Spots Disco 2 ES Premium project.

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The switches are in!
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Again, sorry about the fingers! The suns always in the wrong place.....

Now I’ve just got to remember what I planned to do with this lot....

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Also still got to find a way through the bulkhead for these wires and a main live to the auxiliary fuse box I need to fit as part of this project..... any ideas greatfully received.
 
@dieseldog69 will be able to advise. He's recently done similar I believe unless my wires are crossed (see what I did there). Have you got all the lights etc mounted yet? How's she treating you mechanically? No sign of the 3 ami**s I hope
 
I recently fitted a whole new fuse and relay box to accommodate my headlight relays, air horns, diesel fuel heater and bonnet mounted lightbar.

I sourced directly from the battery with a 60A maxi fuse to protect the box running 10mm² cable.

You should find a cable gland in the bulkhead somewhere close to engine bay fuse box.
 
@resto_d1 thankfully the truck has been good to me so far with the only light coming on being the SRS light which only happens when I move the passenger seat. Nanocom says it’s the pretensioner on that seat but it corrects itself when the seat is moved back....

@dieseldog69 thanks for that, I’ll take a look for that grommet. I have a good idea what I’m doing with the wiring as I trained in electronics, it’s more the physical aspect of routing around the vehicle I’m finding ‘interesting’.

The posty made another delivery this morning....

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2 for each side, two for the back and two for the front light bar when I eventually buy/fit it.... still loads of work to do!
 
Got on with fitting some of the flood lights this afternoon.

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Both sides are done and wired to a waterproof plug on the roof rack with the wiring also in for the rear pair when I work out how to fit them.

I’m doing my best to keep the top of the roof rack as clear as possible other than bolt heads etc. Partly as it’s already proved useful for sheet timber etc but I’m also not excluding a roof tent in the future if I happen across one at the right time.

Tomorrow’s job is trying to install the main feed from the battery to the extra fuse box and then crack on with wiring the carling switches.
Then it’s time to work out the route from the roof rack, likely down the outside of the snorkel, into the cab and up to the switch panel.... plenty of work to keep me busy!
 
I like them, not keen on the roof rack full time but each to their own.

Are you using a full on fuse/relay box?

I found these.

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£8 on Amazon, great things, easily fitted if a bit fiddly doing the crimping on of proper terminals.

Fusebox.jpg
 
I ummed and aaarhed about the roofrack to start with but decided that I wanted 360 degree flood lighting, amber strobes/beacons and a couple of comms aerials so concluded this roofrack was the best option. I didn’t want a single roof bar at the back or something like that. It just looks untidy on what I’ve seen before. But as you say, each to their own.

I’ve got one of these fuse boxes;

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/192447833687

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I was tempted with something like yours but I’m going to hide it behind the panel under the steering wheel next to the original one to keep it out the way. The relays will go in the dash pod.
 
Spot1 said:
I ummed and aaarhed about the roofrack to start with but decided that I wanted 360 degree flood lighting, amber strobes/beacons and a couple of comms aerials so concluded this roofrack was the best option. I didn’t want a single roof bar at the back or something like that. It just looks untidy on what I’ve seen before. But as you say, each to their own.

I’ve got one of these fuse boxes;

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/192447833687

View attachment 154548

I was tempted with something like yours but I’m going to hide it behind the panel under the steering wheel next to the original one to keep it out the way. The relays will go in the dash pod.
Click to expand...

I had seen those fuse holders and considered them a few times but went with the combination box for ease of wiring and keeping things tidy and in one location. They are good though aren't they, the LED warning lamp for the blown fuse is a very good idea.
 
I was tempted by a combined fuse/relay box but it was mainly the size. I’ve got 8 circuits planned at present but 3 empty slots in the dash pod so decided to keep the fuse box small and put the relays elsewhere.
 
Gents, I'm self educating right now. After seeing what dd and yourself have done I thought I'd try and learn basics. Especially as I'll no doubt need them in future. Am I correct in saying you would install as per my drawing? Go easy as only just worked out how a relay works haha. Making myself a little note book through Google and YouTube research.
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In a word, no......

I don’t have any drawing implements available at present, I’ll sort something later.

Basically a relay is an electrical ‘switch’ in itself, on one side you have +ve and -ve the feed a coil which creates a small magnet field that closes a ‘switch’ which then completes a second circuit enabling it to work.

An example;
If you tap into the headlight main beam wire and link that to the +ve on the relay coil and the -ve you take to ground (chassis). This will energise the coil whenever the main beam is on therefore closing the ‘switch’.

On the other two contacts of the relay you have one (fused) coming from the battery +ve to the relay, then from the remaining pin on the relay you go to a flood light and from the flood light to the battery -ve. Here you have a circuit that is complete when the relay ‘switch’ is closed therefore when the main beam is on, the relay will close and the flood will come on.

Hope that made sense?

The big point of a relay is that for example, your headlight circuit is designed to take 2 x 65 watt head lights. If you added two 50w flood lights to this you’d keep blowing the headlight fuse/set fire to your truck however the relay only takes a tiny current to trigger the coil/switch to then switch the flood lights without overloading the original circuit.

Again, hope that makes sense. Drawings to follow later this evening.
 
Think of circles, electricity needs to start somewhere and finish somewhere and do something in between.

It starts at the battery does something at the relay/light/winch etc and goes back to the battery.

Going from the battery straight back th the battery is a short-circuit (bad, makes heat/fire)....

Just going through a switch/relay etc without starting and returning to a battery wont do anything.

Hope that makes sense?
 
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