I need to replace my Series 3 rear safari door. The aluminium panel is badly corroded because the internal steel frame is very badly rusted. To avoid this in the future I thought I would fit a galvanised -frame complete rear door from SP. Does anyone have any experience of these please? I wanted to use Paintman Panels but they only supply standard steel/aluminium units. I understand they are a bit more of a fiddle to prepare for painting as the frame is galvanised.
SP Galvanised Rear Door
- Thread starter Binks
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
splutter
Member
- Posts
- 24
- Location
- Ayrshire, Scotland
Fitted 2 front galvanised door bottoms and a rear safari door already Glazed without any problems, left them just a nice clean alloy finish with a coat of clear coat ( lacquer) over the top
I didn’t bother with high build primer but I was not going for a perfect finish. I was painting with a roller in a barn. My Land Rover is not exactly straight and I didn’t bother filling any of the dents etc either. Having said that I still achieved a reasonable finish.
Link to doors page of rebuild thread (you can see the finished painter doors on page 25)
Dunno if it's too late but I got a set of front and rear doors a couple weeks back from SP and the back one was okay but the front doors were very poor, skins not put on right, mounting holes for the hinges and door tops drilled in the wrong places and the welds sitting so proud that the cappings wouldn't fit.... It's been an ordeal trying to get them to admit the parts were faulty and I've since gotten doors from paintman panels which are far better.
Attachments
Vs the paintman doors
Attachments
LordOWar
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 460
- Location
- North West
I also have the paint man panels front doors. Not fitted them yet as they are in the pile of "done" bits.
I recently bought a Paintman Panels glazed door top and it fitted perfectly. I bought the rear door from SP because it has a galvanised steel frame and since it was the rusting steel frame that corroded my current door skin I saw this as the way forward (Paintman don’t supply galvanised rear doors). I was worried when I read your post but I see your rear door was fine. I hope mine will be as it is coming on Tuesday!
I wanted to fit galvanised rear door too but mine is a Series 3 with the brass guide block and, because I have spare on rear door have x3 rear hinges. SP could not do both but the Paintman one did (I'll put up with having to block the hole for extra lock with grommet).
One thing I have noticed is that there are no drain holes for the frame at the bottom (although my previous door rotted the aluminium below the window and the frame around the lock). Before I fit the door I was going to add a couple of drain holes in the lower frame , paint it and then fill the voids between the frame and skin with Waxoyl to slow the rotting process down.
Anyone got any other top tips (sarcastic suggestions re: galvanising are out!)
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,697
Built hambler dynax s50, not waxoil
Thanks for suggestions, where I applied Waxoyl in my old MGB box sections it lasted for 20 years, problem was the bits I missed!
I have some ACF 50 but that is more of a surface treatment and could get expensive.
I'll research the Dinitrol and Dynax S50
@Binks but they advised me that the door with the bracket for the block only has two hinges?
I have some ACF 50 but that is more of a surface treatment and could get expensive.
I'll research the Dinitrol and Dynax S50
@Binks but they advised me that the door with the bracket for the block only has two hinges?
