanics” its that. Its worth putting one on though when you get it sorted it feels a different car.

Stephen
Click to expand...
even if yor glow plug light do's not come on, the glow plugs still work . . . .
 
Whats the best type to fit if replacing them ? Bosch ? What sort of a job is it to change? where are they mounted ? (Down the back of the engine by the bulkhead if the Land Rover design team had anything to do with it !!!!!) LOL
 
Pepe said:
Whats the best type to fit if replacing them ? Bosch ? What sort of a job is it to change? where are they mounted ? (Down the back of the engine by the bulkhead if the Land Rover design team had anything to do with it !!!!!) LOL
Click to expand...
Best to check glow plugs out first . . . .strip orft engine cowell ,disconnect first cable to first glow plug [wired in series] check each one in ohms to good earth to make sure none are open circuit ,should all be roughly the same reading, if you have one u/s at this stage change the lot [best to have em ready] if they all check out good in ohms, then put all cables back put an volt meter on any glow plug cable i/p to earth ,get a mate to turn on ignition, should get about 12 volts . . . .start it . . . .and should switch orft with slight delay. . . .bout it really :) :) :)
 
Hmm Not sorted yet, I think it could be the battery, reason being is I checked the voltage of batt and its 12.5 volts. if before you start the car you leave the fans on inside the voltage drops to around 11.2v. I think this might be enough to drop the ECU out. so I am running tests at moment and every time the car is started and no Aux circuits are used she starts. . . . Or I have been very lucky. I have been trying to follow a pattern and this is the one that seems to be common.
I did try to change the glow plugs, Hmmm what a job.... I have No 1 & 4 cylinder with sheared off plugs as they were seized in.

Will let you know if my findings are positive............


(Wheres the best place to take it for scrap value!!!!)
 
Cold,
Have you got the same problem as me?? Check with a jump lead the earth cable, conect one end to the neg on batt and the other on the engine/gearbox and see if that works.
Have you replaced cam sensor?
when it does not start try to disconect the MAF (mass air flow) sensor its located at the on the top of the intake pipe just after the air filter, then see if she starts.

Other checks I have been told are to disconnect the injector leak off pipe (remove silly engine cowl first) and block the return pipe to the tank, switch on ignition and see if you have any leakage.
check the common rail pressure sensor electrical conection for corrosion.
one other thing I have been told is to get main line fuel pressure checked.

have you any diffrent findings.

P.S do you have any oil around the sensor on the intake pipe just to your left as you open the bonnet ??? (sensor mounted above the engine oil filter)
 
Not done much yet. I have had an upgrade on the maff sensor to boost the signal apart from that I have got the new fuel filter but not put it on yet. I was hoping you would have found it. Its a pig cos it only happens when your miles from home and usually in a suit.

Stephen
 
Right, I had enough and it went to the local landy stealer, fuel pressures ok, both pumps working, no codes, the advice came back was to try changing common rail wiring harness - some of these get dry joints, take injectors out and check at fuel shop.

A tip he gave was when removing injectors they can be a bar steward so put a drop of coca cola around the top of them and leave over night this eats into the corrosion... I have yet to try it so not sure if he is pulling my ****er !!!!!!
 
Pepe said:
put a drop of coca cola around the top of them and leave over night this eats into the corrosion... I have yet to try it so not sure if he is pulling my ****er !!!!!!
Click to expand...

tis a reasonably well known trick. put an old copper penny in a glass of coke overnight and see what happens. Might work ok.

Now have same problem with starting. Always used to start 1st turn of the key, barely turning over before it was running. Came back in this morning, let it stand for and hour, and it takes three or four goes to get it started, then it runs fine.

Haven't tried it from cold yet though.
 
reet, dun't start from cold at all. brittania rescue guy came out and said rear fuel pump, trouble is, can't get to it 'cos cars down the side of the 'ouse, and it's an auto, so I can't move it on the starter, looks like a call to my local friendly independent in the morning.....

(watch this space)
 
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