ciderman
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I think the vehicle dynamics of a series land rover isn't best served by more than about 100-150hp.
I think the vehicle dynamics of a series land rover isn't best served by more than about 100-150hp.
Quite a lot of work to fit a 6 cylinder into a 4 cylinder vehicle, the bulkhead, transmission tunnel, and bell housing are slightly different, to get the longer engine into the engine bay. They also have a different radiator to 4 cylinder.Were the six cylinder engined models a lot more expensive when they were new? There don't seem to be many about now.
Has anyone on here even seen a 6cyl fitted into an 88 as an engine swap?
Because the engine is differently placed, so is the transmission so the prop shafts are different as well.Quite a lot of work to fit a 6 cylinder into a 4 cylinder vehicle, the bulkhead, transmission tunnel, and bell housing are slightly different, to get the longer engine into the engine bay. They also have a different radiator to 4 cylinder.
The removal of 6 cylinders to fit other engines, often aftermarket, Perkins, Ford V6, etc, was common. Which is one of the reasons it is difficult to find a good 6 cylinder vehicle now.
I hope you manage to get it sorted, maybe some other more seriously penetrating solvent could be tried in the bores? Do you know the circumstances of how the engine seized?I have deliberately not taken bits off mine because they would just get lost and trashed over the 4 years or so it has been stored since I bought it. However when the chassis comes the engine will be coming out and I will be seeing just how bad it is. I hope it can be unseized or at least the original block recovered for reuse.
I tried when I first got it by dumping diesel down the bores etc and trying to crank it over with no joy. Will see what it is when I get it out and stripped and keep my fingers crossed
almost as pointless as the 2.25 diesel..
The diesel is adequate to the job, although 5 bearing is better than 3 bearing.I had the 2.25 diesel that came in my Series professionally rebuilt to as-new condition as I believe it is the original engine. I mean to the point of being re-bored, crankshaft reground, reconditioned injection pump etc. I thought I may as well spend the money then to hopefully avoid problems later on.
With all the problems I read about on here with setting carbs for the petrols, I am glad I made that decision. It is obviously noisy and slow, but will easily start after being stood. It is a hobby vehicle that does very few miles, so long term durability is not such an issue.
I had a 1974 diesel 109 and it was noisy and a bit slow but it went well enough if you worked through the gears, like with many old vehicles with a fairly narrow torque range. I liked it - it always started and it didn't seem to use too much diesel even with a drip coming from the pump - I read that this was common and could be solved with refurbing.I had the 2.25 diesel that came in my Series professionally rebuilt to as-new condition as I believe it is the original engine. I mean to the point of being re-bored, crankshaft reground, reconditioned injection pump etc. I thought I may as well spend the money then to hopefully avoid problems later on.
With all the problems I read about on here with setting carbs for the petrols, I am glad I made that decision. It is obviously noisy and slow, but will easily start after being stood. It is a hobby vehicle that does very few miles, so long term durability is not such an issue.
Quite possibly weeping from where the actuator arm goes into the governor housing. Common, and easy to fix with a small nitrile rubber O ring.I had a 1974 diesel 109 and it was noisy and a bit slow but it went well enough if you worked through the gears, like with many old vehicles with a fairly narrow torque range. I liked it - it always started and it didn't seem to use too much diesel even with a drip coming from the pump - I read that this was common and could be solved with refurbing.
Yes that sounds like what it was, never got round to fixing it. Even passed its MOT like that.Quite possibly weeping from where the actuator arm goes into the governor housing. Common, and easy to fix with a small nitrile rubber O ring.
I have this to look forward to shortly. Once the chassis arrives I have a temp garage to erect and will start stripping. I have had the vehicle for a few years but have deliberately not taken it apart to avoid confusion and stop me breaking/losing bits.
Looks nice, I suppose it's the usual chassis repair. How bad is it, it's difficult to tell from the photo?Mine looked like this when I got it
View attachment 229433
Currently looks like this
View attachment 229434
Just about to pull the rear axle off then donkey out and chassis for blasting
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