Scott's Series 2A

scottonthefen · Jan 20, 2019

That's the same as my set (except mine is imperial, the linked one has metric dies). But it can't do bubble flares, right?

Thinking this over with a brew now, I'm not sure I can trust what was on there anyway, just because it had bubble flares on the old pipes doesn't mean that's right. I've got to start with the new wheel cylinders I've put on. If I look in the back I'll be able to see if it's expecting a bubble or double flare won't I, by the shape of the recess?

scottonthefen · Jan 20, 2019

Wait. Is bubble the same as single? This guy does what I thought was a single with the same kind of tool as I have - and it does look like what's on my old brake pipes..

Kev12 · Jan 20, 2019

scottonthefen said:
Wait. Is bubble the same as single? This guy does what I thought was a single with the same kind of tool as I have - and it does look like what's on my old brake pipes..

Yes

scottonthefen · Jan 26, 2019

Looking better. Imperial fittings now, and a definite double flare. The old one has a more pronounced 'edge' to it, but I expect that to be formed when the seal is made tightening into the cylinder. I've also checked in my new wheel cylinder threads and at the bottom is the 'volcano top' seat that expects double flares. Better @Kev12?

Kev12 · Jan 26, 2019

Looks good to me

yes it forms to fit when tightened up

scottonthefen · Mar 3, 2019

An hour here and there has finally resulted in some noticeable progress.

- Rear axle painted
- New paras from GB Springs fit
- Six new kunifer brake lines made up and installed
- New flexi-hoses all round
- Standard shocks painted + new rubbers. GB Springs advise they should be fine for road and light off-road so I'll see how it goes.

scottonthefen · Mar 14, 2019

Gave the old bean can a lick of paint and a sticker and fit new 1/4" pipes to the master cylinders.

Then I went to bleed the clutch and found the old slave cylinder bleed nipple impossible to budge. It started to round off before I even leant into it so I'm now looking to fit new master and slave cylinders for the clutch. Not what I thought I'd be doing next but that's been the story since I started!

scottonthefen · Mar 21, 2019

At last I've got the new fuel tank on after much song and dance with the filler hose!

Now I have the brake and clutch pedal boxes off for a tidy up ready for the new master cylinders which are sat on the shelf ready and waiting.

scottonthefen · Apr 13, 2019

New master cylinders and clutch slave fit today. New brake pipes right through too now just waiting for me to bleed them. That's going to be fun. I've heard stories.. : )

hef19898 · Apr 13, 2019

Oh, I curious to learn how it went! so nice job on the break pipes. Was it difficult to do? I'll have to do it sooner or later myself (on a Rangie from 82) and are wondering wether I do it myself or have it done. It's time against money, I guess!

Also, cudos for the work so far!

hef19898 · Apr 13, 2019

Oh, I curious to learn how it went! so nice job on the break pipes. Was it difficult to do? I'll have to do it sooner or later myself (on a Rangie from 82) and are wondering wether I do it myself or have it done. It's time against money, I guess!

Also, cudos for the work so far!

scottonthefen · Apr 13, 2019

Flaring the pipes is easy enough with some practice - and help and advice from people here!. Bending the pipes is also easy if you take some care and bend them around a large socket or length of pipe to avoid kinking them. I did three of the new pipes twice because I wasn't happy with the curves and I knew I'd be looking at them for years to come. : )

I chose to make up my own because working on my Land Rover is my hobby. If I needed new brake pipes in a hurry and didn't already have the pipe and tools I would just order them already made. I didn't save much money doing it myself, I just got to enjoy making them and seeing them fit.

hef19898 · Apr 13, 2019

Ah, yes the pleasure of doing things yourself! I still kind of regret to have handed the panel over to a body shop. I'm no hurry with the pipes as far as I can tell.

Anyway, thanks for the answer and encouragement!

scottonthefen · Apr 14, 2019

Bled the clutch today. I was expecting all sorts of trouble but it was ok. I think the 2A is easier than the 3 where the slave cylinder looks less accessible. I put fluid in the reservoir and watched it go down while I pumped the pedal and watched it come out in the one-man bleeder. Once the fluid started moving it started coming through really aerated so I kept topping up and pumping and got it running through solid with no air at all so I nipped it up and I now have a working clutch pedal. So far so good...

I also went round and did the brakes once over. I found two leaks which I think I've fixed by nipping things up - one of the nuts going into the four-way at the front, and the rear-axle flexi. I'll keep an eye on those, and I couldn't find any other leaks anywhere, these were quite obvious when pushing on the pedal. As the brake pipes are all new and I had those leaks I've got a spongy pedal at the moment but after two or three taps it's solid and not leaking anywhere I can see so I'll go around again when I get some time and that will be the first time it's had brakes since I took the old shoes and wheel cylinders off almost 18 months ago when I first brought it home.

Turning to the engine.. (getting excited now!) I also took the fuel pump off yesterday. Gauze looks ok but could do with a good clean. Have yet to check the diaphragm but will do. The sediment bowl had about an inch of ****e in the bottom so I don't know when that last had a clean..

It's been a good weekend for the 2A .. which is just as well because the kitchen tiles have arrived and I'll be "doing my duty" over Easter.. : )

scottonthefen · Apr 20, 2019

Went round three more times with my one-man bleed kit today but I've still got a spongy pedal that needs pumping to firm up. I've put so much fluid through I'm sure I'd have got any air out the brake pipes so I think it might be getting past the nipple threads despite a nit of PTFE round them. If it is air in the wheel cylinders a pressure bleeder should sort it or even the old approach of getting someone to help with pedal down, undo, bleed, tighten, pedal up, repeat.

Put the fuel hose cover back on, fit the sill stay on the new rear tub outrigger I fit last year. Then I took all the plugs out and set their gaps right and had a look in the dizzy - it was a bit of a mess in there to be honest so I've ordered points, condenser, and a new cap as they were all cheap enough. Also ordered a fuel pump refurb kit. The diaphragm in mine is split and the gauze is filthed up. As the pump looks to be original and says MADE IN ENGLAND on top I'd rather fit new seals gauze and diaphragm than order a cheap replacement. Nothing interesting to photo lately. Getting close to putting some petrol in and turning her over now.

scottonthefen · May 13, 2019

I've got a good brake pedal now. Long story short, a pressure bleeder and bar type flexi hose clamps worked in the end. So that's new brake parts and pipes all round and finished with that.

I fit the new spark plugs, HT leads, and dizzy cap. I've got to change the points but I'm having trouble getting the screw out the base plate as the PO messed up the head and left it in place. Also fuel pump refurb'd and back on with new diaphragm, gaskets, and seals. Feed pipe connected up to the new tank at last so getting very close to starting her up - if I could just budge that bloody screw in the dizzy!

scottonthefen · May 23, 2019

Finished the fuel pump rebuild and fit the new points. I had to remove the whole base plate and put it in a vice so I could use a screw extractor to get the set screw out. At least I got to give it all a good clean up at the same time. (I got new screws from a mini spares place that sell Lucas 25D screw sets for about £1.50 - recommended in another thread).

Then I put some fresh petrol in the new tank, primed it at the fuel pump, choke out.. and she started first time! I'm really happy as it's two years in August since I brought it home and it's been in bits for all that time. Hopes for a first road run this year are high.

scottonthefen · May 23, 2019

Just had the 2A on axle stands with the wheels off for a "test drive" as the clutch and gearbox are unknown state of repair so far. 1-4 in low and high and 2wd and 4wd seem to work and the overdrive doesn't screech in 3rd or 4th. Reverse is noisy no matter what the range or drive is, it works but makes a high-pitched grating. I don't think I will be able to identify some other possible problems it might have until I can drive it properly under load but it's good to know nothing's completely broken. Decision now is.. deal with that reverse gear while the floor and seat base are already out and the gearbox is accessible..

?

scottonthefen · May 29, 2019

I'm going to leave the noisy reverse gear for now. It's been two years and I really want to use her a bit this summer and take her to a couple of shows. I'm telling myself that actually driving her will show up any running gear issues I'm not going to find any other way.. but driving her back in the garage instead of pushing her sealed the deal - I can't wait to get her back together now and drive her.

In true bank holiday fashion I was laying a patio.. but did find time to change the oil in the gearbox and transfer case. Sieved out some minor metal but nothing major. Old oil was green in colour(?) and cloudy so am glad I've changed it. Overdrive was dry and found the drain plug was loose and had a load of black sealant around it. I've ordered another one by part number which looks nothing like the one that's currently in it so fingers crossed the replacement fits correctly and holds oil. The current one does up so tight and then skips loose again..

Kelmarsh is Plan A end of July, Leafers is Plan B end of August. Maybe I'll even make it to both.!? Yeah yeah we'll see..

Things to do before taking her on the road:
- seats and frames
- 5th and final outrigger
- go over everything with a torque bar
- settle/pre-load those new rear springs and torque up correctly
- coolant flush/change
- washers/wipers/lights/etc.
- new tyres

scottonthefen · Jun 22, 2019

I've started too many jobs lately and really need to finish them before starting anything else.

I've pulled out some old wiring I don't want or need and can do better later on; relays and long cable strung along the side of the chassis, glad to be shot of it, all for one work light and some spots on the front. I've fit some new indicators and a brake light switch and just have a couple of small wiring jobs to finish the new rear plate light, wiper and panel lights switches. Not much point photographing wiring work in progress..

New wiper motor is shiny though, cleaned and greased all the drive cable and the the two wiper wheels too. I didn't know you had to transplant the insides from the old motor into the new ones so I'm glad I didn't bin the shot one before I opened up the new one for a look and found it empty.

5th and final outrigger is in the rear tub waiting for a good day and no DIY being asked of by my better half. When that's on I can finish cleaning and painting under the seat base and get that bolted back in.

I've got 5 out of the 6 used black series vinyl seats I need. Lurking eBay for one more outer base with 8 ribs..

Fitted a new thermostat.. cleaned up the housing + new gaskets. New hoses ready to go on. Rad is off as I need to do the front crank seal and am going to tap holes for the mud plate so it's easier to change in future while everything's off and easy to get at. Don't stand out much does it?

When the fan's shiny and the timing cover's gone back on painted, and one day maybe the block, it'll all blend in honest.

Need a new water pump. Probably order that next week with timing cover gaskets and so on.

The new drain plug for my Fairey O/D doesn't fit, someone's bodged it up. Current plan is to fix it with a helicoil. One thing at a time..

Scott's Series 2A

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