Series King Cab

Dr_evil · Oct 17, 2013

Iphone camera doesn't do it justice, sounds much nicer in person

Would love an aston V8 to dump in it or a Daimler 12

flat · Oct 18, 2013

Dr_evil said:
Iphone camera doesn't do it justice, sounds much nicer in person

Would love an aston V8 to dump in it or a Daimler 12

Lol i got another mate with a supercharged Daimler

they love their big block big power motors.

The Aston is a work of art. Not concourse as he actually drives it but, damn, had custom fuel rails made out of tig'd stainless steel all polished. Everything is perfect. It's a seriously nice motor.

The best bit is when you rev it in neutral the whole car rocks.

Dr_evil · Oct 18, 2013

The sign of a good V8 if it's rocking! Hopefully mine will once set up

Thor1950 · Oct 18, 2013

Dr_evil said:
The sign of a good V8 if it's rocking! Hopefully mine will once set up

not unless you put a hell of a big cam in it........... wish full thinking

Dr_evil · Oct 18, 2013

Had a change of tactic……as I hate rivets

I've gone and used some M4 bolts instead

Look nicer but no pics until I'm done, still got the other side to do

Dr_evil · Oct 19, 2013

Got the axle home today plus some free bits

will take some pics tomorrow but things look promising as its 10 spline like the series so hubs may fit!

If not PCD is 120 on the Jag axle so I can fit D2-D1 wheel adaptors to make life easier

Dr_evil · Oct 20, 2013

Heres the axle

had to dismantle it so I could get it out by myself as I had no engine hoist

So that was the subframe off and then onto the CV drive shafts! These things are very beefy

1 1/4" thick solid steel

Other one off

One bare diff with brakes

it also has a disc handbrake on this diff so that means I can do away with the standard brake drum and gain about two extra inches on the prop length

One free brand new 4.0L Jag V8 radiator with fan and oil cooler…….may swap it into the series if its not too wide

Not sure if you can make it out here but it says 3.54 on this

so need to swap out the front diff when this goes on! But its a nice LSD diff inside

Then I dropped it on my finger

got ****ed off and stopped messing with it

Anyway onto the drive shafts, hubs and other free bits. Leather steering wheel off a jag, new bearings, flexi-brake lines and seals too and the hubs/shafts are 10 spline so some salisbury rear ones may just fit!

The UJ's also have more than enough angle to allow me to lift up the diff 2" or slightly more in order to bring the drive line closer to 180*

One free Valeo 140A alternator

Dr_evil · Oct 20, 2013

Just to add I've only gone and won a safari snorkel for the series

lovely!

flat · Oct 20, 2013

How are you goIng to mount that monster diff under the arse of the series?

Dr_evil · Oct 20, 2013

I'm building it into a solid casing, Atomic style as the UJ's have more than enough angle in them to allow me at least 2" of lift within the axle

I may add in a some extra UJ's on the diff end in order to further raise it but we'll see

I'll sketch up the design later

but it'll mount to the leafs as the original one does

NiteMare · Oct 20, 2013

looking at those shafts i'll bet they're not designed to run a 2-2.5" droop on a permanent basis, they look too short to survive the stresses that'll be imparted ... i'd have thought to give them a chance of surviving the uj's would need to be at 45* to each other (i'm not an engineer so i'm only guessing on the angle) or are you thinking of turning them into double cardon ??

cv's would definitely outlast those but that would be chucking another problem into the mix

Thor1950 · Oct 20, 2013

A little scrape and you whining like a gurl

Just got a concern about them axles and your big tyres they just may snap or rip out the drive flange as its a 10 spline

Dr_evil · Oct 20, 2013

NiteMare said:
looking at those shafts i'll bet they're not designed to run a 2-2.5" droop on a permanent basis, they look too short to survive the stresses that'll be imparted ... i'd have thought to give them a chance of surviving the uj's would need to be at 45* to each other (i'm not an engineer so i'm only guessing on the angle) or are you thinking of turning them into double cardon ??

cv's would definitely outlast those but that would be chucking another problem into the mix

Possibly not but I shall see what they can survive, they are pretty beefy! Not exactly hard to beef them up but they are solid shafts UJ's are pretty big too

I was planning on going double on the diff end like the toyota axles

I'll be building them into a cranked casing will get a design uploaded later and transfer it to solidworks once I have a bare casing to use as a datum

Dr_evil · Oct 20, 2013

Thor1950 said:
A little scrape and you whining like a gurl Just got a concern about them axles and your big tyres they just may snap or rip out the drive flange as its a 10 spline

I was a little worried about the front one but given the jag axle is designed to take far more torque than the LR one it should hopefully be ok even with the 35's

Worse case is I just upgrade to 24 spline hubs off a later jag as the props are all interchangeable

jamesmartin · Oct 20, 2013

NiteMare said:
looking at those shafts i'll bet they're not designed to run a 2-2.5" droop on a permanent basis, they look too short to survive the stresses that'll be imparted ... i'd have thought to give them a chance of surviving the uj's would need to be at 45* to each other (i'm not an engineer so i'm only guessing on the angle) or are you thinking of turning them into double cardon ??

cv's would definitely outlast those but that would be chucking another problem into the mix

ujs are correctly phased , if both flanges prop fits between arent parallel then props ujs are sset out of phase

Thor1950 · Oct 20, 2013

Dr_evil said:
I was a little worried about the front one but given the jag axle is designed to take far more torque than the LR one it should hopefully be ok even with the 35's

Worse case is I just upgrade to 24 spline hubs off a later jag as the props are all interchangeable

weight, mass,and centrifugal force of 35 is way more than what jag tryes generate, by a 2-3 times

Dr_evil · Oct 20, 2013

Thor1950 said:
weight, mass,and centrifugal force of 35 is way more than what jag tryes generate, by a 2-3 times

I'd do the calculations to get the correct amount but I really cba, either way 24 spline isn't a hard upgrade to do on those just swap the flange end off for one of the newer ones

NiteMare · Oct 20, 2013

jamesmartin said:
ujs are correctly phased , if both flanges prop fits between arent parallel then props ujs are sset out of phase

i've no argument with your statement (i'm not sure i understand it) but i was considering the permanent angle/droop where when the uj's are both positioned thus "X" on each quarter revolution there'll be quite high stresses placed on the uj needle races

whereas if one is "X" and the other is "+" then i feel it may reduce the stress

the length of those shafts and the amount of droop is where i see the problem, longer shafts would reduce the stress but of course we're limited by the axle width

of course i may be talking out of my arse and if so i hold my hands up

jamesmartin · Oct 20, 2013

NiteMare said:
i've no argument with your statement (i'm not sure i understand it) but i was considering the permanent angle/droop where when the uj's are both positioned thus "X" on each quarter revolution there'll be quite high stresses placed on the uj needle races

whereas if one is "X" and the other is "+" then i feel it may reduce the stress

the length of those shafts and the amount of droop is where i see the problem, longer shafts would reduce the stress but of course we're limited by the axle width

of course i may be talking out of my arse and if so i hold my hands up

ujs obviously have a limit of angle they can cope with ,but if you look at front prop on a landy you will see diff flange and t/box flange arent in parallel hence fronts are out of phase if they were as they would be as rear drive shafts then they would be set in phase , phasing is not angle prop runs through but the angle of flanges in relation to each other

nrgserv · Oct 20, 2013

NiteMare said:
i've no argument with your statement (i'm not sure i understand it) but i was considering the permanent angle/droop where when the uj's are both positioned thus "X" on each quarter revolution there'll be quite high stresses placed on the uj needle races

whereas if one is "X" and the other is "+" then i feel it may reduce the stress

the length of those shafts and the amount of droop is where i see the problem, longer shafts would reduce the stress but of course we're limited by the axle width

of course i may be talking out of my arse and if so i hold my hands up

I think your on about the distance out of alignment with regard to the axis of both flanges. (parallel, but not on same axis)

jamesmartin said:
ujs obviously have a limit of angle they can cope with ,but if you look at front prop on a landy you will see diff flange and t/box flange arent in parallel hence fronts are out of phase if they were as they would be as rear drive shafts then they would be set in phase , phasing is not angle prop runs through but the angle of flanges in relation to each other

this is assuming the hubs get attached parallel to the diff

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