Replacing body cappings question

Hi chaps.

I'm about to embark on replacing the body cappings on my TDi300 90 CSW.

Wanting to make as simple a job as possible so wondered if I can get away with not having to undo the roof/windscreen fastenings & seal and just raising the rear body from by the back door and kind of lever the roof up at an angle?

Will I be able to get enough access to drill the rivets out and scape off the old cappings & then have enough room to rivet the new ones on? Will I sprain or put too much pressure on the front edge in the process?

Have seen this asked before on previous threads but none seem to give a definitive answer.

Also, is there a OEM seal needed on top of the capping? Think I need Tiger Seal between the tub & capping but can I use this on top too (between the capping and the roof) or do I need to use a properly manufactured seal?


Many thanks in advance.

Cheers, Hilton

When I did mine I just removed the side panel rather than the whole roof. But I had a lot more stripped off as well as I was repainting at the same time.


Theoretically if you have proper windscreen hinges you can lift the whole roof and sides up but to be able to get cleaance to drill out the front rivers it would need to be nearly vertical.

There is a proper seal between the side and the tub. I cannot remember the part number but I replaced mine when it was out. It is just a thick rubberise strip. It is not a fancy shape or mounded at all.

I would also reconsider using togerseal between the tub and the capping. There is something similar there originally but it made removing them a very difficult job and ended up making a mess of the top edge of the tub. The only way I could get them to separate ws a sharp chisel under the capping hammered along the full length using a 6ft bar to keep access. Would be better to use something less sticky but still waterproof if you ever plan on removing them a second time.

Hilton Green said:

Hi chaps.

I'm about to embark on replacing the body cappings on my TDi300 90 CSW.

Wanting to make as simple a job as possible so wondered if I can get away with not having to undo the roof/windscreen fastenings & seal and just raising the rear body from by the back door and kind of lever the roof up at an angle?

Will I be able to get enough access to drill the rivets out and scape off the old cappings & then have enough room to rivet the new ones on? Will I sprain or put too much pressure on the front edge in the process?

Have seen this asked before on previous threads but none seem to give a definitive answer.

Also, is there a OEM seal needed on top of the capping? Think I need Tiger Seal between the tub & capping but can I use this on top too (between the capping and the roof) or do I need to use a properly manufactured seal?


Many thanks in advance.

Cheers, Hilton

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I would say no. The inner side of the capping is quite deep where your rear seats bolt to it. Levering the roof up will put an enormous strain on the top of your bulkhead. At the age it is the top of your bulkhead will almost certainly buckle. I would at least do what dag019 did above. However, that only saves you about 8 bolts across the top of the windscreen and finding somewhere to put your roof.
You don't need Tiger seal, or similar, between the cappings. There's a thin rubber foam strip in there, so you could replace that.
As dag019 said, there are proper seals to go between the top of the cappings and the side panels.

I agree with AI203. I completely removed the roof and side panels in one to do my cappings, It wasn't to bad a job, and it was on a 110 csw. I got the proper tub to side panel seals. And the windscreen panel to roof seals.
I also sealed between the side panels and cappings, and roof to windscreen panel with black semi hardening sealant.
The worst part was was separating the roof from windscreen panel on strip down. I had to tilt the rear of the roof up and slide a craft knife blade between the screen panel and roof and cut the sealent in a sawing action,

dag019 said:

View attachment 130278

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I like your long range fuel tanks, structural too!

Al2O3 said:

I would at least do what dag019 did above. However, that only saves you about 8 bolts across the top of the windscreen and finding somewhere to put your roof.

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It also saved me from disconecting all of the wiring for the rear work lights, cb, speakers, and rear washer hose. This was the deciding factor for me not to take the roof off.