Series 3 109 Station Wagon, full ground up resto and 88 redo careless resto driving project

GSF 109 · Jan 16, 2021

Yeah, make sure you learn from my mistakes

Wagon Loon · Jan 16, 2021

Lol, the axle beam failed on my 750kg trailer last night, so I'll be getting some practice welding in a new one.
Yes, I would like to avoid stuff moving as I rework it. Thus the big bolt, and various extra bits will get temporarily welded on.
My front panel will need a similar repair as yours, so it will be interesting seeing how it works out for yours.

Wagon Loon · Jan 17, 2021

This trailor is about 40 years old, orignaly made with Metro wheels, which nobody makes new tyres for.

Not surprising it's rusted just like a Landy chassis lol.
Witth a full crate of logs it went on the way home.

So I need to make a new beam and fit it, before I can continue with the chassis.

It didn't take long to cut the old damaged one off.
This is going to get all the right tools out and being used, which the Landy will need anyway.

timvega · Jan 18, 2021

This might be a long journey for restoration but totally worth it. That's a good way to spend time especially this lockdown. Can't wait for the final results for this. Keep up the good work mate!

Wagon Loon · Jan 18, 2021

I wish I was at home, but I have to work full time; have been told I must be in...
But when I get home and walk the dog, should get a couple of hours in the garage for my sanity lol

GSF 109 · Jan 18, 2021

For sure - great way to switch off - think about Landy stuff. I’m sure you will have the axle fixed in no time

Wagon Loon · Jan 18, 2021

Thanks, got it all apart and have a perfect length of 5mm plate and loads of the 60 x 40 mm tube for the rebuild. It's given more than thirty years, and I don't know if you can see just how much rust had built up between the mounting plates.
Hope to cut the beam and plates tomorrow night, fingers crossed.

Wagon Loon · Jan 29, 2021

I cut the mounting plates with a tapered lenth which will run towards the center of the axle beam for extra support under where it has failed. When Biker Joe made it in the 80's, the weight is not dispersed to the edge of the beam, so some more strenth here may be a good thing and spread the load across more of the beam.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get this welded and straight.
Can't wait to get back on with the Landy chassis which is under the trailor

Wagon Loon · Jan 31, 2021

Finally with some very dry 6013 BOC rods, have got the 1964 Oxford welder out for action

/ATTACH]

It has all new leads and weighs in at about 80 + Kg's, because it's so full of really thick copper windings immersed in oil.

New v old

And the first weld

with the slag removed I'm happy. The plate is 5mm mild steel

Even though I'm having to make a new axle for my trailor and working on top of the Landy chassis, it's satisfying to be getting on with some proper metalwork.
Still I can't wait to be restoring the Landy chassis, because it's going yo be a huge job..

By heck that took all day lol

GSF 109 · Jan 31, 2021

Well done. Nice welds there....

Wagon Loon · Jan 31, 2021

Thanks, but credit must go to the auld Oxford welder. It's a real joy to use.

Wagon Loon · Feb 3, 2021

Using this Metalmorphosis which is designed for the chassis. But I must be doing something wrong, cos I started with quite clean shiny metal, and now it's all rusty under an acrylic skin ?
Has anyone used this stuff with better results, because I was hoping for a blue/black finish with a protective layer of acrylic which was transparent. Not this mess

If I can't get a cleaner no rust finish, it will have to go. Just glad to have another thing to try it on, other than the Landy Chassis.
Any tips welcome

auld duffer · Feb 3, 2021

I think the issue is starting with clean shiny metal. There rust converters are generally made to react with and neutralise rust , The chemical reaction between the rust converter and the ferrous oxide turns the rust to a neutral black finish. What has happened with your job there is that the acid base of the converter eaten into the surface on the clean metal opening it the atmosphere and causing it to rust . Its the same thing if you use brick acid / patio cleaner the rust will get neutralised while clean metal goes rusty .. The only thing you did wrong was to apply the solution to clean metal .. Bloody chemistry ..

A gallon of patio cleaner is a lot cheaper

Wagon Loon · Feb 3, 2021

Lol,
Seemed like a good idea at the time !

auld duffer · Feb 3, 2021

Its like using Etch primer over paint ..DOH ! every days a school day

Wagon Loon · Feb 3, 2021

Maybe I should just paint a little Tannic acid over any rust that doesn't clean off with the wire wheel

Wagon Loon · Feb 11, 2021

Tried some of this stuff and it works a treat

Even over the other stuff directly

Wow it's just so much better

GSF 109 · Feb 13, 2021

Same stuff I used on my bulkhead. Great stuff and works really well in my opinion.

Wagon Loon · Feb 18, 2021

So,
Both these trailer suspension units have been treated exactly the same way

With these respective products.

For me there is a clear winner so I will be throwing over £20 worth of one away which really hurts. My Scottish forefathers will turn in their grave ಠ︵ಠ
Here's a question...
Could I spray the inside of my Chassis with KURUST ?

I'm so impressed with how it has even blackened the nut and washers too.

auld duffer · Feb 20, 2021

If you can get it in there you can do it ..

Series 3 109 Station Wagon, full ground up resto and 88 redo careless resto driving project

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