"Sound proofing"

The tub near the beginning - passenger side rear bench removed and first sheets of silent coat down.

One of the two rotten middle row mounts

The almost completed tub

The middle row. I've deliberately not gone further back until I sort out the rotten mounting points. Once they are sorted I will cover the rest of this section in silent coat.

This is as far as I've got. You can see the silent coat just appearing on the transmission tunnel from under the refitted seat box trim.

NickMcKee said:

This is as far as I've got. You can see the silent coat just appearing on the transmission tunnel from under the refitted seat box trim.

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Forgive my ignorance, but is this all closed cell foam based?


Cheers

Silent coat isn't foam, it's a semi-solid butyl rubber that absorbs vibration. I will probably cover quite a bit of it with some closed cell foam and then pretty much all of it with rubber mats or original factory trim.

Is there not a risk to allow a place for water to collect and start causing corrosion?

Cheers

I really don't think there is more risk than before. The adhesive/rubber is not water soluble and so it will be very hard for water to gather under the silent coat, and I'm sealing the joints just in case. If I see water on the surface of the insulation then I will track it down just as I do today.

I'm also putting a lot of effort into stopping water coming in so that I don't have to keep tracking it down!

You won't keep the water out. First thing I did on my Defender was strip all the mats and soundproofing out. I can see the water and mop it up. I can also spray the seams/joints with WD40.

allan downes said:

View attachment 131580

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Thats clean!!!!!

I did mine with that stuff and dodo matt then carpet. At 50mph the noise came down from 94db to 74db, it works. I do need to do the rear roof. I think my mud tyres, gaps and the fact its a defender cause most of the issues.

Trapped moisture under any sound deadening is a killer, make regular checks under any mats etc and dry any wet areas and mats.

NickMcKee said:

I like that a lot Allan! I plan to do do my bonnet when I have finished inside. Did it make much difference and does it stay on ok?

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hi soz for late reply been ill its great big difference its on ok no problem i went up to peterborough and back its still on ok

So I'm nearing the end of the noise reduction job on my 110. The floor plan is basically completely covered, except where there are obvious joints between panels, in which case I have left a small (5mm?) gap to make future maintenance easier. I've gone over the transmission tunnel and up the footwells until just under the lower dash. I don't have the energy to remove the dash at the mo. I've also done two large panels under the bonnet - there was no sound deadening material there. I bought 8m2 of silent coat and 2x50m of 50mm alu tape to seal the joins between the silent coat tiles. I've used over 7.5m2 and about 60m of the tape.

I have yet to put the middle row back in and the headlining. The middle row required a bit of body repair work which I have almost finished and the headlining is staying out while I try to figure out where the water is coming in from - it appears at the top of the A posts. I'm also leaving the rear bench seats out permanently as it will help me with insurance and I don't use them very often.

The verdict? In the past an empty truck was very noisy. With all the seats in place and the full headlining but no passengers or luggage it was loud. I don't have a noise meter but I typically had the radio at 34 for 40 mph. Now without the middle/rear seats/headlining it is much 'deader' from a sound perspective and I can hear the radio very well at 30. 34 feels painfully loud and I can sometimes get away with it at 25.

Its been a long job - good job I'm off work for several months - but it's been worth it.

Next steps are to make a rubber mat cover for it - I've ordered some 5 bar chequer plate 3mm thick x 1.5m wide rubber matting. 3m should be enough to cover the load area and the middle row floor. I plan to hold it in place with self adhesive velcro lol! No idea if it will work but I'm hoping it will hold it to the shape of the tub but allow me to remove it to check for water etc. I have some 3mm closed cell foam that I may stick to the underside of the rubber matting once I have it cut to fit. If it works it will be a cheap low maintenance final finish - £40 for the rubber and £10 for the velcro.

Nice work. Been thinking if your having water problems in the roof channel i would just try a temp test them when you find it. Permanently fix it. First what about the seam where the roof joins are. Try duck tape for a few days. Then the same on the roof runners. And any holes in roof. Ariels ect. Then i would remove all door seals and at the tops there are gaps i used jointing tape pvc. And squeezed door seal channels tighter and silicone sealer on lips and push door seals on. . Hope it helps

allan downes said:

Nice work. Been thinking if your having water problems in the roof channel i would just try a temp test them when you find it. Permanently fix it. First what about the seam where the roof joins are. Try duck tape for a few days. Then the same on the roof runners. And any holes in roof. Ariels ect. Then i would remove all door seals and at the tops there are gaps i used jointing tape pvc. And squeezed door seal channels tighter and silicone sealer on lips and push door seals on. . Hope it helps

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Thanks Allan. I have previously done most of what you suggest but I now think I have found the leaks! With the roof lining out I have now seen the water appearing over the A post and creeping into the internal gutters. I'm pretty sure that it is coming in via the windscreen seal. It's in poor nick but I have gone over it with a lot of Captain Tolley's and the water seems to have stopped coming in. There is heavy rain forecast in the coming week and I'm holding off putting the roof liner in until then. Ultimately I will need to replace the seal. It does feel odd to have a quieter and possibly dry landy lol.

In other news I gave a friend a lift in the landy yesterday and told her about the 'sound proofing'. She exclaimed 'this is quieter???'

Lol i know. Im away in my motohome atm. And thetes a vent by the door its loud and my missus said your landy is quieter than this now. Lol

Sofasurfer said:

You won't keep the water out. First thing I did on my Defender was strip all the mats and soundproofing out. I can see the water and mop it up. I can also spray the seams/joints with WD40.

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You can keep the water out. And my Ninety does not leak at all.

Replace rubbers, seal the roof seams, make sure the gutters are in order, check drains in any sunroofs, and the seals round Alpine lights if you have them.

The thing I found made a load of difference was shoving a big wedge of foam around the gear stick under the gaiter

Turboman said:

You can keep the water out. And my Ninety does not leak at all.

Replace rubbers, seal the roof seams, make sure the gutters are in order, check drains in any sunroofs, and the seals round Alpine lights if you have them.

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Thanks Turboman. I have done all of that except replace the front windscreen seal. I'm convinced that's where the water is coming in. Captain Tolleys has mostly filled the cracks and so three is less water coming in now. Hope to change the seal in a few weeks time- well actually hope to get someone to change it for me in a few weeks time.