Replacing the centre silencer box TD5?

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I would not recommend fiddling with the adjustment on the wastegate actuator. It’s not like on old vehicles where you can wind up the boost by altering the wastegate rod.

Your best bet would be a remap, try Dynachip he comes to you and charges less than most.

Mine smoked on the full fat remap, in fact l originally wasted £460 on an Alive remap that just produced more white smoke than as SAS smoke grenade.
The Alive guy never returned my calls and l never got any money back. I wouldn’t recommend the Alive guy in Manchester

The Dynachip guy charged £250 which included calling out to my house, he had to turn down the remap a couple of times to stop my 110 from smoking (on full throttle at low RPM)
But my 110 is still transformed, it will pull 70mph in fifth going over the M62 where before it was at 50-55mph
 
I have a 54 plate TD5 so MOT wise while still being honest means CAT stays, does anyone know if the exhaust note is any better if I just remove centre silencer?
 
I have a 2001 D2 Auto and I received a straight pipe replacement for centre silencer.
I wonder if anyone else have this fitted and if people do like the sound in result?

I know the sound from a TD5 Defender, with manual gearbox and remap, but I believe on the D2, without remap and automatic gearbox will be different.

thoughts?
 
Remaps dont change exhaust sound. Itll sound like a TD5 with a straight pipe

I would not recommend fiddling with the adjustment on the wastegate actuator. It’s not like on old vehicles where you can wind up the boost by altering the wastegate rod.

Your best bet would be a remap, try Dynachip he comes to you and charges less than most.

Mine smoked on the full fat remap, in fact l originally wasted £460 on an Alive remap that just produced more white smoke than as SAS smoke grenade.
The Alive guy never returned my calls and l never got any money back. I wouldn’t recommend the Alive guy in Manchester

The Dynachip guy charged £250 which included calling out to my house, he had to turn down the remap a couple of times to stop my 110 from smoking (on full throttle at low RPM)
But my 110 is still transformed, it will pull 70mph in fifth going over the M62 where before it was at 50-55mph

That is wrong. You can adjust boost via wastegate adjustment.
 
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I would not recommend fiddling with the adjustment on the wastegate actuator. It’s not like on old vehicles where you can wind up the boost by altering the wastegate rod.

Strange , as Mike from Dynachip did recommend I took the time to check the max boost pressure on the nanocom and wind the actuator up until I could get the max it would take at iirc 240 showing in the screen. On a TD5 D2.

Cheers
 
Remaps dont change exhaust sound. Itll sound like a TD5 with a straight pipe
Any difference between auto/manual?

Strange , as Mike from Dynachip did recommend I took the time to check the max boost pressure on the nanocom and wind the actuator up until I could get the max it would take at iirc 240 showing in the screen. On a TD5 D2.
Cheers

I can confirm you can get 240kpa for boost pressure, but it goes in limp mode just after reaching and crossing the 235kpa level
 
Strange , as Mike from Dynachip did recommend I took the time to check the max boost pressure on the nanocom and wind the actuator up until I could get the max it would take at iirc 240 showing in the screen. On a TD5 D2.

Cheers

That’s not fiddling with the wastegate it’s adjusting it properly with the correct equipment after the engine had been modified.

There’s a difference between that, and adjusting it by trial and error to “see what difference it makes”
 
That’s not fiddling with the wastegate it’s adjusting it properly with the correct equipment after the engine had been modified.

There’s a difference between that, and adjusting it by trial and error to “see what difference it makes”

You can do exactly that. Just wind it out till it hits limp mode (roughly 18psi) then wind it back in. No harm in doing that.

Any difference between auto/manual?

Not really no. Just how hard you can drive it really.

I can confirm you can get 240kpa for boost pressure, but it goes in limp mode just after reaching and crossing the 235kpa level

Roughly 18psi before the boost limit needs to be raised within the ECU to prevent limp mode.
 
So to increase the boost you wind the wastegate rod out, that is more threads showing on the adjustment rod?

l was always told that winding the rod in increased the boost, that is less threads showing.
 
So to increase the boost you wind the wastegate rod out, that is more threads showing on the adjustment rod?

l was always told that winding the rod in increased the boost, that is less threads showing.

Yes, less threads showing gives more boost.

Also I got 110, decat, straight through middle box. Noise is just right for me, I take the family on hols in it too, and don’t think it’s that much extra noise, but I do love to hear the whistling turbo. I have got disco tb though which helps.
 
Discos sound lovely with decat and center box delete. Defenders sound great but without a bulkhead or lots of sound deadening it can get a little tedious on a long trip I suppose.

I've had a 110dcpu and then 110 2 door with a bulkhead in it so noise was fine but did get abit louder when took the bulkhead out of the 110 before I sold it although sounds brilliant.

I've a 130 now and binned the cat and egr and made a big difference again in response but can't wait to get rid of the center box. Also have a CR turbos VNT and TD5inside map so it goes like a scalded cat and makea a lovely noise when turbo is spooling up :)
 
On my old 200Tdi 90 I put in a straight through st/st center pipe, didn't make much difference noise wise but a slight increase in power. Now I've more or less rebuilt it and used a load of sound deadening I can hear it, and it has a real drone at 80/90 Kph (which is my normal speed) so just bought a standard silenced ctr tube. :(:(
 
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