Sometimes I just love Green...

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Druim

Druim

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,734
Location
Denmark
Working on replacing brakes, checked pipes for rust but there isn't any - just lovely Green near new copper pipes all over - NICE :)


Nb: Haven't had car for long and just getting to know it.
NNb: Really easy to bleed the brake/change out all old fluid when following RAVE to the DOT:rolleyes: - 4 in this case:D
 
Is copper the way to go with brake pipe?

The inspector showed me the start of some brake pipe corrosion at the last MOT I had.

It won't need doing for a bit, but I thought I should start thinking about it.

I realise steel will rust, but there is this Cupronickel stuff I've read about. Harder to work, but longer lasting. Is it worth it do you think?
 
MrGorsky said:
Is copper the way to go with brake pipe?

The inspector showed me the start of some brake pipe corrosion at the last MOT I had.

It won't need doing for a bit, but I thought I should start thinking about it.

I realise steel will rust, but there is this Cupronickel stuff I've read about. Harder to work, but longer lasting. Is it worth it do you think?
Click to expand...

IMO just do copper, relatively cheap and super easy to work with, last a good time and when time to change again you know exactly how to if Alzheimer hasn't kicked in:)
 
It rusts badly where you cannot see. Mine exploded when I asked the wife to put some pressure on the brakes whilst tightening the axle nut so sooner than later. Its not difficult to do and can be done with axle stands and ramps and a good 3 ton jack. Connects behind the offside wheel arch. Make sure you get the correct pipe to wheel as abs will go crazy. If its a p38 then either copper or the nickel stuff will do as the car wont outlive the pipe
 
Willos said:
It rusts badly where you cannot see. Mine exploded when I asked the wife to put some pressure on the brakes whilst tightening the axle nut so sooner than later. Its not difficult to do and can be done with axle stands and ramps and a good 3 ton jack. Connects behind the offside wheel arch. Make sure you get the correct pipe to wheel as abs will go crazy. If its a p38 then either copper or the nickel stuff will do as the car wont outlive the pipe
Click to expand...

The car will outlive the pipe - the same couldn't be said about a lot of the electronics! I still believe there will be more surviving p38s than L322s in thirty years time. P38s are just about the most corrosion-resistant land rover products ever (so far!)
 
StuckAgainSteve said:
The car will outlive the pipe - the same couldn't be said about a lot of the electronics! I still believe there will be more surviving p38s than L322s in thirty years time. P38s are just about the most corrosion-resistant land rover products ever (so far!)
Click to expand...


Is that cos they never go orft road and very rarely on it either cos they break down so often though?? :p :D :D :D
 
Bromsgrove Defender said:
Is that cos they never go orft road and very rarely on it either cos they break down so often though?? :p :D :D :D
Click to expand...

I'll let you know when mine finally breaks down - I've done 35K miles in it so far (bought it with 100K on the clock). My classic was a rust bucket at two years old with 25K miles on it.
 
StuckAgainSteve said:
The car will outlive the pipe - the same couldn't be said about a lot of the electronics! I still believe there will be more surviving p38s than L322s in thirty years time. P38s are just about the most corrosion-resistant land rover products ever (so far!)
Click to expand...

Not too difficult to eliminate the BECM on the P38 if needs must.:)
 
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