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IMO that's the crossover one with bits from both years, I thought mine was one until I found all the bullet connectors on the butchered headlight wiring 
L322 Sight unseen L322 with inactive suspension..
- Thread starter conor1n
- Start date
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conor1n
Member
- Posts
- 47
- Location
- London, UK / Ireland
Yea it's super annoying.
I believe it is a crossover, where the exterior is facelifted as per 2006 MY but the interior is still the older.
Talking about wiring.. this particular pic made me think there was something funny going to get the 2010 facelift headlights working. Turns out the headlights are standard.. and i'm left scratching my head as to what this stuff is..
What do you think? Perhaps similar to what you were talking about???
I believe it is a crossover, where the exterior is facelifted as per 2006 MY but the interior is still the older.
Talking about wiring.. this particular pic made me think there was something funny going to get the 2010 facelift headlights working. Turns out the headlights are standard.. and i'm left scratching my head as to what this stuff is..
What do you think? Perhaps similar to what you were talking about???
Attachments
conor1n
Member
- Posts
- 47
- Location
- London, UK / Ireland
Quick update..
Yesterday I received the GAP IID from a friend, which is great. I managed to run a scan, results below.
When I went to car today, it was dead. So connected up a pack, started fine - and to my surprise the radio was back working - here's hoping all electrical fixes are that easy LMAO!!
I had a quick run around the car with handbrake on and car in Reverse... Turns out 3 of the rear PDC sensors are gone (No clicking), where as all the others clicked. I also actually noticed the same corned with the faulty sensors got paint .. I could see the tape lines in the bumper gaps. I wonder is that a coincidence.. loose connections or something? Will need to get bumper off and investigate.
I also had a look at the spare wheel (Factory L322 Supercharged) and it's got a 275 wide tyre. Factory size is 250, and i'm wondering if 275 is ok on that. I am planning on buying the 3 wheels that another user has for sale and moving over the wheels from the existing Sport wheels on the car.. If they are a safe fit, that could be a fairly decent set of events
The car had been sitting a week and has remained like this - I think it's safe to say that the rear air suspension setup has no leaks. Never mind the black tape - I poked a hole in the rust and don't want any water ingress while the car is waiting to be brought in.
I have also made a little errrr... progress on the heating front... Well, I had the car running for a bit while I was at it today, say 20 mins (ish). No hot air at all, but once things got warm, the temperature needle shot up to near max. When having a look around under the bonnet I noticed the coolant was low. Grand needs topping up. I read somewhere that if the coolant is low it can't reach the rad. I don't think mine is that low.
When leaving, I killed the engine before closing the bonnet. When closing, I could hear a kind of hissing... like something leaking under pressure...! Then for some reason I opened the coolant expansion bottle and the coolant started bubbling up. At first, I was like, HEAD GASKET!!
One of the guys reckons the thermostat is stuck closed which means the coolant isn't going through the heater matrix for hot air, or through the rad to cool it? He reckons I could take the inside of the thermostat out, to open it and see how things change.. along with topping up coolant. Thoughts..
How much is a genuine LR thermostat? I see there is an aftermarket one there somewhere for less than £15.
Sooo.. On the topic of error codes. I scanned with IID and got loads and loads of stuff.. I cleared them and scanned again, and what I received is shown below.
Please keep the following known issues in mind:
VIN SALLxxxxxx
Model L322 - Range Rover 2006
Vehicle scanned on 7 Nov 2021 12:32:13
IIDControl 3.0.0 Build 84 Android - IIDTool BT V3.0 B2643
ARM-Airbag
0x5 Front Left Thorax Airbag
BPM-Body Processor
0xA0 Driver door mirror heater: open circuit
FEM-Navigation
U1A00-87 (2F) Private bus circuit - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 07-11-2021 12:31:09 at 720643 km )
LCM-Light Control
0x52 Check brake fluid fault
0x7A Front left sidelight defective
0x7B Front right sidelight defective
0x92 Rear left foglight defective
TMC-Traffic Message
B1A56-18 (2F) Antenna circuit - General electrical failure - circuit current below threshold
TVM-Television
B1D58-13 (2F) Television output circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open
Yesterday I received the GAP IID from a friend, which is great. I managed to run a scan, results below.
When I went to car today, it was dead. So connected up a pack, started fine - and to my surprise the radio was back working - here's hoping all electrical fixes are that easy LMAO!!
I had a quick run around the car with handbrake on and car in Reverse... Turns out 3 of the rear PDC sensors are gone (No clicking), where as all the others clicked. I also actually noticed the same corned with the faulty sensors got paint .. I could see the tape lines in the bumper gaps. I wonder is that a coincidence.. loose connections or something? Will need to get bumper off and investigate.
I also had a look at the spare wheel (Factory L322 Supercharged) and it's got a 275 wide tyre. Factory size is 250, and i'm wondering if 275 is ok on that. I am planning on buying the 3 wheels that another user has for sale and moving over the wheels from the existing Sport wheels on the car.. If they are a safe fit, that could be a fairly decent set of events
The car had been sitting a week and has remained like this - I think it's safe to say that the rear air suspension setup has no leaks. Never mind the black tape - I poked a hole in the rust and don't want any water ingress while the car is waiting to be brought in.
I have also made a little errrr... progress on the heating front... Well, I had the car running for a bit while I was at it today, say 20 mins (ish). No hot air at all, but once things got warm, the temperature needle shot up to near max. When having a look around under the bonnet I noticed the coolant was low. Grand needs topping up. I read somewhere that if the coolant is low it can't reach the rad. I don't think mine is that low.
When leaving, I killed the engine before closing the bonnet. When closing, I could hear a kind of hissing... like something leaking under pressure...! Then for some reason I opened the coolant expansion bottle and the coolant started bubbling up. At first, I was like, HEAD GASKET!!
One of the guys reckons the thermostat is stuck closed which means the coolant isn't going through the heater matrix for hot air, or through the rad to cool it? He reckons I could take the inside of the thermostat out, to open it and see how things change.. along with topping up coolant. Thoughts..
How much is a genuine LR thermostat? I see there is an aftermarket one there somewhere for less than £15.
Sooo.. On the topic of error codes. I scanned with IID and got loads and loads of stuff.. I cleared them and scanned again, and what I received is shown below.
Please keep the following known issues in mind:
- Leak in either the front right airbag or valve block.
- Front passenger door card is removed with the airbag out and disconnected along with all the other electronics.
- Glass is missing from the driver wing mirror.
VIN SALLxxxxxx
Model L322 - Range Rover 2006
Vehicle scanned on 7 Nov 2021 12:32:13
IIDControl 3.0.0 Build 84 Android - IIDTool BT V3.0 B2643
ARM-Airbag
0x5 Front Left Thorax Airbag
BPM-Body Processor
0xA0 Driver door mirror heater: open circuit
FEM-Navigation
U1A00-87 (2F) Private bus circuit - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 07-11-2021 12:31:09 at 720643 km )
LCM-Light Control
0x52 Check brake fluid fault
0x7A Front left sidelight defective
0x7B Front right sidelight defective
0x92 Rear left foglight defective
TMC-Traffic Message
B1A56-18 (2F) Antenna circuit - General electrical failure - circuit current below threshold
TVM-Television
B1D58-13 (2F) Television output circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,024
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Coolant is under pressure when at running temperature, release that pressure and it will boil, lucky you didn't get a face full of scalding water.Quick update..
Yesterday I received the GAP IID from a friend, which is great. I managed to run a scan, results below.
When I went to car today, it was dead. So connected up a pack, started fine - and to my surprise the radio was back working - here's hoping all electrical fixes are that easy LMAO!!
I had a quick run around the car with handbrake on and car in Reverse... Turns out 3 of the rear PDC sensors are gone (No clicking), where as all the others clicked. I also actually noticed the same corned with the faulty sensors got paint .. I could see the tape lines in the bumper gaps. I wonder is that a coincidence.. loose connections or something? Will need to get bumper off and investigate.
I also had a look at the spare wheel (Factory L322 Supercharged) and it's got a 275 wide tyre. Factory size is 250, and i'm wondering if 275 is ok on that. I am planning on buying the 3 wheels that another user has for sale and moving over the wheels from the existing Sport wheels on the car.. If they are a safe fit, that could be a fairly decent set of events
View attachment 252191
The car had been sitting a week and has remained like this - I think it's safe to say that the rear air suspension setup has no leaks. Never mind the black tape - I poked a hole in the rust and don't want any water ingress while the car is waiting to be brought in.
View attachment 252192
I have also made a little errrr... progress on the heating front... Well, I had the car running for a bit while I was at it today, say 20 mins (ish). No hot air at all, but once things got warm, the temperature needle shot up to near max. When having a look around under the bonnet I noticed the coolant was low. Grand needs topping up. I read somewhere that if the coolant is low it can't reach the rad. I don't think mine is that low.
When leaving, I killed the engine before closing the bonnet. When closing, I could hear a kind of hissing... like something leaking under pressure...! Then for some reason I opened the coolant expansion bottle and the coolant started bubbling up. At first, I was like, HEAD GASKET!!
One of the guys reckons the thermostat is stuck closed which means the coolant isn't going through the heater matrix for hot air, or through the rad to cool it? He reckons I could take the inside of the thermostat out, to open it and see how things change.. along with topping up coolant. Thoughts..
How much is a genuine LR thermostat? I see there is an aftermarket one there somewhere for less than £15.
View attachment 252193
Sooo.. On the topic of error codes. I scanned with IID and got loads and loads of stuff.. I cleared them and scanned again, and what I received is shown below.
Please keep the following known issues in mind:
In reviewing looks like everything is in order really. Along with the above items, looks like just a few bulbs - hopefully it's just bulbs and I don't need whole headlights lol. I wouldn't be bothered about the TMC and TV errors.
- Leak in either the front right airbag or valve block.
- Front passenger door card is removed with the airbag out and disconnected along with all the other electronics.
- Glass is missing from the driver wing mirror.
VIN SALLxxxxxx
Model L322 - Range Rover 2006
Vehicle scanned on 7 Nov 2021 12:32:13
IIDControl 3.0.0 Build 84 Android - IIDTool BT V3.0 B2643
ARM-Airbag
0x5 Front Left Thorax Airbag
BPM-Body Processor
0xA0 Driver door mirror heater: open circuit
FEM-Navigation
U1A00-87 (2F) Private bus circuit - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 07-11-2021 12:31:09 at 720643 km )
LCM-Light Control
0x52 Check brake fluid fault
0x7A Front left sidelight defective
0x7B Front right sidelight defective
0x92 Rear left foglight defective
TMC-Traffic Message
B1A56-18 (2F) Antenna circuit - General electrical failure - circuit current below threshold
TVM-Television
B1D58-13 (2F) Television output circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open
conor1n
Member
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- 47
- Location
- London, UK / Ireland
Yes.. lol
jwrrc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 619
- Location
- Warwickshire, UK
Having worked on a few Clio 182s, if that's where you learned stuff, I reckon you'll be fine with Rangies. Sporty Renaults are the most infuriating cars I've ever touched. I genuinely think they intentionally made things harder to do on them. They drive great though!Quick update..
Yesterday I received the GAP IID from a friend, which is great. I managed to run a scan, results below.
When I went to car today, it was dead. So connected up a pack, started fine - and to my surprise the radio was back working - here's hoping all electrical fixes are that easy LMAO!!
I had a quick run around the car with handbrake on and car in Reverse... Turns out 3 of the rear PDC sensors are gone (No clicking), where as all the others clicked. I also actually noticed the same corned with the faulty sensors got paint .. I could see the tape lines in the bumper gaps. I wonder is that a coincidence.. loose connections or something? Will need to get bumper off and investigate.
I also had a look at the spare wheel (Factory L322 Supercharged) and it's got a 275 wide tyre. Factory size is 250, and i'm wondering if 275 is ok on that. I am planning on buying the 3 wheels that another user has for sale and moving over the wheels from the existing Sport wheels on the car.. If they are a safe fit, that could be a fairly decent set of events
View attachment 252191
The car had been sitting a week and has remained like this - I think it's safe to say that the rear air suspension setup has no leaks. Never mind the black tape - I poked a hole in the rust and don't want any water ingress while the car is waiting to be brought in.
View attachment 252192
I have also made a little errrr... progress on the heating front... Well, I had the car running for a bit while I was at it today, say 20 mins (ish). No hot air at all, but once things got warm, the temperature needle shot up to near max. When having a look around under the bonnet I noticed the coolant was low. Grand needs topping up. I read somewhere that if the coolant is low it can't reach the rad. I don't think mine is that low.
When leaving, I killed the engine before closing the bonnet. When closing, I could hear a kind of hissing... like something leaking under pressure...! Then for some reason I opened the coolant expansion bottle and the coolant started bubbling up. At first, I was like, HEAD GASKET!!
One of the guys reckons the thermostat is stuck closed which means the coolant isn't going through the heater matrix for hot air, or through the rad to cool it? He reckons I could take the inside of the thermostat out, to open it and see how things change.. along with topping up coolant. Thoughts..
How much is a genuine LR thermostat? I see there is an aftermarket one there somewhere for less than £15.
View attachment 252193
Sooo.. On the topic of error codes. I scanned with IID and got loads and loads of stuff.. I cleared them and scanned again, and what I received is shown below.
Please keep the following known issues in mind:
In reviewing looks like everything is in order really. Along with the above items, looks like just a few bulbs - hopefully it's just bulbs and I don't need whole headlights lol. I wouldn't be bothered about the TMC and TV errors.
- Leak in either the front right airbag or valve block.
- Front passenger door card is removed with the airbag out and disconnected along with all the other electronics.
- Glass is missing from the driver wing mirror.
VIN SALLxxxxxx
Model L322 - Range Rover 2006
Vehicle scanned on 7 Nov 2021 12:32:13
IIDControl 3.0.0 Build 84 Android - IIDTool BT V3.0 B2643
ARM-Airbag
0x5 Front Left Thorax Airbag
BPM-Body Processor
0xA0 Driver door mirror heater: open circuit
FEM-Navigation
U1A00-87 (2F) Private bus circuit - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 07-11-2021 12:31:09 at 720643 km )
LCM-Light Control
0x52 Check brake fluid fault
0x7A Front left sidelight defective
0x7B Front right sidelight defective
0x92 Rear left foglight defective
TMC-Traffic Message
B1A56-18 (2F) Antenna circuit - General electrical failure - circuit current below threshold
TVM-Television
B1D58-13 (2F) Television output circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open
Have you checked the condition of the battery? When they start dying some cars throw all sorts of spurious codes out, which is unhelpful when you know you've got some legitimate codes to check.
conor1n
Member
- Posts
- 47
- Location
- London, UK / Ireland
Interesting.
To be honest, not done a massive amount on the Clio really. Just stripped it to a shell so far and is yet to go back together.
I learned most of my stuff on my E350 which is difficult to work on I think.
YouTube is there to save me anyway
I need to stock up on documentation from LR though, workshop manuals, guides etc.
To be honest, not done a massive amount on the Clio really. Just stripped it to a shell so far and is yet to go back together.
I learned most of my stuff on my E350 which is difficult to work on I think.
YouTube is there to save me anyway
I need to stock up on documentation from LR though, workshop manuals, guides etc.
jwrrc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 619
- Location
- Warwickshire, UK
You've encountered the seat bolts that, rather than being inside the car like every other car I've owned, are soaked in road dirt and water cos they bolt in from outside underneath the car!Interesting.
To be honest, not done a massive amount on the Clio really. Just stripped it to a shell so far and is yet to go back together.
I learned most of my stuff on my E350 which is difficult to work on I think.
YouTube is there to save me anyway
I need to stock up on documentation from LR though, workshop manuals, guides etc.
YouTube is great for Landies, and people on here are always most helpful
conor1n
Member
- Posts
- 47
- Location
- London, UK / Ireland
You've encountered the seat bolts that, rather than being inside the car like every other car I've owned, are soaked in road dirt and water cos they bolt in from outside underneath the car!
YouTube is great for Landies, and people on here are always most helpful
Oh yes.. and the subframe bolts with the weird captive nut things made out tin foil.. that reminds me, need to replace the bolts I had to cut (before I learned about fire LMAO)
- Posts
- 6,225
- Location
- North Manchester
Missed this one
I doubt thats LR installed. Have you traced the wire? maybe some after market DRLs or spots?
Trace the wires from that. Looks like someone has been diying something.
The hissing from the filler cap could just be a defective cap, not unusual on vehicles & worth replacing.
If you're worried about it being hgf then check the coolant for the presence of exhaust gases - assuming you have no unexplained coolant loss to begin with.
The hissing from the filler cap could just be a defective cap, not unusual on vehicles & worth replacing.
If you're worried about it being hgf then check the coolant for the presence of exhaust gases - assuming you have no unexplained coolant loss to begin with.
conor1n
Member
- Posts
- 47
- Location
- London, UK / Ireland
I need to test the battery, although I would like to get it driving for a while and see if the engine is ok before fixing up ancillary issues - i'll see how far I get on this batter. Cheers
Missed this one
I doubt thats LR installed. Have you traced the wire? maybe some after market DRLs or spots?
Yea, It certainly didn't look LR installed to even my untrained eye. I'll have a look at tracing, first glance did show a wire heading towards the lights.
I'll try draining and bleeding the system first and see where that takes me.
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- 6,225
- Location
- North Manchester
Could be worse, this was my headlight wiring before I tidied it up
you can also see the butchered wing that I have yet to sort out.
After
conor1n
Member
- Posts
- 47
- Location
- London, UK / Ireland
Hi everybody,
It's been a while... and I apologise for my silence and lack of updates. Here is a bit of a bumper update.
I finally got to start work on my Landy over the holiday period and "got it driving".. This is in quotes, because I fixed the brakes and suspension but not yet taken it out on public roads.
Is this jacking point ok, yes?
Now, where to start..?
First off, I went about fixing up the O/S front brake line and air bag. I went cheap and got only the airbag (no strut) from Aerosus. I have a pair of these on my E Class Merc and seem to be working well for a while now. I replaced the entire brake line (shortest in car!) while I was at it, in lieu of some cut and shut job. Admittedly copper, as nobody local had Kunifer (Except one price gouger!). Once these jobs were completed, it was great to see the suspension working as expected again, and also have a hard brake pedal. Before long, I do plan on inspection the various other brake line area, where grime could build up and encourage rot.
Quick photo dump of the job..
Birds nest..
Very rusty, heh!? Just surface really. My plan with this kind of surface rust as I get to various places is:
* Wire wheel (various)
* BH Deox Gel / Hydrate 80
* Silver Hammerite - Cheap and Cheerful!
* Some overcoat like Hammerite underbody seal / dinitrol.
Brake line tooling..
The air spring to be replaced €165 to my door wasn't bad.
These two nuts/bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle were well and truly seized up. Plenty of MAPP gas/breaker bar action to get them off. I also needed to thread the nuts back on after and use them to pound the bolts through. The nut I used was replaced after.
The removed strut - Admittedly a bit sorry looking. The honest truth is that I don't have time to treat any rust etc this time around as I am still neck deep in the Clio project. I have promised myself to finish that before starting into something else. As much as it kills me. This Landy is going back together as is, with a view to addressing the rust at a later date.
Here is more rust.. everywhere I look really... This is the strut tower. It looks like moderate surface rust that is progressing/deteriorating nicely. Might not scare some people, but it does me.. and this will be addressed also. It took 17 years to get this far, so another few months ain't going to kill it, is my view.
Oh and.. while I was doing all this work, I blanked off the leaky pipe in the ABS module. It was delightful to find a strong pedal with that in place. No more leaks for now..
It's been a while... and I apologise for my silence and lack of updates. Here is a bit of a bumper update.
I finally got to start work on my Landy over the holiday period and "got it driving".. This is in quotes, because I fixed the brakes and suspension but not yet taken it out on public roads.
Is this jacking point ok, yes?
Now, where to start..?
First off, I went about fixing up the O/S front brake line and air bag. I went cheap and got only the airbag (no strut) from Aerosus. I have a pair of these on my E Class Merc and seem to be working well for a while now. I replaced the entire brake line (shortest in car!) while I was at it, in lieu of some cut and shut job. Admittedly copper, as nobody local had Kunifer (Except one price gouger!). Once these jobs were completed, it was great to see the suspension working as expected again, and also have a hard brake pedal. Before long, I do plan on inspection the various other brake line area, where grime could build up and encourage rot.
Quick photo dump of the job..
Birds nest..
Very rusty, heh!? Just surface really. My plan with this kind of surface rust as I get to various places is:
* Wire wheel (various)
* BH Deox Gel / Hydrate 80
* Silver Hammerite - Cheap and Cheerful!
* Some overcoat like Hammerite underbody seal / dinitrol.
Brake line tooling..
The air spring to be replaced €165 to my door wasn't bad.
These two nuts/bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle were well and truly seized up. Plenty of MAPP gas/breaker bar action to get them off. I also needed to thread the nuts back on after and use them to pound the bolts through. The nut I used was replaced after.
The removed strut - Admittedly a bit sorry looking. The honest truth is that I don't have time to treat any rust etc this time around as I am still neck deep in the Clio project. I have promised myself to finish that before starting into something else. As much as it kills me. This Landy is going back together as is, with a view to addressing the rust at a later date.
Here is more rust.. everywhere I look really... This is the strut tower. It looks like moderate surface rust that is progressing/deteriorating nicely. Might not scare some people, but it does me.. and this will be addressed also. It took 17 years to get this far, so another few months ain't going to kill it, is my view.
Oh and.. while I was doing all this work, I blanked off the leaky pipe in the ABS module. It was delightful to find a strong pedal with that in place. No more leaks for now..
conor1n
Member
- Posts
- 47
- Location
- London, UK / Ireland
This is the air compression tank... boo!
Here's where things get really juicy!! (In the cars defence, a huuuuge amount of L322s are like this!)
The running boards are coming off.. this side isn't too bad and might survive, but the other one is largely missing to rust.
Oh I found this when poking at the rear arch rust area, previously. looks like somebody just glued on a piece of steel before. Seems to have stood the test of time.....
Attachments
conor1n
Member
- Posts
- 47
- Location
- London, UK / Ireland
And finally..
There was a coolant leak, which I managed to pressure test and find a perished o-ring in the thermostat housing. An o-ring fixed that leak, which was nice.
The final thing preventing me from driving this now, is that the LCM seems knackered. Off all the symptoms, the two things holding up the driving is:
* The indicators blink extremely slowly
* No indicators in the cluster showing what lights are on.. which is a problem for main beams, as I could be driving around blinding everybody without knowing.
Today I am going to remove the LCM, bring home to dry it out and also open it up to check the MOSFETs on it. If the drying out doesn't help, I might change the MOSFETs.
There was a coolant leak, which I managed to pressure test and find a perished o-ring in the thermostat housing. An o-ring fixed that leak, which was nice.
The final thing preventing me from driving this now, is that the LCM seems knackered. Off all the symptoms, the two things holding up the driving is:
* The indicators blink extremely slowly
* No indicators in the cluster showing what lights are on.. which is a problem for main beams, as I could be driving around blinding everybody without knowing.
Today I am going to remove the LCM, bring home to dry it out and also open it up to check the MOSFETs on it. If the drying out doesn't help, I might change the MOSFETs.
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- 3,961
- Location
- Near Heathrow.
Obviously welding first, but it looks like the passenger door has been an issue for a while ?
Reason(s) for failure
Reason(s) for failure
- Front passenger door cannot be opened from inside the vehicle (6.2.B.1b)
- Front passenger door cannot be opened from outside the vehicle (6.2.B.1b)
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,893
- Location
- south east london
No cabin heat is usually a failed aux heating pump right hand side of the engine bay if the coolant was that low heater core can air lock very easily.
conor1n
Member
- Posts
- 47
- Location
- London, UK / Ireland
Oh yea, I believe could be many things. Thankfully it was just a leak that was running rhe level down. It was very low. The leak was just an o ring in thermostat housing. So fixed that and I think the leak is fixed now. I just need to dry the ground underneath and leave for a while.
I don't think I'll be doing the welding first. I'll get it driving first and see how the rest of it is.
Maij thing is to be able to get it tested and spin it around to ensure everything is working as is. When I have my Clio project finished I will take into the more involved work on the Range.
