"Sound proofing"

Turboman · Sep 28, 2017

NickMcKee said:
Thanks Turboman. I have done all of that except replace the front windscreen seal. I'm convinced that's where the water is coming in. Captain Tolleys has mostly filled the cracks and so three is less water coming in now. Hope to change the seal in a few weeks time- well actually hope to get someone to change it for me in a few weeks time.

Forgot the windscreen seal. Easy job. Sit in the front seat, and push the screen out with your feet, wear trainers, not hobnails.
Have an assistant to catch the screen as it pops out, change seal and replace.

And clear greenhouse tape is best for the roof leaks.

Mulcaster1 · Sep 28, 2017

Turboman said:
Forgot the windscreen seal. Easy job. Sit in the front seat, and push the screen out with your feet, wear trainers, not hobnails.
Have an assistant to catch the screen as it pops out, change seal and replace.

And clear greenhouse tape is best for the roof leaks.

I done that - came out easy - the fookin cat then knocked it over! lol

Turboman · Sep 28, 2017

Mulcaster1 said:
I done that - came out easy - the fookin cat then knocked it over! lol

Luckily, Defender screens are very cheap. My windscreen indie sells new for £75, and has some damaged but legal ones, starting at £25.

Windscreens can be embarrassing, my own worst windscreen moment came when I was changing one on a Golf in the road. I lifted the wiper arm, and, being aware of the risks, placed a rag on the screen to protect it. I removed one wiper blade, and the wiper snapped down while I was getting the new blade out of the box.
Sadly, the wind had moved the rag in the meantime, and it broke the screen!

Good job it was my own car, try explaining that one to a customer, or even worse, someone you are doing it for as a favour.

Mulcaster1 · Sep 28, 2017

Turboman said:
Luckily, Defender screens are very cheap. My windscreen indie sells new for £75, and has some damaged but legal ones, starting at £25.

Windscreens can be embarrassing, my own worst windscreen moment came when I was changing one on a Golf in the road. I lifted the wiper arm, and, being aware of the risks, placed a rag on the screen to protect it. I removed one wiper blade, and the wiper snapped down while I was getting the new blade out of the box.
Sadly, the wind had moved the rag in the meantime, and it broke the screen!

Good job it was my own car, try explaining that one to a customer, or even worse, someone you are doing it for as a favour.

e cut these screens in the glass shop! farmers always in for them - to be fair we use 6.4 laminated - which is a slight different size - but fits ok - £ 42 + vat

Turboman · Sep 28, 2017

Mulcaster1 said:
e cut these screens in the glass shop! farmers always in for them - to be fair we use 6.4 laminated - which is a slight different size - but fits ok - £ 42 + vat

Pretty easy to break LR screens on the farm. Stones fired from a hedge cutter or topper does em no favours!

NickMcKee · Sep 29, 2017

Turboman said:
Forgot the windscreen seal. Easy job. Sit in the front seat, and push the screen out with your feet, wear trainers, not hobnails.
Have an assistant to catch the screen as it pops out, change seal and replace.

And clear greenhouse tape is best for the roof leaks.

Is it really that easy to replace the windscreen seal? I read elsewhere that it is a nightmare to do and so was going to get someone else to do it. Mind you I also read that the alpine seals were a nightmare and I managed those just fine.

allan downes · Sep 29, 2017

If your refitting the original rubber its fine but if your fitting a new seal get it fitted by someone. When i had my landy painted 14 years ago. Had a new seal lots of fairy liquid and a strong cord it was almost in but the last bit wouldnt go at all. So autoglass came he broke 2 screens on the last bit lol. But 3rd one went it ok. Lol

NickMcKee · Sep 30, 2017

That seals it (pun intended) - it's a new seal and I'll get it fitted by someone else!

Turboman · Oct 2, 2017

NickMcKee said:
Is it really that easy to replace the windscreen seal? I read elsewhere that it is a nightmare to do and so was going to get someone else to do it. Mind you I also read that the alpine seals were a nightmare and I managed those just fine.

I have always found them an easy screen to replace, but then I have been playing with such things since I was a child. A long time ago now, over 40 years.

allan downes · Oct 2, 2017

I think it depends on the make of rubber you have at the time i had a bearmach rubber at the time and the original screen.

Turboman said:
I have always found them an easy screen to replace, but then I have been playing with such things since I was a child. A long time ago now, over 40 years.

Turboman · Oct 2, 2017

allan downes said:
I think it depends on the make of rubber you have at the time i had a bearmach rubber at the time and the original screen.

Bad quality rubber won't help. But as with most things, technique is important.

Never use fairy liquid, it is full of salt. Use the proper lube, or substitute bovine obstetric jelly, if you have some. Ans use binder string to guide the lip of the screen into place. They are a very easy screen to fit.
Try a Volvo screen for comparison. I once broke two of those in a breakers yard, trying to get them out with a hot wire!

NickMcKee · Nov 22, 2017

So I've clocked up over 1000 miles since I did my noise reduction work and it is so much quieter. Anything up to 70mph is comfortable from a noise perspective and I can now hear the radio without blasting my ear drums. Before I had to turn it off after about an hour because it had to be on so loud it gave me a headache. It has been time consuming but definitely worth it.

JimS · Nov 22, 2017

NickMcKee said:
So I've clocked up over 1000 miles since I did my noise reduction work and it is so much quieter. Anything up to 70mph is comfortable from a noise perspective and I can now hear the radio without blasting my ear drums. Before I had to turn it off after about an hour because it had to be on so loud it gave me a headache. It has been time consuming but definitely worth it.

That's good to hear. I did find after I did mine I became more aware of 'other rattles' that were being drowned out before, rear sliding windows buzzing slightly, creaking seats rubbing on B pillar, rear wheel hanger knocking slightly etc
So then had to go around and fix them! Must have OCD or something.... but strangely satisfying

NickMcKee · Nov 22, 2017

yes that has happened to me too. I think I couldn't hear them before but gradually I have eliminated all but one - a whistle from the driver's side vent when driving above 50 mph. That's still on my to do list along with a bunch of non-noise related jobs!

Mulcaster1 · Nov 22, 2017

well worth the effort - and the cost. My defender has been very enjoyable since I carried out the work in mine - although it is currently sitting with the head half off! fingers crossed its only the gasket.

zeaphod · Nov 22, 2017

If you haven't covered the rear roof yet, I'd recommend this stuff - 10mm closed cell, self adhesive, fire retardant. Very easy to fit and has a decent looking finish. Pretty cheap too - about £45 for 3sqm delivered to NI.

allan downes · Nov 22, 2017

nice i like that ebay?

zeaphod · Nov 22, 2017

This place: https://www.carinsulation.co.uk/ I've used their underbonnet stuff too.

NickMcKee · Nov 23, 2017

zeaphod said:
If you haven't covered the rear roof yet, I'd recommend this stuff - 10mm closed cell, self adhesive, fire retardant. Very easy to fit and has a decent looking finish. Pretty cheap too - about £45 for 3sqm delivered to NI.

View attachment 135430

Thanks - that looks good. I have put 7mm camping mats up under my headlining.

90deftdi · Nov 24, 2017

I'm on a tight budget but things i have done have made a big difference.

- Installed a radio and four speakers- fill the defender with vibrations you don't mind hearing!

- Ebay - Six pack of trimfix - and ten camping mats at £2.55 each free delivery from china - Fire retardant - foil backed - 6mm thick - closed cell.

Covered 100 % of the roof, under the headliner
Covered the entire rear tub with camping mats then covered with 3mm checker plate rubber for the floor.
Still have two mats left, but ran out of trim fix - will be doing the inside of the rear door ( which is a replacement as the other had an argument with a trailer and didn't seal - new door is much quieter )
Will also be doing behind the seats, over the seat box and i may well do all round the foot wells and bulk head and bits with it too - definitely reduces vibrations to something slightly more bearable.

The camping mats and trim fix are not expensive compared to other materials. £100 quid would give you enough of both to do the entire interior - I follow put foil tape over the joins and patches in awkward areas and things to finish up.

It does get a bit expensive when all that needs to be covered - the floor of the tub i have covered with rubber mat, new ss carpet retaining strip to finish it off - makes it look more finished but still just another cost.
because you have packed everything out by 6mm everything will be bigger so an off the shelf carpet kit like exmoor trim probably wont fit well. I still need to finish mine off so i'm just going to cover with that anthracite black carpet stuff.

added benefit of covering the floor of the tub with camping mats then rubber is that its not hard to kneel on when your scrabbling about in the back. Put black stixall round all the edges to seal the rubber. Stopped a lot of drumming.

My worst noises come from very rattly sliding windows, and the dash rattling which wanging a few self tappers through should sort.

"Sound proofing"

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