Series King Cab

Dr_evil · Oct 20, 2013

So heres a fairly rough axle case design, need to get hold of an old axle in order to get proper dimensions but fairly simple four piece axle

The case has the diff fitted inside via eight bolts and then three cover plates bolt on over the top. These cover plates allow me to get access to the UJ's in order to grease them, service the brakes, drop the oil in the diff etc

and raises up the pinion by 2" meaning I can run a slightly lower angle prop combined with the 2" extension I'll get by removing the LT230 handbrake drum seeing as I no longer need it

discomark10 · Oct 20, 2013

wont matter that much if its 1or2 deg out, there's a diff

the_wolf · Oct 20, 2013

That's emm some fancy computer stuff you've got goin on there. What happened to using a pencil and paper, 's what I do

Dr_evil · Oct 20, 2013

the_wolf said:
That's emm some fancy computer stuff you've got goin on there. What happened to using a pencil and paper, 's what I do

I sketched it roughly on A3 first, in fact if I get bored during the week I may do a full set of hand drawn engineering sketches

they're not hard to do once you get used to it

nrgserv · Oct 20, 2013

is this ere jag axle diff centrally mounted or offset?
whats the halfhaft lengths?

Dr_evil · Oct 20, 2013

Its central so I'll have to extend one of the drive shafts slightly, not measured the shafts lengths yet but its essentially a LR diff inside with locker so could get it into a normal sal axle casing I'd think

robbh · Oct 20, 2013

Looks the wrong way round :scratching_chin:

Unless you is looking at it from the front

Dr_evil · Oct 20, 2013

I is looking at it front on

gonna get hold of the blank casing and start making exact measurements

nrgserv · Oct 20, 2013

Dr_evil said:
Its central so I'll have to extend one of the drive shafts slightly, not measured the shafts lengths yet but its essentially a LR diff inside with locker so could get it into a normal sal axle casing I'd think

so is it narrower than a series track?

Dr_evil · Oct 20, 2013

nrgserv said:
so is it narrower than a series track?

No once built up its the same width as a series one, the hubs are quite long

Now been talking to someone and thinking about making the rear axle a tiny bit wider than standard to act like it was spaced…….however would it make it a bit awkward to control if the rear axle was wider than the front….if so I'll be keeping it the same width

Dr_evil · Oct 21, 2013

Just drawn up a modified to do list

well its just under a side of A4 and 75% are small jobs such as finishing the rear tub bolts, fitting the seats and wiring stuff up

Dr_evil · Oct 21, 2013

Only a couple of pics as it started ****ing it down and I didn't want to take my phone out after that

Anyway I've used M4 stainless bolts on the rear tub instead of rivets……hate rivets

but on the plus side I bought a diddy little spanner

Also found out with a tiny bit of trimming the V8 Jag radiator will fit so the honda ones getting drained and I'm fitting the Jag one. Better to overcool than undercool plus the Jag one has a fan fitted already which means I don't have to make a bracket

aaronmorris · Oct 21, 2013

They say the last 10% takes 90% of the time, I know this all to well from my own project.
Thought I only had a couple of days work and a month down the line I had only just finished it. I did kind of loose interest for a bit though, Which didn't help. Just plod of and you'll get there In the end

Oh and use rivets, Will look betterer than bolts. Get your self a set of lazy tongs or some long arm ones and they're a doddle.
I got my self one of these.
RIVNUT TOOL + RIVETTER LONG ARM M4 - M10 | eBay
and it made life much easier. Although I didn't pay that,
Oh and it has the advantage of doing rivnuts

Jam1 · Oct 21, 2013

aaronmorris said:
Oh and use rivets, Will look betterer than bolts.

Rivets do look better than hex headed bolts but for the best of both worlds get some button headed bolts

They're actually screws not bolts by the way if you want to be pedantic

aaronmorris · Oct 21, 2013

Jam1 said:
Rivets do look better than hex headed bolts but for the best of both worlds get some button headed bolts

Yep I used stainless button and cap head bolts all the way through my build. (Only where I should mind

)

Dr_evil · Oct 21, 2013

haha yeah its definitely taking longer now but at least I'm working on it more or less daily

rain or shine!

I like the look of the bolt heads they look a lot more in keeping with the rest of my series

I need it done and through MOT by the end of feb so getting a proper move on and I'll be building the axle casing inside the shed so I can get some hours in once I sort the rest of the build out

tomorrow should be an easy enough day though…..well I hope! How hard can fitting a snorkel be

aaronmorris · Oct 21, 2013

Jam1 said:
They're actually screws not bolts by the way if you want to be pedantic

Wasn't being pedantic. Genuine question. When does a screw become a bolt

Jam1 · Oct 21, 2013

aaronmorris said:
Wasn't being pedantic. Genuine question. When does a screw become a bolt

Lol sorry mate that wasn't addressed directly at you just a general observation

Some say it's to do with where the threaded area starts/stops and if it has a unthreaded shank

jamesmartin · Oct 21, 2013

aaronmorris said:
Wasn't being pedantic. Genuine question. When does a screw become a bolt

when it has a nut securing it , though bolts with no shank are often called set screws

Jam1 · Oct 21, 2013

Yeah it's a bit like if you sit on a table does it become a chair.

Series King Cab

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