S3 109 Safari project......

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I need to create more strength in front of the crossmember to resist torsional loads. I will experiment and try some different configurations to see what works best….
 
I thought I would use some 2” box section and but it up against the 5mm plate already welded on. Seems to work quite well and certainly is strong. I have welded the top plate to the box section at the rear which will provide support for the radiator. I will weld in some gussets to give a little more rigidity internally and externally. Won’t win any beauty or design awards but it doesn’t need to….
Getting there with the front end now :)
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That's looking plenty strong.
Will you provide drain holes to allow the insides to dry out and a means to inject waxoil or the like ?
 
Wagon Loon said:
That's looking plenty strong.
Will you provide drain holes to allow the insides to dry out and a means to inject waxoil or the like ?
Click to expand...
Yes, good point - I will drill some holes and put some plastic plugs in ready for wax injection. I will do the whole chassis with Dinitrol internally, then externally once it’s all built up.
I still have to finish the front crossmember, but when that’s done I will make some spacers for the engine mounts to get it high enough to lift the turbo clear of the chassis. :)
 
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Also finished off the front crossmember, fully welding it top and bottom, so that’s pretty much it done. Some corroless primer finished it off for today. Next week I will paint it black.
 
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Moved onto the engine mounts as I need to lift the engine between 5 and 10mm for the turbo to clear the chassis. Had some galvanised plate which was ideal and cut and drilled them to match the approximate dimensions of the original engine mounts. I’m using defender mounts, so hopefully the combination will work :rolleyes:..
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Those tyres look awesome.
I think tubed tyres can be better off road, if your running very low pressure on challenging terrain, keeps the tyres from getting pushed in to the wheel centre, and loosing all the air.
Will you have the gearbox to match your new engine too? Maybe even a 5 speed box.
 
Thanks. The tyres, I think were widely used on LWB Defenders back in the day. I seem to remember them fareing well during the tyre tests of the day in Off Road and Four Wheel Drive! They were so popular that you can still by them from Avon now. Must be a rarity as they have ‘made in England’ on them. Can’t be many tyres made in the uk any more?
 
Started stripping the surface rust and paint from the bulkhead prior to painting. I pulled out all the plastic nut serts, grommets and got stuck in with a linishing disk. This did a good job of getting it down to bare metal, but took me nearly 2 hours solid….:D I can still see a couple of minor weld repairs are required, but that won’t take long. There are also some areas with tiny pits with surface corrosion, which will need to be tackled before priming. Open to some suggestions on the best treatment. I have used the hammerite anti rust treatment before, but there may be better?
:)
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I've been experimenting a bit and have so far found the Hammerite kurust to be very good if used correctly and not allowed to become contaminated .
It's been the only protection on some bare metal I've left outside for months, which has with a second application remained untouched by any rust.
 
Thanks Wagon Loon. Yes, Kurust is what I have been using up to now, but I’ve been struggling to find it locally. Toolstation have got the Rustins rust converter which has some good reviews. I will see how long my Kurust lasts for, although I don’t think it will do a full bulkhead! Might give Rustins a go if I can’t get Kurust.
 
Thanks both, I have managed to get it through Halfords. Didn’t realise they sold it to be honest….
All I need to do now is, weld up a couple more bits, apply the Kurust, do a bit of filling and get it off to the painters! Would like to get it installed on the chassis this year if I can. :)
 
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