Smoke on cold start up TD4

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Dave, you already know that I disagree with messing with the ecu software in order to correct a mechanical problem. Forget the cam sensor, it has no influence on injection other than to initiate the firing order, all timing is in crankshaft degrees monitored via the crank sensor.
If you have reason to believe the timing chain is worn and the camshafts/valve timing affected then you should remove the camcover and check/adjust the camshaft timing. That may be all that's required but although you don't report any chain flutter noises this will also give you the opportunity to check the condition of the chain and camshaft sprockets . If the chain was so badly worn then I would expect the tensioners and guides to be the same. As has already been said the tensioners and guide rails appear to be coping with current levels of wear but only an inspection can confirm if they are ok.
The only other similar incidence of this that cropped up was believed to have be caused by excessive egr deposits on valves/ports etc and reported as cured by a cylinder head overhaul.
If it turns out there isn't a valve timing issue then it would at least be worth removing (and cleaning) the inlet manifold and examining what can be seen of the inlet ports and make a decision whether to proceed further??
 
Cheers for that, well i've just got in a had a coffee (10.45pm) - So results are .......
Over the past few weeks we have :-
Overhauled all four injectors & reseated them (twice, the reseat that is)
Fitted the EGR Bypass kit,
re-mapped the ecu
Replaced map, maf and temp sensors,
checked all hoses,
cleaned inlet manifold,
changed ALL filters,
cleaned out engine breather housing & checked diaphragm,
put in new fuel (BP Ultimate)
changed oil,
the result is ...........

Goes like a train with no smoke on startup or whilst running,
Starts on the key and idles perfectly,
as I've said earlier, If driven 'normally', i.e start up, drive off and
drive normally, all is well, minimal smoke on acceleration,
could easily pull a small house down, great throttle response,

BUT ..... When I let it cool down ..... restarts great, run up to 1900 to 2000rpm
and guess what....

YES .... Smokes like a chimney !!!

Now I Give up, I think I am just going to put up with it as
normally driven it's fine,
So WHY does it misfire and smokes at 1900-2000rpm until it's warm
I just don't know ??

If someone out there has any more (sensible) ideas, then
knock yourselves out and post me your ideas...
I'm all out (well for now anyway)

Dave.
 
Hi David which temp senor did you replace...... the coolant one is located down near the glow plugs - not the sensor up near the epansion bottle..... just a thought. Also seem to remember seeing something about air in the fuel ..... and fuel lines and also rail pressure regulation sensor. Cheers
 
Hi, sorry my mistake, i havn't changed a temp sensor, although it does take a while for the engine to warm up, and when it does the gauge only goes to 11.00 o clock, is this normal or should it be at 12.00 ?? also just found out it's got a fuel burning heater (looks like a winter kit, heated front window, heated seats and FBH) but the FBH doesn't see, to work, just come across another post and Tim has the exact same problem as me?
Going nuts !!
Cheers
 
Mine is still doing it at random times, start it up with the glow plugs and it idles happy, but try to rev and it doesnt want to do it, it will slowly climb till the turbo kicks in at just over 2000rpm.

It feels like its trying to clear its throat if that makes sense and once its done that, and blew out alot of blue smoke, it runs fine.

Also when it does that throat clearing, it seems dead under load till its covered about a mile, go off turbo in 2nd or 3rd on a slight hill and it will start to drop revs and wont pick up, even if you press the throttle down more.

Ive changed the air and oil filter last weekend, for genuine LR parts, ive the fuel filter and im buying the bmw mod for the crank case filter.

It's had a fuel pump replaced 30k ago, has the EGR blanked, boost hoses are replaced and its been remapped. Always run on BP ultimate with millers added.

Im going to try the 2 stroke oil instead of millers to see if that can help.

Does anyone elses have the throat clearing issue? Mine has always done it since i bought it with 37k on the clock, my old td4 on 59k never did it.
 
Hi my td4 has 40k on it and hasnt got that problem have you blanked of the vacuum pipe that connects to the egr mod on the front as some were not solid on the egr and had a hole through the middle also have you blanked off the other side of the egr solonoid valve and check the filter for the turbo its a little plastic filter on the left side at the back of engine.
 
Phil0114 said:
Hi my td4 has 40k on it and hasnt got that problem have you blanked of the vacuum pipe that connects to the egr mod on the front as some were not solid on the egr and had a hole through the middle also have you blanked off the other side of the egr solonoid valve and check the filter for the turbo its a little plastic filter on the left side at the back of engine.
Click to expand...

Both sides are blanked and the filter was changed 6k ago, going to get the bmw upgrade part fitted soon.

I dont get how one does it, and the other never did.

Would hope the fuel is not contaminated, but ill try regular diesel for a bit to see if that helps.
 
A.J.M said:
Mine is still doing it at random times, start it up with the glow plugs and it idles happy, but try to rev and it doesnt want to do it, it will slowly climb till the turbo kicks in at just over 2000rpm.

It feels like its trying to clear its throat if that makes sense and once its done that, and blew out alot of blue smoke, it runs fine.

Also when it does that throat clearing, it seems dead under load till its covered about a mile, go off turbo in 2nd or 3rd on a slight hill and it will start to drop revs and wont pick up, even if you press the throttle down more.

Ive changed the air and oil filter last weekend, for genuine LR parts, ive the fuel filter and im buying the bmw mod for the crank case filter.

It's had a fuel pump replaced 30k ago, has the EGR blanked, boost hoses are replaced and its been remapped. Always run on BP ultimate with millers added.

Im going to try the 2 stroke oil instead of millers to see if that can help.

Does anyone elses have the throat clearing issue? Mine has always done it since i bought it with 37k on the clock, my old td4 on 59k never did it.
Click to expand...
Have you tried running with the Maf disconnected? might shed some light?
 
Shall try that once the rain stops going sideways. Can it be cleaned or just replaced.
 
Well i'm not saying that it will be the fault but it might explain the sluggishness before boost comes on, just have to see....

I've never had any luck cleaning them but others seem to have.
Definitely worth trying for anyone using a K+N filter.
 
Chaser said:
Well i'm not saying that it will be the fault but it might explain the sluggishness before boost comes on, just have to see....

I've never had any luck cleaning them but others seem to have.
Definitely worth trying for anyone using a K+N filter.
Click to expand...

Having found and read this site, many of my issues are present so the MAF sounds like its duff. Shall see how it goes with it unplugged to start with. Then take it from there.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...z6mjCg&usg=AFQjCNGWeOmX0aGh-YzCugSf5uO7tXcPIQ
 
On changing oil I slightly underfilled - 1/2 way between max - min .... blue smoke in morning appears significantly reduced....still some but not street filling.
 
Hi has anybody any further news or help with blue smoke on startup...........one last thing if battery voltage was slightly low but the current capacity ok for cranking.....would this cause glow plugs to work inffectively.........causing slightly sluggish catch..... hence smoke???
 
about to do oil/filters for myself so will see how it is after that.

what i am trying to do is when i park up i try to let it idle for 20-30 seconds, dunno if its just coincidence but it seems to help a bit.....
 
it sounds as though it is your valve stem seals if it is not worth bothing about unless it gets worse when the seals are going when you have turned the engin of a tiny drop of oil goes down the sides of the valve and if the seals are worn then it will go down into the bore hope this helps
 
How could the valve seals get chewed up in 37k?
Mine has always done it, but my first and 20k older mileage one never did.

I've done a full service on it. It's cut down on the smoke but every few days it won't rev right until its thrown a large cloud of blue smoke out. Then it runs perfect.

Stupid car! Lol.
 
Hi ..... my hippo does this .... starts ok but puffs out blue smoke. However, it does not appear to be burning oil significantly. Now, one thing I think may be causing this ... how about fractionally low battery voltage....I know my battery has not gut much life left in it .... in other words on a cold morning I recon it would refuse turn the engine over after 3 good 10 second cranks. I was wondering if the the voltage dropped to around 11.5 volts....then the glow plugs may not draw enough to glow well......and cause poor combustion.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Gunter Shingleditch
Freelander 1 TD4 puff of smoke on start-up, stinky exhaust and shudders at 1000 RPM - SOLVED
Replies
16
Views
3K
Arctic2
Arctic2
S
Smokes on cold start td4
Replies
9
Views
1K
SheffiledFL1TD4
S
DefendingLancashire
300TDI 90 loss of power & smoke on start up
Replies
4
Views
929
tottot
tottot
B
White smoke on start-up
Replies
4
Views
626
lynall
L
Mac-1990
200tdi glow plug issue causing white smoke and bad start up?
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
Flossie
Flossie
Back
Top