Shuttle valve bypass fail

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Muddy viking

Muddy viking

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Location
Kent
Evening all...

Ok I know it's another 3 amigos post....

So I've had the Mexicans now for about a month and it's time to evict them.. shuttle valve bypass complete... However... It seems it didn't work. All the videos I've looked at, they have done the bypass, turned on the truck and they disappear.... Not in my case... The all disappear, the the abs light comes one, then 2 Seconds after all three! Do I need to get the fault code cleared for it to work?

I'm. completely stumped! I've got a MOT due nex week!!!! Any tips, tricks or something so simple that I've missed would be great.
 
Muddy viking said:
Evening all...

Ok I know it's another 3 amigos post....

So I've had the Mexicans now for about a month and it's time to evict them.. shuttle valve bypass complete... However... It seems it didn't work. All the videos I've looked at, they have done the bypass, turned on the truck and they disappear.... Not in my case... The all disappear, the the abs light comes one, then 2 Seconds after all three! Do I need to get the fault code cleared for it to work?

I'm. completely stumped! I've got a MOT due nex week!!!! Any tips, tricks or something so simple that I've missed would be great.
Click to expand...
Have you done a diagnostics read out?
You could still have a hub out of true or someother reason for the 3 amigos.
Most peeps do the shuttle valve bypass after all the hubs have been given a clean bill of health.
Apologies if you have already done this.
 
If you made the bypass correctly which means cut the wires and prolonged them out after you measured the resistances to know that the switches are OK means hat the fault which triggers the amigos is not SVS related cos only then you can expect the SVS mod to work as it the fault is about something else that mod is useless
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Have you done a diagnostics read out?
You could still have a hub out of true or someother reason for the 3 amigos.
Most peeps do the shuttle valve bypass after all
the hubs have been given a clean bill of health.
Apologies if you have already done this.
Click to expand...


Thank you, I will open up the diagnostic machine again to double check.
 
Once you clear the fault codes, take ‘er for a spin. That should clear the 3 Amigos.
If you still get a fault for the right rear sensor, then you can check the cable connection and go from there troubleshooting.
 
Being optimistic, that might work.
Being pessimistic but sadly realistic, it'll need a new hub.
Sadly the hub when worn enough to set off the 3 amigos often has no detectable wear to manipulation by hand.
(Speaks one who has changed 3 of the 4 hubs and knows the 4th needs changing as there is a slight "droning " noise coming from it.)
Could never feel the play that the sensor could detect in two of them, the third was droning and on removal showed signs of loss of lubricant and water ingress.
Best of luck.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Being optimistic, that might work.
Being pessimistic but sadly realistic, it'll need a new hub.
Sadly the hub when worn enough to set off the 3 amigos often has no detectable wear to manipulation by hand.
(Speaks one who has changed 3 of the 4 hubs and knows the 4th needs changing as there is a slight "droning " noise coming from it.)
Could never feel the play that the sensor could detect in two of them, the third was droning and on removal showed signs of loss of lubricant and water ingress.
Best of luck.
Click to expand...

Thank you.. well I'll always try the easy option 1st lol!! But it's so strange,.Ive had no strange noises or any sign of wear and tear.. but i.will absolutely do more investigation this week .
 
Muddy viking said:
Thank you.. well I'll always try the easy option 1st lol!! But it's so strange,.Ive had no strange noises or any sign of wear and tear.. but i.will absolutely do more investigation this week .
Click to expand...
That really is the nub of the problem, you never seem to really hear them when worn, but the reluctor ring only has to move a tiny amount away from the sensor for the 3 amigos to come on. Less than 1/2 a mm I believe.
There are threads on here about replacing them and how to get the hub nut back up to torque without having to borrow a stupid powerful torque wrench. But I daresay you know all that already.
I try to look on it positively. It is your friendly Disco looking after you and not letting you drive around on dodgy hubs.:rolleyes::D
 
Muddy viking said:
Evening all...

Ok I know it's another 3 amigos post....

So I've had the Mexicans now for about a month and it's time to evict them.. shuttle valve bypass complete... However... It seems it didn't work. All the videos I've looked at, they have done the bypass, turned on the truck and they disappear.... Not in my case... The all disappear, the the abs light comes one, then 2 Seconds after all three! Do I need to get the fault code cleared for it to work?

I'm. completely stumped! I've got a MOT due nex week!!!! Any tips, tricks or something so simple that I've missed would be great.
Click to expand...
I had the same problem, I discovered that with some shuttle valve switch bypass methods in which the shuttle valve switch remains electrically connected to the hydraulic control block there is a polarity and if you have it backwards the lights come on right away! Here's a link to a brief video I made describing how to diagnose your problem.
 
Rover Easy said:
I had the same problem, I discovered that with some shuttle valve switch bypass methods in which the shuttle valve switch remains electrically connected to the hydraulic control block there is a polarity and if you have it backwards the lights come on right away! Here's a link to a brief video I made describing how to diagnose your problem.
Click to expand...

I hate to do this but i must cos your theory is completely wrong as a result of not knowing what that SVS pack contains or how the system works ... there are simple resistors in it so nothing to do with any "polarity" whatsoever, once you'll understand what's about here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ring-mod-option-b-graphic-explanation.272156/ i hope you'll realise... and FYI this system is the same on all, none of them is "wired differently" as you say there
 
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sierrafery said:
I hate to do this but i must cos your theory is completely wrong as a result of not knowing what that SVS pack contains or how the system works ... there are simple resistors in it so nothing to do with any "polarity" whatsoever, once you'll understand what's about here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ring-mod-option-b-graphic-explanation.272156/ i hope you'll realise... and FYI this system is the same on all, none of them is "wired differently" as you say there
Click to expand...
Even me, and you know me right? I thort "Resistances don't have polarity now do they? Polarity only matters for diodes." (and obviously other stuff.)
 
sierrafery said:
I hate to do this but i must cos your theory is completely wrong as a result of not knowing what that SVS pack contains or how the system works ... there are simple resistors in it so nothing to do with any "polarity" whatsoever, once you'll understand what's about here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ring-mod-option-b-graphic-explanation.272156/ i hope you'll realise... and FYI this system is the same on all, none of them is "wired differently" as you say there
Click to expand...
Well if you hate to do it why'd you do it? Just kidding! This is not a theory it's something that's been proven time and time again. When you use certain bypass methods in which the connections from the shuttle valve switch to The hydraulic control block connections are not severed you can have a problem. I'm using the word polarity because I don't know what other word to use even though I'm an electrical engineer. I'm going to go ahead and post a shuttle valve bypass method video that my additional necessary step applies to to clear up everything. In short what I'm trying to say is: If you use the aforementioned shuttle valve bypass method and you hook up the wires let's say backwards it's not gonna work in fact the three amigo lights will come on almost instantly. This method is actually strengthening the connections you're not really bypassing the shuttle valve switch it's bypassing the cracked circuit board or providing an alternate circuit path if you will.
 
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Rover Easy said:
Well if you hate to do it why'd you do it? Just kidding! This is not a theory it's something that's been proven time and time again. When you use certain bypass methods in which the connections from the shuttle valve switch to The hydraulic control block connections are not severed you can have a problem. I'm using the word polarity because I don't know what other word to use even though I'm an electrical engineer. I'm going to go ahead and post a shuttle valve bypass method video that my additional necessary step applies to to clear up everything. In short what I'm trying to say is: If you use the aforementioned shuttle valve bypass method and you hook up the wires let's say backwards it's not gonna work in fact the three amigo lights will come on almost instantly. This method is actually strengthening the connections you're not really bypassing the shuttle valve switch it's bypassing the cracked circuit board or providing an alternate circuit path if you will.
Click to expand...

What I was trying to say was: In the shuttle valve bypass video I just posted above the gentleman is not actually bypassing the shuttle valve switch. He's just compensating for the internal crack circuit board By providing an alternate path to the wiring harness IE: A parallel path. I'm sorry I'm just good at figuring stuff out not explaining stuff. Also when I say they're not all wired the same I've had that confirmed. If you follow the physical wire placement shown in the video above it usually works but not all the time: Sometimes you have to switch the wires around as I did and many other people whom have thanked me have done. The step I described tells you exactly where the wires need to go without any guessing or possible damage to your computer. The test is performed with the battery disconnected.
 
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Rover Easy said:
When you use certain bypass methods in which the connections from the shuttle valve switch to The hydraulic control block connections are not severed you can have a problem.
Click to expand...
I think this is the issue.
And I know 10/10ths of flip all about electronix.

For heaven's sake just tell people to always sever the connections and get on and make the new ones. then it'll work!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I think this is the issue.
And I know 10/10ths of flip all about electronix.

For heaven's sake just tell people to always sever the connections and get on and make the new ones. then it'll work!
Click to expand...
I think you're on to something there Mister Steamer! My fix or procedure is only for people that have already performed the aforementioned bypass method and it hasn't worked or for people that want to perform the aforementioned bypass method. There are definitely bypass methods that don't require this extra step. This post is actually just for the gentleman above that was having problems after he did the bypass or for anybody that may be having problems In the future. It definitely does not apply to everyone. The good thing about this procedure is if you already performed the bypass as mentioned above where you don't sever the shuttle valve switch wires and it didn't work, you don't have to take the whole thing apart you can just cut the wires that are now coming out of the shuttle valve switch and hopefully (After testing) just switch them around. I'm definitely not promoting one method of bypass over another.
 
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