Series 3 109 Station Wagon, full ground up resto and 88 redo careless resto driving project

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Finally got all the correct parts and fitted then. Original Lucas mostly.
Everything's working much better, but occasionally getting a problem of the timing drifting off a bit and allowing Gigi to stall :-(
Maybe it's the vacuum advance, but it's all able to move freely.
I'll put some redex in the tank to clean the fuel system a little, but it's definitely the trimming that wanders off. If I rev up and let her settle back slowly, it seems to bring things back in line.
Maybe I just need to replace the distributor, but nothing mechanical is sticking.
Went for a big run yesterday, and walked the dog along a long off-road track at idle all the way without any issue.
 
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Everything replaced and set correctly, but there's still an intermittent fault with the dizzy.

I'm thinking the centrifugal weights are sticking, of the return springs for them or the vacuum advance have lost their tension. A bit like my waist lol.
When running well she runs very well, but then the timing goes off.
So I've ordered a new lucas 25D replacement dizzy.
Now I understand why the ignition was so far advanced, because it covered up the issue, most of the time.
Until it arrives I'm getting on with the dash refurb.
The foam came away really from this end steel section, which is fine as some sensitive metal re-fabricate is needed anyway.
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Then there were three, parts.
After some careful teasing apart.
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The steel will repair and be re-painted, foam glued back over, and fabric stretched over and glued on to finish.

It's just the third bit I'm a little unsure of. Because this part has three planes each at 90° so a four way stretch material may have been easier. But hey, might as well jump in at the deep end ┌(・。・)┘
 

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Yay,
The new dizzy's here (•‿•)
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I hope it's the right one, I hope I install it correctly and I hope it solves the timing wandering off problem.
It's a copy of the original Lucas, but seems of good quality
 
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Looking promising.
There is some play in the bushes of original
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And replacement has an extra O thing on the drive shaft housing, which seems a good idea
 

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Dizzy's great, but still got inconsistent rough running. So I cleaned the carb - filter and idle screw out. This has made everything so much more consistently smooth.
My carbs a Weber 34 ich, there was some junk in the filter housing. Big brass bolt just under the inlet. Some dirt was causing fuel starvation sometimes.
I've bought a service kit and will give it a service at some point. But she's running beautifully just now, enjoying getting lots of daily driving.
It's so much more fun driving an old series Landy, than my other car; unless it's a longer drive on a duel carriageway.
Gigi's been working hard in the woods too
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I may try fitting a very powerful magnet to the bottom of the steel fuel tank, somewhere not close to the outlet. So as to collect Any magnetic junk like potential tiny bits of rust.
 
Not Shure, it's a new tank, but I did clean out the glass bowl gravity filter last week and there was some tiny bits of rust there. I was going to put a powerful magnet under the fuel tank situated away from the fuel pickup area. The hope being to collect and hold any rust. Also have a Weber ICH 34 restore kit. So I'll rebuild the another ICH 34 carb I have, swap it and see.
Maybe I'll have to get the tank sealed, it's expensive stuff to use, but it would give more protection to ethanol I guess.
Also put some red ex in so that may help also.
 
Finally managed to get the top dash off.
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Still drivable lol
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There's some cleaning, treating and touching up of paint before the recovered dash goes back on. But I'm getting ahead of myself!
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The old vynal is very brittle. Not surprising after 47 years of ultraviolet exposure.
Here's the vintage vynal I've purchased for the recovering.
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Since the old stuff is so brittle, and separates of the old foam readily.
I will remove it carefully and repair cracks and reglue the old foam where is not bonded to the metal structure. Then spray and recover.
What could possibly go wrong lol.
At least I can take It indoors and work infront of the log stove.
Here's the supplier I used
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Old vynal striped off as it was so brittle and separated quite easily.
Some surface rust which was cleaned up with white brushes, manual and powered.
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And treated all the surface rust left with Kurust.
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I hope to glue the slightly detached foam parts tomorrow. They've been treated and should be dry tomorrow.
These two holes got missed in the original factory
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My other half reuphoslters chairs and stuff as a hobby, so i am hoping she will do the retrimming on mine when it gets close to that point. This is quite a good guide on what she (hopefully) will be doing on mine;)
 
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The gluing down some detached foam padding.
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A big enough piece of vinyl fabric cut to do the job.
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The steel vinyl cover clips from underside, getting an anti rust bath in Kurust, in a bag.
 
Trimmed out a couple of areas of foam where is was below cracked vinyl and was turning to dust.
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Now to fill with expanding foam and cover with cling film, also fill some bits missed 48 years ago.
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An old thin of expanding foam partly used required some Landover lateral thinking, as it was completely blocked and had almost no pressure.
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Self tapping screw to the rescue (⁠•⁠‿⁠•⁠)
So I was able to fill the gaps, holes, cracks and other ragged bits of the foam, then wrap in cling film
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hopefully they will cure by tomorrow they can be sculpted, sanded and if needed have a little filler where needed.
 
That worked well,
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It's able to be shaped roughly with a very sharp spoon carving knife and sanded to a smooth finish
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It was even possible to remove the screw in the can and get more foam very slowly to touch ion a few other bits that are just a bit worse for wear, and refill where I was too enthusiastic shaping with the knife.
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The actual covering with glee and vynal will be a whole different ballgame lol
 
Thanks, but I'm concerned about getting a quality finish on the vynal.
It's flattened and had some more small bits further filled, so things are going in circles to achieve a good strong flat base.
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It's actually flatter than it looks in places, like these areas.
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I'm going to paint over the treated metal parts with some System 20 2k black paint, but with a brush. Hopefully it will give good protection for many years. The sun is doing a great job of preheating everything.
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