Disco 2 Should the electric window child lock switch and wing mirror/light level switches illuminate?

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Alunee

Alunee

Member
Posts
21
Location
Elvngton, North Yorkshire
Hi,

After realising I wasn't getting any younger - or richer - I thought I should finally own the closest I can reasonably get to the car of my dreams, a Discovery 2 TD5 (Facelift) 2003. It's very much a working, family vehicle and the hope and intention is to keep on top of things and slowly improve it.

I've been reading and learning on here for a few months and tackling what I think I can safely deal with, replacing a door actuator, rear fog/reversing lens and several dashboard and console bulbs. For someone like me, that's a big achievement. I got help from a professional with a rotten radiator cradle and I'll be doing the same with the front wheel arches soon (they're not terrible).

I would like to know if the electric window child lock switch and wing mirror/light level switches should illuminate? I've searched and searched on the web and on here and cannot find a definite answer. The local Land Rover dealer were non-specific, quoting me a vast sum to investigate.

If someone could quickly tell me before I break the switches trying to find out, I would greatly appreciate it.

Many thanks.
 
Alunee said:
I would like to know if the electric window child lock switch and wing mirror/light level switches should illuminate? I've searched and searched on the web and on here and cannot find a definite answer. The local Land Rover dealer were non-specific, quoting me a vast sum to investigate.
Click to expand...
Hi, short answer: no, those switches are not illuminated.... as about investigation, it should take max 3 minutes to open RAVE - Circuit diagrams - Interior illumination... there are shown all the switches(by name) which are illuminated :cool:
 
As above. Plus, steer clear of the main stealer, no excuses! Buy your own diagnostic kit - cheaper than just about any main stealer involvement. IME, they treat customers as simple cash cows = best avoided.

Also, Welcome aboard :) - post some piccies, we likes piccies :rolleyes:

What's the rear of the chassis like for crustiness ??
 
sierrafery said:
Hi, short answer: no, those switches are not illuminated.... as about investigation, it should take max 3 minutes to open RAVE - Circuit diagrams - Interior illumination... there are shown all the switches(by name) which are illuminated :cool:
Click to expand...

Disco1BFG said:
As above. Plus, steer clear of the main stealer, no excuses! Buy your own diagnostic kit - cheaper than just about any main stealer involvement. IME, they treat customers as simple cash cows = best avoided.

Also, Welcome aboard :) - post some piccies, we likes piccies :rolleyes:

What's the rear of the chassis like for crustiness ??
Click to expand...

Hi again and thank you for your speedy responses. I work with computers and develop software - I spend all day every day not assuming customers know what I know - I am way out of my comfort zone here. Apologies if my question seemed "thick" (it probably is) or lazy (it isn't). Sometimes you need to know what to search for!

I've had a few PDFs on my desktop for weeks and they have added to my confusion. On page 107 in "DISCOVERY 2003MY Electrical Circuit Diagrams" a 1.2 Watt bulb is indicated (SWITCH-HEADLAMP LEVELLING S109). Like I say, I am sure I am being thick!

The rear end is literally mint and that along with no advisories and a reconditioned lump, as well as a fairly tidy interior, were the deciders. I looked at several. I have a leaky roof, but think I can sort that. I had no intention of going to a dealer, but such was my desperation trying to find an answer!

39366057462_c1f5d54e7b_z.jpg

39366057462
 
The headlamp levelling is illuminated but the mirrors adjustment is not.... that "wing mirror/light level" thing confused me and i meant only the wing mirror one, sorry
 
Alunee said:
Apologies if my question seemed "thick" (it probably is)
Click to expand...

It is NOT a "thick" question - the only "thick" question is the one you don't ask - we've all got different skills, so you ask away :)

Glad to hear the chassis is in good nick. IMHO, get some proper protection on it to keep it that way! (Dinitrol / Bilt Hamber - NO "underseal" - do a search ).
 
Disco1BFG said:
Glad to hear the chassis is in good nick. IMHO, get some proper protection on it to keep it that way! (Dinitrol / Bilt Hamber - NO "underseal" - do a search ).
Click to expand...

Thinking about it, the ON bit isn't quite right - slip of the tongue and all that :oops: - it should be IN - cos the little bar steward tin worms eat chassis / box sections from the inside out :rolleyes:
 
I'm affraid you'll have to figure this out yourself but it doesnt seem very hard, what i can tell you is how to remove the switch: pull off the button, undo that nut and you can remove the switch then, use a small flat screwdriver to push the plug's clip while you pull it to unplug, job done ... i didnt open one myself but if you push in those clips all around(pointed with red) and remove that cover i'm sure you can get to the bulb.... i dont even know what bulb it is so please make a pic and post it here or at least describe how you did it. Good luck

headlamp level switch.png
 
Well, you learn something new every day. Unfortunately for me, I will forget it again soon.

It's a green LED and would need a solder job on the board to replace. I've posted a pic along with the back of the stork (for interest). One thing, there are 6 prongs on the back of the switch, but the plug and loom only have 4 wires. I am guessing this is because of the vehicle and that the unit was used for more functions with other specs.

There are a few of these on a certain well know auction website. I might take a punt on a replacement.

20180131_143032.jpg
 
An update..! I got a new (old) headlamp levelling switch from eBay, the seller apparently bench tested it.

The exterior of the switch was in a much poorer condition to my own, so I swapped the innards. After briefly marvelling at how my dash looked like the Starship Enterprise compared to when I first got my Discovery and fiddling around putting it back together, all the night-time dashboard lights went out. No dimming, climate control buttons, window switches, etc. On further investigation, the glovebox lamp is also out. I checked the external lights and they seem fine (low beam, hi beam, sides, fogs, front, rear, reversing, indicators), tested the fuses under the bonnet and fuses 11 and 33 under the dash, before the it became too dark to go any further. I'll come back to it in the morning - any ideas where I should be looking? Fuses 15 and 20 seem the next step and I'm pretty sure it won't be the stork as there has never been an issue before and it's the same with both the old and new headlamp levelling switches. Worried I've pulled a wire somewhere, but don't think I have! :(
 
Rave is not complete in that area as facelifts interior fusebox's scheme is not covered and what's shown in RAVE is only for pre-facelifts eventually early facelifts and there are differencies, see PDF attachment if the label on the lid is like in the pic
Fusebox facelift.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Discovery Facelift fuses.pdf
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Do you have a part number on your replacement control?

Although they all look the same externally (apart from the early ones having Ash Grey housings, and the later ones, Black housings), the connections (and part numbers) are slightly different for the levelling control fitted to D1, D2 pre-facelift, D2 facelift, and Defender from 1999 onwards.
 
sierrafery said:
Rave is not complete in that area as facelifts interior fusebox's scheme is not covered and what's shown in RAVE is only for pre-facelifts eventually early facelifts and there are differencies, see PDF attachment if the label on the lid is like in the pic
View attachment 141251
Click to expand...

I couldn't help myself, fuse 3 it is, thank you! Now the switch lights up, but the levelling no longer works. I will have another play in the morning, maybe a dirty contact, I've already checked fuses 11 and 33.

PaulMc said:
Do you have a part number on your replacement control?

Although they all look the same externally (apart from the early ones having Ash Grey housings, and the later ones, Black housings), the connections (and part numbers) are slightly different for the levelling control fitted to D1, D2 pre-facelift, D2 facelift, and Defender from 1999 onwards.
Click to expand...

I did look at this and the part number is YUK000020PUY. As it happens, you can still buy one new and for less than some are trying to charge for used switches on that well known online auction house. I'm tempted, once I've checked the wiring.
 
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