Seeking advice regarding defender slave cylinder push rod/ clutch fork retaining clip

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Thanks for links.

I've found out 3912 rod and 5202 cylinder are for r380 box.

The 3502 cylinder and 5199 are for what I have, the lt77 gearbox.

Thanks for the input James and Marm this has led me to being confident to rebuild now by realising what's happened is the rod last night just dropped into bellhousing but I know I'm using right parts.
 
Snapped one of the clips on the plastic so its going in without plastic, and with pritstick dollop on the end of the rod ball, and a sleeve made from PVC 6mm tube slit down the middle and lubricated with sunflower oil.
Using the longer push rod 3912 so I have more sticking out of the bellhousing to play with.

If it drops into bellhousing again I will be off in a temper for some time!
 
Very interesting result, was bleeding and getting good pressure then ping. Now clutch is hard and won't move when push on it. Suspect rod has gone through fork.

Gearbox coming out tomorrow and will find out whats going on. Then order parts during week and fit next weekend.

Lying on wet ground in rain no fun, driving it to a friends farm in the morning to work within his sheds.

Defender initiation ceremony it is. Now I'll read up on removing the box how its done.
 
Failed to remove box today. Starter motor on 200 TDI no idea how to access. Rounded nut on turbo so that's a no go from above. From underneath?

Everything else done ready to drop gearbox, even slackened all bellhousimg bolts in sight.

I know you guys experienced will think this is hilarious but for other novices be warned its bloody hard without a ramp lying on back.

11 hours it took me and still starter to disconnect.
 
The starter motor on a 200tdi is notoriously hard to get at when a discovery engine is transplanted into a Defender but do you have to completely remove it? I've got a 300tdi and if I remember I only had to disconnect the wiring to pull the engine forward
 
Shanec said:
Failed to remove box today. Starter motor on 200 TDI no idea how to access. Rounded nut on turbo so that's a no go from above. From underneath?

Everything else done ready to drop gearbox, even slackened all bellhousimg bolts in sight.

I know you guys experienced will think this is hilarious but for other novices be warned its bloody hard without a ramp lying on back.

11 hours it took me and still starter to disconnect.
Click to expand...
you need olny undo the top outer nut and bolt you dont need to remove the starter itself or the other 2 nuts
 
Mines is a defender 200tdi not discovery transplant

Thanks James I would take the risk and feel with hands, but instead going to take exhaust manifold out so I can see what im doing this first time around.

Noticed manifold nuts very rusty so not sure what to do if I round those
 
When you recover the rod, put a cable tie around either side of the clip to hold it to the fork. That stops the clip popping out like yours did if you ever need to replace the slave in the future.
 
Don't feel foolish - you will get a lot of sympathy here. Just about every man jack on here will have had a similar experience working on their Landy. I found a new plastic clip held the actuation rod in place well on my LT95/109 V8.
 
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