Meanwhile my cooling system is performing as it should but, granted, i will still have hot and cold spots in the system.
this is the only thing that i find mildly alarming
trick to bleeding is.....do it at least 5 times then do it again just to be sure
They look sound enough. It should only be 3 hours labor really, isn't that hard to fit. The bleeding can take a while if they do it properly - you will probably need to "burp" small amounts of air from the system for a week or so after. You can do this by carefully slackening the bleed screw on the top heater matrix hose, small bubbles and coolant will come out if there's air left in it.
It's the heat soak post shut down that worries me most - small alloy engine and all that. By the way, what do you get with MPG? Lately I've been getting 30+mpg even with quite alot of urban driving to get out of the city and my BFG tyres . Could be the EWP has really helped that.
why does that worry you so much ,wouldnt have been a big concern of mineIt's the heat soak post shut down that worries me most - small alloy engine and all that. By the way, what do you get with MPG? Lately I've been getting 30+mpg even with quite alot of urban driving to get out of the city and my BFG tyres . Could be the EWP has really helped that.
why does that worry you so much ,wouldnt have been a big concern of mine
27-28 mpg combined but we have a lot of hills round here, so yours is doing good
by strange coincidence (we aint had a question on this for a while) i have just this very night explained this very fitment to another noobie.
search button above
My MPG is still **** if I only drive around town, 20mpg or so I reckon. At least I can take the missus' 1.2 Ibiza for town errands now, save some dosh.
Tell you what, without wanting to be struck down by Landyzone God lightening that search button is about as useful as a £7 note!!!
why does that worry you so much ,wouldnt have been a big concern of mine
Definitely worth getting the mod done a.s.ap
any head or casting has tension due to the way its made ,outer cools quicker than inside ,its more noticeable with ali but it will move if overheated and is more liable to move again,you allways take a risk skimming and reusing an ali head ,skimming an old flat head that hasnt been overheated would be better but new better still, i wouldnt have thought in normal driving heat soak was an issue ,but if liners,cooling system etc are perfect there is still a risk using a skimmed headBecause in some schools of thought the belief is that because it's a light alloy head and block that heat soak can have a cumulative effect on head warpage. K series Elise owners got really badly shafted for this on track days.
It's got something to do with the head being quenched after casting which leaves some chaotic knots of tension in the head, if the head is repeatedly over heated this knots work their way out and warp the head. That's why K series rebuilders say it's better to get a high mileage head and skim it, those knots will have worked themselves out.
I've got no way to prove any of that but the logic seems sound to me.
Well Rimmerbros seems the way to go for the part then to off to persuade a decent mechanic to do the deed, hopefully for not much more than £250 all in. What do you lot think?
any head or casting has tension due to the way its made ,outer cools quicker than inside ,its more noticeable with ali but it will move if overheated and is more liable to move again,you allways take a risk skimming and reusing an ali head ,skimming an old flat head that hasnt been overheated would be better but new better still, i wouldnt have thought in normal driving heat soak was an issue ,but if liners,cooling system etc are perfect there is still a risk using a skimmed head
God for £250 I'd expect a free blowjob, and biscuits for me dog!
any head or casting has tension due to the way its made ,outer cools quicker than inside ,its more noticeable with ali but it will move if overheated and is more liable to move again,you allways take a risk skimming and reusing an ali head ,skimming an old flat head that hasnt been overheated would be better but new better still, i wouldnt have thought in normal driving heat soak was an issue ,but if liners,cooling system etc are perfect there is still a risk using a skimmed head
God for £250 I'd expect a free blowjob, and biscuits for me dog!
Welcome To LandyZone, the Land Rover Forums!
Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.
Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!