Disco 2 starting issue now a running issue too

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Yorkie57

Active Member
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152
Having had starting issues which were only when cold to begin with but then progressed to hot and cold after being left for more than 30 mins today I have had running issues too. The glow plugs were changed about two weeks ago by the way.

Went to work this morning, after about a mile the car started to misfire badly and then died and wouldn't start. Sat by the roadside and rang the RAC and after about 5 mins of being on the phone to them decided to try again and after several attempts the car started with a misfire which cleared after about 10 seconds and then drove normally.

About a mile later same thing happened again, misfire which worsened followed by engine dying and refusing to start. As I had cancelled the RAC I rang them again and by the time I had finished the call after much cranking the engine started again just as before and I managed to drive home without any more problems and cancel the RAC for a second time.

Changed the fuel filter with a genuine Land Rover one this evening, went through the purging routine and the car fired first turn of the key. Happy days I thought, just go for a test drive and exactly the same as above happened.

Finally got home after two breakdowns, did the purging routine and the car started again. I could hear the fuel pump whining though which I have never heard before.

Any suggestions would be gratefully received, one other thing when starting this morning there has been a cloud of Blue/White smoke but this evening it was Black smoke.

Thanks in advance.

Y
 
Injector washers leaking combustion gas into the fuel rail is my guess as you describe it, this can affect compression too so the smoke... especially if there are no fault codes logged, though it would be good to plug in a tester before you replace everything by guessing
 
Thanks your input as always very much appreciated.

I see this more as a gradual deterioration of "something" as it started as difficult to start when cold and progressed to difficult to start any time. Then following on from that the cutting out issue.

I can see your point but this is more (to me) a fuel starvation issue caused either by loss of pressure in the fuel system or air ingress.

Combustion gas into the fuel rail (I would assume) would affect running all the time as well as starting but until the engine dies it runs normally and pulls very well.

Thanks again for your reply.

Cheers

Y
 
What you described, as you described it with that intermittence and gradual deterioration is classic symptom of injector washers failure though....provided there are no crank sensor related fault codes logged
 
Update, I had bought the spout for the return pipe to the tank from the fuel filter with the non-return valve in it and fitted it tonight as I had it anyway. Took the old one off and there was no valve in it??? Anyway made no real difference, went through priming routine and car started first turn of the key. Left it running but after about 5 mins it died and refused to start again without going through the priming routine again at which point it started again first turn of the key, ran for about 5 mins and then died again. I have noticed the fuel pump is still making a really loud whining noise which it never did before almost as if it is sucking in air from somewhere. Not sure if this is significant but all of this has only started since I had the fuel pipes from the tank to the filter replaced a couple of months ago and then a service. Never had a diesel before and very much respect the knowledge offered but to me this points to an air leak somewhere between the fuel filter and the tank which makes me wonder about those pipes. Incidentally no smoke whatsoever when starting or running tonight.
 
The system is under pressure, in case of a leak it would leave fuel out not air in... the supposed air in the system is combustion gas which passed the injector washers and got into the return circuit IMO...the issue has no clear patter cos it's compression dependant so it will vary according how the engine have ran... i insist that IF there are no fault codes logged this is about injector washers but check for codes first cos it can be a management issue too just that the symptom is very like leaking washers
 
Thanks, no EML light on and I don't have any way of reading any fault codes. I will go down the route you suggest, just as an aside why do you think was there no non-return valve in the outlet on the fuel filter?
It was the one at the back on the left as you look at it by the way.
Thanks for your help.
Y
 
If you speak about the air bleed valve (nr 7) it should have been there but the lack of it would make it only hard to start but once purged and started it should run OK, if you speak about a valve in connection nr 10 that's the non-return valve which was fitted only on some latest modells but it doesnt make any difference as early modells dont even had it from factory... also the fact that there's no EML warning is not relevant cos it comes on only on crank sensor or throttle position sensor complete failure that's all...the fault code reading would be important cos there are some management issues which could cause such symptoms and you can't rule them out other way... try to find somebody near you with a tester to help, there are many all over UK, put your location and ask help here on the forum
Td5 filter housing.jpg
 
As Sierra says, classic injector seals issue.
IMO Id do the seals first rather than waste time/money getting diagnostics done.
Check your oil level as well, although what you describe is prob the copper washers rather than the O rings.
When your injectors are out, have a VERY good look at the injector pockets, especially No1, they can crack, the crack is easy to see if you are looking for it.
Where are you located?
Mark
 
Thank Sierrafery for the e-mail.

Thanks Mark, I am in St.Ives, Cambs but the job looks a bit too technical for me so I will probably have the money pit recovered to a local garage:(

Either that or pay someone cash to do it.

Nick
 
Im in Biggleswade happy to help out, but Im going to be out of the country for a few weeks.
Its not a difficult job for a competent garage, ask them if they have done it before, make sure they use genuine parts, you could supply the parts to them.
Shouldnt be more than 1-2 hours work max.
Mark
 
Thanks Peter/Mark for your replies.
I will have it trailered to the garage I use and will print off the "how to" so they know what they are doing.
Have already ordered genuine LR parts from Rimmers.
Cheers,
Y
 
Fingers crossed then!
Ask them to be careful (in other words, use a torque wrench!) when tightening down the rocker shaft bolts, they snap of over tightened.
And ask them not to mix up the injectors.
Mark
 
Finally got it to a garage Monday 21st took 40 mins to do 4 miles died three times and I had to do the bleed routine every time. Been there ever since, went up today to see how they were doing and have been told they have had it out for a 10 mile run without any problems but the next day it died after a mile but re-started without any problems. Also had it ticking over in the workshop for 30 mins without conking out. The fuel pump apparently makes a lot of whining noises and according to a "specialist" may be the problem. I personally think it makes noises due to having air in the system but have been convinced to buy a new one. There was also a bit of oil in the ecu plug but this was cleaned out with no improvement. I have bought and supplied the garage with all new injector seals but they are saying they don't need replacing. Have now bought a new loom too but not sure where to go next with this problem.
 
for the last time,(especially that the pump is noisy): LEAKING INJECTOR WASHERS, though if those mechanics are insisting it's not that you should find some who know what they are doing cos a garage should have a gauge to measure fuel pressure before convincing a client to buy a pump
 
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