So What's This Noise?

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Cat's Eyes

New Member
Posts
3,374
Location
Stevenage
Hi,
Am new here and I have yet another problem with my FL. There is a strange sort of grinding noise coming from the car..........can't hear it outside and it only happens when it's moving.
Slows down and then stops once the car has stopped. I have a suspicion it has something to do with the propshaft?? I had the VCU relaced in the summer as it went bang! When it was MOT'd a couple of months ago the guy told me the rubber at the end of the prop was spilt (gearbox end) could the noise be coming from there??
Any advice would be very helpful, thanks.

Maria.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
can yu record it on ya mobile and post it to yutube for peeps to listen to?

Oh if only I was that technically minded :)
No chance I'm afraid :( can't connect phone to the internet.

I know I should go to my garage and get them to look at her.........to be honest I am scared of what they are going to say!! £722 for the VCU really don't have loads of money to pay for another massive bill! Have horses to pay for :)
 
dont drive Hippoo - ride horses - poss cheaper ;)

problem with not fixing probs ASAP is that the expense increases exponentially the longer yu leave it :(
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
dont drive Hippoo - ride horses - poss cheaper ;)

problem with not fixing probs ASAP is that the expense increases exponentially the longer yu leave it :(

I'd rather ride the horses LOL!! But not along the A12 :D
I'll pluck the courage and go see Andy (mechanic) :eek:
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
at least if yu know wot it is - yu can make a value judgement as to whether to fix, drive or get rid?

Arrh the get rid option is out..........still got 2yrs 4mnths left on the HP!!! :(
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
and VCU and now this - heard it before lads?

LOL! I haven't mentioned the new ECU and the intermitant fault with the ABS, HDC and TC :D
Oh I love owning a LR :rolleyes: .............well actually I do, just wish it would run for more than 6 months without going wrong. :eek:
 
i know the guys have heard this before - mine cost me £6300 excluding ins,tax etc in 13 months.
I hope yu have deep pockets or else....

pawn the horses, fix the Hippoo, sell the Hippoo, get the horses back. :p
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
i know the guys have heard this before - mine cost me £6300 excluding ins,tax etc in 13 months.
I hope yu have deep pockets or else....

pawn the horses, fix the Hippoo, sell the Hippoo, get the horses back. :p

AUGH!! Never horses stay with me regardless. If it goes wrong to the point where I can't afford to fix it, I'll let the finance Co reposess it..........they can fix it!! LOL!:p
 
Do you have axle stands or large blocks of wood handy?

Jack vehicle up and support in correct places. spin wheels and see if ya can narrow down the noise to front or rear. Even start the car and run it in gear under slow idle
 
LR1796 said:
Do you have axle stands or large blocks of wood handy?

Jack vehicle up and support in correct places. spin wheels and see if ya can narrow down the noise to front or rear. Even start the car and run it in gear under slow idle

Hmmmm yes I think we do have axle stands at home............my Dad has all sorts of stuff around the place........mind you with 4 acres he has lots of space to hide things :D
I had her up on the ramps at the weekend. Put too much oil in, had to drain it out!!! Had a look at the end of the Prop' there is oil on the underside of the car near where the rubber is split.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
VCU
The VCU automatically controls the transfer of drive to the rear wheels by limiting the speed differential between the
front and rear propeller shafts. The unit is supported in two propeller shaft bearings attached to the floor cross
member.
The VCU comprises a short cylinder which contains an input shaft supported in a roller bearing race at the front and
a ball bearing race at the rear. Within the cylinder, slotted discs are alternately attached to the outer surface of the
input shaft and the inner surface of the cylinder. An output shaft is welded onto the rear of the cylinder. The input shaft is attached to the front propeller shaft and the output shaft is attached to the rear propeller shaft.
On models with 1.8 K Series engines, a torsional damper is bolted to a flange on the output shaft.
The cylinder is a sealed unit filled with a silicon jelly. The viscosity of the silicon jelly increases when subjected to
shear. When there is a speed differential between the front and rear propeller shafts, adjacent slotted discs in the VCU rotate in relation to each other. The shearing action of the rotating slotted discs increases the viscosity and resistance to rotation of the silicon jelly.


Section Through VCU


for pic - see attached

1 Cylinder
2 Slotted discs
3 Input shaft
4 Roller bearing
5 Ball bearing
6 Torsional damper flange (K1.8 models only)
7 Output shaft
The rear wheels are 0.8% under driven, so in most conditions the vehicle is effectively front wheel drive, with the rear
wheels turning the rear propeller shaft slightly faster than the IRD drives the front propeller shaft. Since the speed
differential is low, the increase in viscosity of the silicon jelly is marginal and there is little resistance to relative rotation
of the slotted discs.
When there is a significant speed differential between the front and rear propeller shafts , e.g. the front wheels lose
traction or traversing rough terrain, the viscosity and resistance to rotation of the silicon jelly increases to a level that
slows or stops relative rotation of the slotted discs. With the front and rear propeller shafts locked together, drive is
thus transferred from the IRD to the rear wheels.

VCU bearing

If you've got a whineing noise from your drive-train that you can't easily identify then it could be the VCU support bearings. You can remove the whole prop assembly and still use the vehicle as front wheel drive only. To do this you need to jack up one front and one rear wheel on the same side and remove all of the bolts at the ends of the prop-shaft. These have hex headed bolts for which you need something like an E14 socket, the jacked wheels will allow you to turn the shafts by hand and get access to all of the bolts. Support the ends of the shaft. Now remove the 2 bolts in each of the support bearing housings whilst supporing the VCU - it's *very* heavy ! drag it all out carefully from under the truck and take to the bench to work on.
<A href="http://www.thesysadmin.co.uk/hippo/fixes/front%20prop%20spline.jpg">
thfront%20prop%20spline.jpg

The prop-shafts are on splines onto the VCU, with a single bolt into the end to hold it on. If you undo this bolt a little then you should be able to use a wedge between the UJ and the bolt in order to force the joint apart. One of mine came off with a good hit on the wedge, but the other I had to actually dismantle the UJ and get it in a hydraulic press.

When this is all apart you can press the bearing out of the race and read the part number off the side. I bought new ones from rswww.com for about nine pounds each. Fitting them was relatively easy, and putting it all back together and lifting back onto the car similarly so.

tum te tum! ;)
 
LR1796 said:
Do you mean drive shaft gaitor, if so thats your problem.

Hmmm not sure what it's called consetina (sp) type/shape rubber thing at the end of the prop, the MOT guy said it was split but it would not affect the MOT. Wasn't making the noise at the time, only started last week.

Does it mean the thing is going to sieze up :eek: Don't shout.........I sprayed WD40 around it to see if it would make any difference...........needless to say it didn't!! I know prob a stupid thing to do.........:eek:
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
new prop required then, cant change the aligator on its own :(

Oh blimey don't say that :( ..........that's gona cost me isn't it...........what about the new VCU?? Can I just get half a propshaft?? Humour me I don't know these things...........but I appriceate the advice.:confused:
 
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