Soundproofing, insulation and do I need a headliner?

Hey all,

I am planning on soundproofing my defender and hopefully getting a free bit of insulation as well. This is my first winter in the 90 and not only is it cold n there but it's bloody noisy too!

Some questions, if you don't mind. All of this relates to my 2001, 90 station wagon. TD5.

I've currently either got or am planning to buy: flashing tape, 5 sqm of 10mm closed cell foam, 2sqm of 3mm closed cell foam, black carpet and light grey carpet. The plan was to put the thick foam and the black carpet up to the waistline of the car, so where it would stop if it was a pickup and then use the thinner foam and the grey carpet above that. I'd probably still use the thicker foam on the roof, just use the thinner stuff for the window sections. Sound like a good plan? What about the edge where the foam/carpet is cut out for the window? Should I just fold the carpet under the foam to avoid leaving the edge exposed?

As I am planning to insulate and carpet the rear section roof, I'd thought about pulling the headliner out and carpeting all the way to the front so that it all matches and because I'd like the insulation above my head. Will removing the headliner also remove the roof stuff like the interior light and the speakers? I cba to have to unwire and then replace it all so I'm wondering if it's fastened to the roof proper or to the headliner?

I was thinking about those engine blankets too? Are they a good idea generally? Apart from the sound and noise would it help my engine get up to temperature more quickly on these freezing cold mornings?

Sorry for all of the questions, but I'm really going through this car with a fine toothed comb and I'd hate to miss anything or do anything wrong. Any help on any of those questions or just some advice with regards to soundproofing and insulation would be lovely thanks.

Jack

op2:

I kept mine but that's a personal preference, I used camping mats and acoustic material





My light attaches to the roof with two screws and the wire runs to the top right of the windscreen and then down behind the plastic cover

Can't say it's made it any quieter as I run 265 km2's and have no soundproofing in the foot wells or the rear tub but it seems warmer and there's no condensation dripping if the roof.

Thanks Marmaduke, what did you do about the windows in you station wagon? I have visions of being able to see the edged of the foam. I notice that the edges around your alpine windows have been left, is that 'cos it's a chew on?

I have no idea if been busy fixing my heated seats lol you hang on in their

I was installing windows as well as putting in the roof liner





I managed to tuck the material into the rubber seal but I need to finish it off properly so when it's warmer I'll take the windows out and redo it

Bought my 2000MY Defender 90 TD5 last November and diesel noise inside was terrible.
Defender Diesel Interior noise comes from two major sources; Airborne into cab and Structure borne into cab.
Airborne:
First thing I found was the centre panel under the storage box was a loose/poor fit to the floor/seat panel. Took all that off and refitted with large self tappers with foam seal around edge, made first big difference.
Bought some Brushable Seam Sealer from Morris Minor Parts - E.S.M. Spares Part No. MAC030 and sealed all holes/gaps in floor pan/bulkhead (didn't remove all bulkhead covering just lifted up and poked around, but did remove floor mats etc.) - good water seal also! Cost about £24.00 (NB. Of course looked at other water leak sources as per the good old Defender Water Ingress manual as well)
Replaced front & rear door seals, again, airborne engine and road noise paths and of course water leaks. Do the "pull out paper strip test" to ensure seals are working!
Reduced Engine radiated noise with excellent material from
http://www.foamsolutionsuk.co.uk/und...retardent-foam, 1 metre square self adhesive, just about right for under hood, trim edges for improved appearance. Cost £25.00 Removed hood and stuck on underside; added some Fir Tree fasteners for added security from EBay firm Autoclipsdirect using Ford P44 type. Cost £3.50 Marked places on hood ribs and drilled thru; making sure drill had DEPTH STOP for obvious reasons! Sounding better already!
Took rear and front head linings down, 13 years old needed a good soap & water wash. That enabled me to use another Foam Solutions material. I went for the 2 x 1 meter x 6 mm CLOSED CELL (must always be) self adhesive sheet. Cost £31.00. Cut according to need, sticks well to underside roof panel (in the summer).
Closed cell foam to these surfaces reduces noise both radiated from "loose" roof panels and "absorbs" the higher frequency noises from diesel engine.

Structure borne:
This requires basically added MASS to the panels in form of damping pads.
Soundproofing & Acoustic Control - Sound Control Services offers good bitumen based damping pads, DM5, 2.5mm thick and 2 sheets 1mtr x 750mm for about £30.00. Want to get highest density without being too thick so can be formed (in summer) to floor areas. I made paper templates for floor foot wells, over transmission tunnel, removed seats and covered all of the seat box surfaces, including the battery and ECU covers. Then cut pads to shape and just stuck down.
Also had some of the foam solutions 6mm material left over which I put under the Land Rover floor mats.
I am very pleased with the result as although you know its a diesel still, that harsh cackle and diesel combustion noise has significantly reduced and one can converse with the passenger or have the radio on.
Total cost about £115.00 plus the satisfaction of doing it myself for half the cost of packages!

did you buy the wrong landrover? fenders are slow(though faster than a 1.8 k series),noisy,and cold ,wet and drafty,but superior off road.

If you do decide to get rid of the headlining I will happily line your palm with silver for it.

THEengineer said:

did you buy the wrong landrover? fenders are slow(though faster than a 1.8 k series),noisy,and cold ,wet and drafty,but superior off road.

Click to expand...

ound:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe1a1wHxTyo

Thanks for the advice guys.

So if I remove the headliner I won't have to faff with all of the roof furniture? Then I'll definitely pull it and soundproof all the way.

Something else: I'd like to have a couple of cargo nets and the like, how do I attach those to the carpet and foam? You don't have to drill all the way through to the outside of the car?

use the bolts that bolt the roof to the sides and the central rib in the cab roof. I put the foam on the roof and then replaced the roof lining if you want it to match either carpet the lining or spray paint it to match.