So What's This Noise?

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ohhh with you now. gaitor on the prop not the drive shaft.

as MHM said they are a not servicable item. you have to get the front part of the prop changed. Might get one in a breakers.
 
Catspee - do a "Mondeo" - disconnect the prop and drive it in 2wd - that will confirm its the prop - its purr-fectly (sic) safe and gives ya time to sort it.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Catspee - do a "Mondeo" - disconnect the prop and drive it in 2wd - that will confirm its the prop - its purr-fectly (sic) safe and gives ya time to sort it.
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Yep dead easy to do 6 torx bolts for front, two hex bolts for each bearing housing and four torx for rear. Remove from the front to the rear and get an assistant will help take the weight of the prop. Support all wheels off ground and spin the axle for each bolt in turn (to get clearance for socket attachments for the torx bolts). They also say that you should make allignment marks (small nic from hacksaw, dab of paint etc) before removing shaft from IRD on front and rear. I never bother.... shaft should be purr-fectly balanced unless bent or badly damaged from rocks etc
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
do yu need to remove both sections - cant yu just remove front section (or rear) from VCU?
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Could be done but just as easy to drop the whole shaft.

If your lying under car on trolley board its a bit awkward to remove circlips and then use suitable size drift to remove pins - if ya catch my drift.

I would rather have the whole prop out and inspect it on a solid surface/work bench with good light etc
 
Don't mend it !!! Don't sell it !!!! Scrap it !!! get another one off the road, thats a laugh Off Road hahaheeee I really don't like Flanders only ever had one, it spent more time at the stealers (costing me more cash) oops dealers than on the drive. Regards Only kidding regarding scraping it, cut it up into little pieces and put it in your recycle bin LOL it may make a decent fridge or washing machine, well at least hotpoint motors work.
 
LR1796 said:
ohhh with you now. gaitor on the prop not the drive shaft.

as MHM said they are a not servicable item. you have to get the front part of the prop changed. Might get one in a breakers.
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Hmmm I looked it up on a parts site £139.50+vat.........not as bad as I thought.
Mind you labour at £40.00 an hour will make it expensive..........is it hard to change?? My brother used to be a mechanic..........we have all the tools at home.......I wonder if he/we could fix it?
 
Sounds like you got out cheap then.

Shouldnt be too hard to sort. Take the prop off and leave it with youR bro. He should know how to remove pins with drift. Meanwhile take your hippo for a test run. You will notice the difference, light steering, much faster, better fuel economy its the cats pyjamas, but dont wonder into the mud cos you wont come back in 2WD.

Refit prop starting at back and working to the front
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
no probs - its orf with the old - and on with the new ;)

follow lr's instructions above.

yozup trooper? cat got ya tongue?
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Sorry been out to lunch, only read one of the replies...........Hmmm it does sound fairly simple. I think even I with the help of my Dad or brother can manage it. Thanks for the advice guys........hmm can I still drive it around for a bit.........I get paid next week.
Oh just thought........vet bills next week!!! My colt is being gelded!!! Why does it always happen when I need the money for something else! :(
 
TrooperDriver said:
Don't mend it !!! Don't sell it !!!! Scrap it !!! get another one off the road, thats a laugh Off Road hahaheeee I really don't like Flanders only ever had one, it spent more time at the stealers (costing me more cash) oops dealers than on the drive. Regards Only kidding regarding scraping it, cut it up into little pieces and put it in your recycle bin LOL it may make a decent fridge or washing machine, well at least hotpoint motors work.
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so TROOPER BOY howcome you downgraded to an Isuzu

Like I said..... if an ickle suzuki swift can roll a trooper then something seriously wrong, on yes overly top heavy wagon. kind of a poor mans Mitsubushi even the Narvara gets RESPECT!
 
LR1796 said:
Sounds like you got out cheap then.

Shouldnt be too hard to sort. Take the prop off and leave it with youR bro. He should know how to remove pins with drift. Meanwhile take your hippo for a test run. You will notice the difference, light steering, much faster, better fuel economy its the cats pyjamas, but dont wonder into the mud cos you wont come back in 2WD.

Refit prop starting at back and working to the front
Click to expand...

Thanks for you advice LR........so I can take the whole prop off and drive without it or just the front part?? And it will be safe? Don't want to kill myself :eek:
 
no probs takin prop of - it is one of the more common mods - to drive in 2wd - gives all the benefits LR has described at the disadvantage of poor traction - so DONT GO OFFROADING wiv it in 2wd
 
Cat's Eyes said:
Thanks for you advice LR........so I can take the whole prop off and drive without it or just the front part?? And it will be safe? Don't want to kill myself :eek:
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Couple of things, for insurance reasons... best take it slow and you'll be fine. you will notice acceleration is quicker. Mine is off for the summer months cos I only do a bit of green laning, then back on in winter for ice/snow.
The prop is held on by 14 bolts in total, I would say its quicker and easier to remove these rather than try to split the prop on the car.

The torx bits are only a few pounds each and usually 1/2" drive for socket sets. Dunno sizes off hand will have to check tonight

make sure your hippo is secure when on axle stands/blocks as thats the only dangerous bit.
 
Thanks mate you have been a great help! I am very, very grateful! I will get it done at the weekend...............am at work during the week and it's dark when I get home. May be I should drive me Mum's Mondeo till I get it off?
 
Tip - dont fully tighten all bolts until the prop is fully assembled. check the bearing mountings are square/90degrees to the shaft before tightening the bolts.

I wonder if poorly alligned bearings causes high failure from the other folks on here ??

If anything the bearing housing is the trickiest bit. I place the prop on to a roller board and use a scissor jack to take the weight in the middle when tightening the bearing housing bolts.
 
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