SOLVED - FL1 - rear door latch release.

Alibro said:

Did you get the back story to this fault?
Before it jammed was it hard to close? Was she having to slam it to get it to close? Was it opening easily? Did it spring open fiercely when she opened it.
There might be a clue here that will help get it open.

Like I said before, I've never heard of the latch seizing although I guess it's not impossible but I'd be looking else where first.

Is the solenoid still operating when you lift the handle? If so maybe try to use it somehow as it will be stronger than your fingers.

Click to expand...

The only back story was that it hadn't opened since Christmas time. And no mention of slamming etc.

Anyway, there's been an update today, the door has been opened, the new latch assembly fitted, and all now working as it was before.
More below...

GrumpyGel said:

Nice video.

So, it look like you have to rotate the piece he has between his fingers in this pic (anti clockwise in this pic)...

View attachment 316919

You might be able to do it by poking something up from where the rod to the solenoid goes (maybe remove the solenoid for access).

It looks like that solenoid would have pulled, so there must be some pivot on that arm, because what it is working on needs to be pushed.

In fact I think you can see it in 1 of your pics, arrowed here...

View attachment 316920

It looks as though it will be at the top, so near the window and possibly not accessible - unless you remove the window and rubbers? Maybe, you can get something round the side of it, once again, from the solenoid area.

If the latch was operating before, presumably it can't be seized to much because they are only little springs in the video. Mind you seizing maybe why the arm the rod connects to has broken free!

Click to expand...

Last night I looked again at the new latch, and found that indeed the part at the top that you arrowed above could be raised and it did release the latch irrespective of the rod at the bottom.

First thing I did once my niece arrived with the car this morning was to remove the upper part of the plastic casing that was still covering the latch.
This was done with brute force as it kind of hooks over at the rear and was not going to be manouvered off easily.

Then a long thin screwdriver was bent so it fitted through the hole in front of that part of the latch, and under so it could then be raised.
After a lot of fiddling it raised and the door opened.
Yay.

So this is the lever at the top you have to raise if the latch rod can't be used to open the door.
My thin, bent screwdriver is under it on this pic, but had to go through the hole, then under it to release the latch.

The one that had failed is on the left, you can see the rod had completely skipped the teeth and therefore couldn't activate the latch.
As mentioned before I'm unsure if this is due to my "tugging" or whether it was like this before I even accessed it behind the door card.



Once the assembly was free from the car I could reposition the rod up back into the body of the latch by releasing the locking part and feeding it back onto the mating teeth if that makes sense.
I think it could be reused but I wouldn't guarantee it wouldn't happen again. Thankfully the new "used" part has been fitted and it's all working as it should now.

Hopefully all of this info may help someone in the future.

John_l_k said:

So this is the lever at the top you have to raise if the latch rod can't be used to open the door.
My thin, bent screwdriver is under it on this pic, but had to go through the hole, then under it to release the latch.

View attachment 316958

Click to expand...

Nice result. Must have been very satisfying when it went 'click' and the door opened

Didn't notice that hole, it must have been facing your access, so much easier to get at than coming at it from below.

GrumpyGel said:

Nice result. Must have been very satisfying when it went 'click' and the door opened

Didn't notice that hole, it must have been facing your access, so much easier to get at than coming at it from below.

Click to expand...

You would have to come at it from above actually, but yes, I was in the boot space poking my bent screwdriver around, and my niece was outside peeking down the gap in the window rubber guiding me..
Luckily somehow we prevailed.

Anyway, the joy was short-lived as once the tailgate was back in order I had to look at the driver's door lock which looks an even worse job.

I won't go into it here, other than say I'll research first then maybe have to start a new thread.

Time to let my bruised and cut hands heal......

Well done with the rear door, good to hear it wasn't seized after all.
I've never replaced a lock mechanism in a Freelander but the latch is pretty easy so hopefully it is not too hard.

I've been looking at this as my own rear door was not co-operating. I initially looked at the micro switch in the actual door's handle. That was working when I tested it with my test meter. Noticed that one spring was broken - can we still buy these?

Managed to get the door card off from inside. Had to remove the 'cubby box' lid which enabled me to get a better view up under the bottom of the door card to see the screws. The last screw on the right as you look at them is a bit of a pig to get at - once I got it started then I used a stubby phillips head screwdriver to get it out. Sadly I've managed to snap off two of the holdings which hold the blue 'pins' which hold the card in place

Below are some pics I took for peeps to view showing what the actuator and latch arrangement looks like. Before I got right into it I gave the actuator a couple of smart taps with a screwdriver handle and 'hey presto' it functioned again! I've a replacement one ordered from Rimmers...

John_l_k said:

You would have to come at it from above actually, but yes, I was in the boot space poking my bent screwdriver around, and my niece was outside peeking down the gap in the window rubber guiding me..
Luckily somehow we prevailed.

Anyway, the joy was short-lived as once the tailgate was back in order I had to look at the driver's door lock which looks an even worse job.

I won't go into it here, other than say I'll research first then maybe have to start a new thread.

Time to let my bruised and cut hands heal......

Click to expand...

I've done a driver's latch it wasn't too bad to do.