Rot & Rock sliders

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Jason2

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,001
Location
Poitou Charentes-France
As I keep ripping my steps off (110sw off roading) and have also have a dose of rot I'm going to rip the checker plate off,chop the rot out and make some rock sliders like this fine chap http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/home-made-rocksliders-57629.html except that I'm also going to put some kind of round bar on that can be used as a step and add another tube for the high lift!

All four bottom door seals are well rotten and the "U" that it fix's to, I've ordered the front door seals but can't find a ref for the "u" that runs under the floor behind the sill ???

Can you buy it?

Looks a bastid to change?????

Have I missed anything??


Cheers Jason
 

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Mmmm ... looks exactly the same as my 93 Defender 90. I was thinking of ripping the checker plate sills off and replacing with some jackable sills/rock sliders! ... Keep us posted on what you choose to do fella.
 
I got some heavy duty bar lying around, with my welding skills getting better n better as the years go by, i'm looking to do the same.
 
Jason2, is this the part your after?

floor.jpg
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If so, Ill get you the part number. But they are about £400 each:eek:

Thanks for that Leadfarmer but at £400 a side :eek: that's not going to happen. Back to plan B , find some equivelant "U" section, chop out and weld.

I will keep you informed as and when.

woods 767, I'm going to put another tube in the front of the rocksliders so I can stick a highlift in with a adaptor jobby to lift the vehicle, where I don't know yet.

I think that the welder might be out for a bit as the front outriggers are a bit dodgy too :rolleyes:
 
With the warmer weather I eventualy got mi arze in gear and started work on mi rock sliders.
Was not happy with things down staires :(

Chequer plate off,crappo sills off, rust off, new bottom door seals

Started off wi some 80x40 x4mm thick box section held in place with clamps to get a feel of things.

Used old sill for correct lengh and to mark some roundy bits on


Had to chop a bit out

To clear that ! Wanted a nice tight fit you know ;)

Two holes front and rear to stick mi high lift in.

Not happy about that fit up to the wheel arch though :(

So out with t' angle grinder

Bend un weld
 
Closed ends off to stop ****e getting in, turn yeh screen on it's side to see this one ;D


Them's not just holes for the "High Lift" welded some tube in un all, pic with high lift adaptor in t' hole.

Kept the bit that I cut out un welded it back in upside down, again to stop ****e getting in.



Tack welded it all up first in situ (4 plates onto 3 out riggers) then took it off and welded it up reight proper! like!


 
Then I made some of these "sneaky rascals" for the tree slider bit's did'nt want them sticking out to much for obviouse reasons so they are going to be a crap step but hey how !!

Job done :) :)


All being well they will be off to be galvanised next week and then I'm gunna spray em black.
 
You can fabricate most of the parts you require to replace the B / C post.
I got the metal cut to size at the metal supermarket, welded together and replace all of the rot, easy enough but it is time consuming. I have repaired a few now so it is getting a lot easier. I YRM metal soloutins are doing replacement parts to weld in

Defender
 
just finished mine rock sliders were easy to do just dirty work my inner cills were well rotted but found an almost new set in the scrap yard so had them galvanized at same time as sliders .mines a 90 but understand 110 parts are harder to get but good luck wiyh it keep picks comeing
 

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