slight vibration/rumbling on td5 auto at 2000 revs ish /auto gear changing

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I have exactly the same vibration/rumble between 2200rpm and 2600rpm, on the tunnel, after that it's fine. I'm not worried about it, thought it was normal. I would like to know your findings when you sort it out....

It's my first Landy so I just thought it was normal as it drives perfectly apart from that

It feels if something could be out of balance

The 4 speed auto is a bit frustrating but I'm used to a 6 speed manual. I guess 3rd to 4th is equivilant to the other 2 gears I'm missing ;)

I've had autos before so I'm used to it and was prepared for a long 3rd gear:p

Let me know when you find out

Ant
 
i also have a friend with same problem in a td5

has had frt balancer replaced

can make vibration holding revs in park or neutral

can feel it when you hold transmission housing

driving him nuts

would appreciate any further reports
 
2001 TD5 Es Auto, I thought the same as you after having Ford galaxy TDI that basicly flew. Its getting used to it thats the problem, mine used to rev high and i used to sh*t myself until a friendly mechanic said ` no give it some welly and see what she can do`. Towing - I tow a 1800kg van and its as if it aint there until you hit long hills and the cruise is up and down the revs kicking in and out to build the speed up, I thought they were the best for towing and still think so just returned from touring devon and she never missed a beat. EGR - Im into insurance of the washing machine kind and manage a call centre I don`t do engines (but wish i did) I did my own EGR plate in about an hour, I was lucky coz me bolts were alarmingly loose, a little fiddley but here I am with a car that has more power from start off but really shows power when towing at 55 and you floor it the power just keeps coming better than ever, not really had the chance to prove the economy yet due to towing but since ive been home it looks like the diesel gauge has stayed still longer than normal whilst doing the normal back and forth to work.

Summary, Towing cant fault it, EGR, Do it tomorrow mate

Only noise i had and thought was wrong was when you are in gear and you lift your foot off, was told and have accepted this is normal, have driven two TD5 Disco auto`s and they all do it.
Good luck
 
disco2don said:
Hi there, jist got my auto td5 es 2002 from dealer last week. everything works and generally no problems but need get couple niggling issues sorted out.Shock horror theses issues dont come under warranty which received for a 3 month period.Took dealer for a spin and he reckons autos all make funny noises etc. Likely story!!

1. When engine is taken up through the revs at approx 2200 rpm a low rumbling / vibration is noticeable.Its noticeable to myself but most other people probably wouldnt notice if they werent used to the disco.Test drove another auto prior to this one and dont remember hearing any strange noises or vibration.Doesnt matter if vehicle is stationary(in park or neatral) or driven through gears it appears only to be noticeable through the rev band in the 2000 to 2300 band. When the revs do die of just under a 1000 rpm again a low rumbling. Same as when the revs are taken from idle up thrugh 1000 rpm. Are these related problems. Could this be one of the pumps creating the vibration. Have taken the top plastic soundproofing covers of the top of the engine incase something was loose but no joy. Could be something vibrating somewhere completly different but its bugging the hell out of me Any ideas??? Does it sound serious / expensive???

2. Surprised how slow the gear change uptake is on the auto. Any ideas for getting the auto into 4th gear quicker as feel the drives around the 40 mph zones is stuck in 3rd gear when really it could do with being in fourh. Is there anything a garage or remap can do to alter the characteristic of gear changing.Feel the vehicle does a lot of reving before it changes up gears. I know the autos do generally run higher revs but feel fuel consumption must be lot higher than it would need to be . I have tried playing with the throttle when driving to jump it into 4th gear quicker but not particularily fun drivinglike that.Autos are suposed to be a relaxing ,lazy drive.


Thats the two main moans out of the way. Apart from these issues it s a good drive.Everything works and its got good spec Heard a lot of scary stories from the forum about towing the autos. As i tow a boat or caravan occasionally have i bought the wrongun to haul these lumps around the country. Thought the auto was sposed be good for towing???:confused:
Click to expand...

I have a very similar noise in mine from the sound of it. It is going in to an ex-LR mechanic for diagnosis shortly.

It happens mainly under load (low revs / high torque) - it is worsened when, for example, climbing a hill slowly where the engine is under the most load, and in the rev range only of about 1800 - 2300 revs. I find that it dissipates a lot when the engine is warm (30+ minutes of driving). Does this concur with your noise?

It has been suggested that it is the torque converter, but I will find out for sure shortly.
 
Hi, new here and have come searching for answers on exactly the same problem i have with my TD5. Has anyone found the cause of the vibration? as soon as i get past 2500rpm it goes and the engine is smooth
 
Hi ive got a 99 td5 auto and I think I have the same vibration when you drive try holding onto the handbrake lever and drive till it starts and lift the hand brake slightly up and down and you will feel the vibration through it if its the the same vibration as mine ive tried lots of different forums and various garages but no luck in locating the problem, ive owned the car for 2 years and at the start thought it was some heat shield from the exaust but its not that,I did find one thing that seemed to cure it for about a week at the front of the hand brake drum there is a rectanglular piece of metal not sure exactly what it is although maybe someone on here knows I have been told its some kind of a balance plate or something like that this has bolts through it and they were loose as I say that seemed to cure it(maybe it was in my head though as it came back)so I think the noise has something to do witht the handbrake havent a clue what but its still running strong after two years of abuse from me so I dont think its anything to worry about just keep the revs up above 2200 or turn up the stereo and enjoy it as its the best motor ive ever owned sorry ive not helped with the cause but hopefully put your mind at rest as to wether its damaging if you manage to cure it tell me what it was cheers the noo:D
 
Is the only solution for one of us brave souls to take our beast into a main dealer and have fixed at high cost? I've been two ex-dealer independents, and they haven't got a clue!
 
Got to be a solution for this vibration somewhere don't you think ?

If not then hey - I love the car so I'll put up with it. If something breaks then I'll know :) and post on here.


Mark
 
It might be worth looking at the heatsheild on the transfer box mounting where the exhaust runs past.I had my gearbox out and then after puting it back together it had a strange noise and it is the aluminum heatsheild has got damaged of it has broken and that is the cause of the noise at 2100rpm--2600rpm.
Scotty
 
where exactly is it ?is it on the side or the top of it as I havent got access to a ramp Ill have to go under it ive recently had an op on my shoulder so itll be difficult and probably painfull but its summit to do as im boreds stupid cheers
 
It is on the passenger side near to the hand brake drum on transfer box it covers around the rubber mounting block if it seams loose then it will vibrate causing the noise at 2100--2600 rpm.I have just removed mine and made a new one out of alloy sheet.

Scotty
 
The noise I have is more of a deep seated rumble than a vibration, only at low revs though. You would say it's a wheel bearing but it's there when the car is stationary.

Drives great though.

Strange !!

Mark
 
mine has been in the garage this morning and had everything checked over. only thing found was the bearing in the viscous coupling has gone and the unit moves back and forth about 10-15mm. new one being fitted next week, so fingers crossed!
 
my friend had his td5 on a hoist the other day & found the heat shield above the main muffler was loose . secured by small star or speed nuts that were loose. replaced them with nuts & washers as the studs are threaded .has made a big difference to vibration but still not totally gone. possibly suspect
that the vibration dampner at the rear of transfer may be causing some of the problem. it was also suggested that weak handbrake springs can cause it , but it still did it in neutral with h/brake off.
 
i'm still trying to sort out the vibration issue. I've noticed that when the car is missing/vibtrating at 2300-2500rpm and i stop, turn off the engine, restart and drive off, the vibration is reduced. I checked the turbo wastgate to see if it was stuck. the part that goes into the turbo is free, but the arm that goes into the modulator is very stiff (can only just move it a little by hand). is this right? or should that be freely moving as well?
 
U/J front prop rear u/j transfer box one , if it's slightly worn apparently will do this there is also an associated squel as it gets worse noticable more up hills/ higher revs / pulling/ reversing!!!! also un balanced prop if it's been of for hand brake work/ also u/j un greased.
 
jcbdigger1970 said:
i have the same issues with driving in third, mine wont go into 4th till 53mph and that is normal i am afraid.
Click to expand...
No, that's the box locking up at 53. Goes into fourth earlier but it's hard to detect the shift. Should also lock up in third at 32mph, I think, although I've never actually checked if that's what's happening.

Mine vibrates a fair bit nowadays especially when cold. I think it's the torque converter, but it's been doing it for the last 20k or so miles - you get used to it.

Maybe an obvious question: you haven't got it stuck in sport mode have you? That would make it hold lower gears longer.
 
cossiedreamer said:
U/J front prop rear u/j transfer box one , if it's slightly worn apparently will do this there is also an associated squel as it gets worse noticable more up hills/ higher revs / pulling/ reversing!!!! also un balanced prop if it's been of for hand brake work/ also u/j un greased.
Click to expand...

had another look under the car. it appears to have a new handbrake drum. how would the prob become unballanced if work has been carried out on this?
 
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